Good luck man! That's definitely the way to know your car inside out. Kepp us posted, cause i would like to see how you tackle problems, as i'm planning on doing and engine build myself some time in the future. Mainly because nobody really does that kind of **** out in Spain.

 

hey so any updates on this? Just wondering on your progress...

 

[QUOTE=Acree]Goto home depot and get one of the "grabber thingies." Sorry I don't know a better term for it, but they are about 5 bucks. They look like a 3 foot long flexible, skinny metal thing with claws on one end and a push button on the other end. This thing has saved me many times! You use it to grab bolts/tools and whatever else you might drop in misc places. QUOTE]

The "Arnold" tool.

Good luck man! I have done rebuilds on gm engines but the VQ I dont think I have what it takes to tear in to it. When I blow my motor then I will have nothing to lose and will not think twice about it. Hopefully by then there might be a nice write up on it with pictures. Cough!

 

wow
good luck man.

 

I need some assistance ...

I just realized I have skipped this step during disassembly...

Can someone explain what the reason for this step is and what this means that I missed it??? I have the car down to the heads right now.

 

So that the motor is locked at #1 Top Dead Center. You could just index the motor and not worry about it. Scribe a mark on the flywheel/flexplate and a mark on the bellhousing inline with each other of course.

 

holy heck man, your still on dissassemble!! lol
don't forget to check your ring end gaps, and make sure the guy doing your boring and honing knows the type of pistons going into the block. both your pistons and rods will be really close to balanced out of the box (due to the high quality) but ofcourse you will need a rebalance on the crank.
make sure and mark every single last piece of the valvetrain that comes off, including lifter bucket location. it will be easier to start the process if you start with the factory settings as it will be taking up alot of the difference in seat height, which is the main reason the lifter buckets are different heights. it is a time consumming process and will prolly take ya a few hours to get perfect and time to wait for parts you will need to order. or, you may get lucky and have them all end up with proper tolerance.
you already went through and did the cams yourself, so setting up the chain is old news to ya. the rest is, well, just a motor, hahah.

good luck!

 

I thought you were going with a stroker setup?

 

I wanted to but supposedly Injected Performance is working hand and hand with Crower and hasnt yet gave the go ahead to Crower until its perfect..

Crower said it was going to be released this month and I would be one of the first to recieve.. But now Iam being told two months So I ditched that idea and called AEBS for their stroker... They reffered me to SGP for more information. SGP is one of three shops the only places that can do strokers for AEBS. AEBS has their own shop but they are booked for 1 year and have YET to complete a perfect stroked/tuned 350Z. That being quoted from one of their customers... So therfore no stroker for me until I move to Kentucky or out west.

 

Bore brushes are a good idea as well...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...8&s=automotive

 

Just in case you did not know, GT Motorsports in California makes a stroker kit and I understand it has been used a few times. Contact Sam. I am sure he could give you more information on that if you are interested.
--B

 

I just scanned this ---I take it for granted ur going to bore ---If so ,, Get a Bore plate ---I believe Forged Internals rents them

For any that dont know ----A bore plate is machined from HEAVY material and simulates ur head being in place---Steel,Aluminum etc is very elastic so what bore specs u get before assembly will change once u install and torque the heads. The plate makes the Boring Bar "Think " the heads are in place there by giving u a True,Square,Perfectly Round Bore

 

Anything new? I'm about to start my own build and am searching for all the tips and tricks i can before i dive in head first.

 

Well I got the motor down to the block and crank.. and sent it away to get bored Updates will be soon Iam going to start a new thread when I get the block/crank back.

One thing though... The Tomies are WAYYY out of wack.. The lash height is almost double then it should be on 5 of the intake/exhaust valves ...So I bought a valve puller for $150 from napa that will work and $200 worth the spacers to get the stack/lash height correct.

Iam going to start new threads for all of them once I get all my shiet back so then everyone can use them for reference.

 

sorry but any updates?

 

just a few suggestions:
Ditch the cometic HGs in favor of the HKS stopper type HGs

upgrade to L19 ARP headstuds or GTM ARP 2000 studs

Pauters are not worth twice the money of the eagle rods. Save yourself some $ and run the eagles. So many other things on the motor will give out before eagle rods will ever begin to be an issue

Your listed HG/HS combo is only slightly better than the OEM setup and will give you issues down the road

 

well it has been almost a year so hopefully he is done by now.

 

Wow... Revived thread from almost a year ago. Any status update?

 

The motor is built and still running to this day with 4000 miles on it.

I learned a ton but didnt really go to do what I wanted. In order to do everything correctly you still need to have a machine shop assemble all the parts into a short block.

I saved a ton of money by purchasing the parts myself and having the machine shop assemble it. The total cost of balancing and assembling it added up to around $800. In total I spent around $2200 for everything including parts.

 

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