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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 06:11 AM
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Default Building My Own Motor

I am going to start building my own motor this coming month. I am purchasing a long block and putting in forged internals. I will be doing a full write up with what step Iam on and day to day process. I already have Greddy twins upgraded to TG20's. Heres is my setup Iam building:

Doing myself:
Cometic Head gasket
Wiseco 9:1 Pistons
ARP Head studs
Pauter Rods
ARP Rod bolts
Tomei Cams
Polishing Front/Rear Timing Covers, Alternator, Plenum, ect, ect...
Installing Cosworth Heads


Sending to a shop to do:
Crank balanced
UTEC (Planning on having UTEC Tuned by MRC)

Hoping to get this finished by September. I ll keep you guys updated on the progress.

Last edited by EM-EFER; Jun 27, 2006 at 11:46 AM.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 06:13 AM
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Definitely subscribing to this!!! Good luck with the build!
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 07:58 AM
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if ya need a hand, give me a call. are you in albany n.y. or albany oregon?
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 08:02 AM
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Thanks Scott.. I appreciate the offer and hope I wont run into anything that will really snag me]

Oh yah.. iam in Albany NY

Last edited by EM-EFER; Jun 27, 2006 at 08:38 AM.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 08:06 AM
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Ok this may be a retarded question but: What all tools is needed to actually put together your motor yourself? I understand that balancing will have to be done elsewhere unless you have all that...boring also. How much would you actually save by building it yourself?
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 08:37 AM
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Originally Posted by HoldThisForMe
Ok this may be a retarded question but: What all tools is needed to actually put together your motor yourself? I understand that balancing will have to be done elsewhere unless you have all that...boring also. How much would you actually save by building it yourself?
I will probably save about $500// But it's more about getting more experience on the VQ.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 08:48 AM
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Labor to swap a motor and take out and reinstall your turbo kit is $2000-2500, your saving a ton of money....do you know how to adjust valves? You'll need to since your doing cams. BTW which Tomeis you going with? No valvetrain?
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 08:59 AM
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You might want to use the L19 bolts instead of the regular arp's. I think Shariff (forgedinternals.com) has them in stock.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by EM-EFER
I am going to start building my own motor this coming month. I am purchasing a long block and putting in forged internals. I will be doing a full write up with what step Iam on and day to day process. I already have Greddy twins upgraded to TG20's.
I really want to do the same thing myself, but I won't have the facilities (or the *****) necessary to do it. I'm hoping to plan an engine building vacation and do the build alongside an experienced VQ builder someplace so I can get the experience without risking ten thousand dollars in parts on a moment of ignorance. Just have to find one who doesn't mind having a tool-fetcher who asks all sorts of stupid questions!

-E
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 10:15 AM
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So does that mean you are going with stock bore pistons rather that getting the block machined and using .020 overbore pistons? If so, is the long block new or used? And I agree Alberto, how are you planning on doing the valve adjustment yourself? Good luck with everything though man, I plan on doing my build early 2007, but will be having to pay someone to machine my block and adjust my valvetrain.

One last question (sorry for all the questions), where is everyone getting their 18G's upgraded to 20G's and how much are you paying?
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Alberto
Labor to swap a motor and take out and reinstall your turbo kit is $2000-2500, your saving a ton of money....do you know how to adjust valves? You'll need to since your doing cams. BTW which Tomeis you going with? No valvetrain?
I was giving him the estimate on how much Iam saving by building the motor myself.

I have have already ordered a valve removal tool from napa so I can set the proper gap. I am geting TOMEI 268's. Ferrera valves are going to be setup with the cosworth heads.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 11:18 AM
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Originally Posted by 002-M-P
So does that mean you are going with stock bore pistons rather that getting the block machined and using .020 overbore pistons? If so, is the long block new or used? And I agree Alberto, how are you planning on doing the valve adjustment yourself? Good luck with everything though man, I plan on doing my build early 2007, but will be having to pay someone to machine my block and adjust my valvetrain.

One last question (sorry for all the questions), where is everyone getting their 18G's upgraded to 20G's and how much are you paying?
The block is used so Iam going to have to overbore.. (which a machine shop will have to do). I ordered all the tools for adjusting the valve train through napa.com.

Here is the link to upgrade your 16's to 20's
http://sgpracing-store.stores.yahoo....tdo6upfor.html
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 11:26 AM
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 01:59 PM
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Good Luck!!! AND definitely take pics / keep us posted.

Little small things to consider:
-Don't know your tool inventory but invest in a decent torque wrench. If you already have one I'd suggest getting it calibrated. Shouldn't cost that much.

-Red Line assembly lube. This stuff is kinda pricey but a lot goes a long way. Also stands up real well on first crank up.

-Plastigauge for measuring bearing clearances.

-Teliscopic magnet. Very inexpensive but can be a lifesaver.

-Assorted files for chamfering

-Good set off taps to chase threads

-Aerosol window cleaner

-Muriatic acid and distilled water for flushing water passages if you don't get the block hot tanked.
EDIT: works well on cast iron but you may need to watch the dillution ratio with aluminum.

Anyway, again good luck!!

Last edited by atlsupdawg#2; Jun 27, 2006 at 02:02 PM.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 02:06 PM
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good luck..def need a good torque wrench.everything has to be torque to spec..but im sure you already knew that.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 03:14 PM
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Subscribing!!! Good look with your build and take tons of pictures!!!
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by atlsupdawg#2
Good Luck!!! AND definitely take pics / keep us posted.

Little small things to consider:
-Don't know your tool inventory but invest in a decent torque wrench. If you already have one I'd suggest getting it calibrated. Shouldn't cost that much.
$300.00 Snap-on torque wrech :CHECK

-Red Line assembly lube. This stuff is kinda pricey but a lot goes a long way. Also stands up real well on first crank up. :I HAVE 16 OUNCES LEFT :CHECK!

-Plastigauge for measuring bearing clearances. NEED TO GET ONE OF THOSE

-Teliscopic magnet. Very inexpensive but can be a lifesaver. I VE GOT THREE THAT GO ON 90 DEGREE ANGLES UPSIDE DOWN LEFT RIGHT LEFT RIGHT B,A START

-Assorted files for chamfering :CHECK!

-Good set off taps to chase threads :EVEN GOT M6 HELICOILS for 10MM CHECK!

-Aerosol window cleaner: INVISIBLE GLASS CHECK!

-Muriatic acid and distilled water for flushing water passages if you don't get the block hot tanked.
EDIT: works well on cast iron but you may need to watch the dillution ratio with aluminum. hmmmm Need to get some of that

Anyway, again good luck!!
Thanks for the TIPS!
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 03:38 PM
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Goto home depot and get one of the "grabber thingies." Sorry I don't know a better term for it, but they are about 5 bucks. They look like a 3 foot long flexible, skinny metal thing with claws on one end and a push button on the other end. This thing has saved me many times! You use it to grab bolts/tools and whatever else you might drop in misc places.

-Acree

::EDIT::
Oh yeah, GOOD LUCK!
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 07:04 PM
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subscribing.. how about recording a video for us to watch instead of pictures... like a DIY video.
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Old Jun 27, 2006 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by accordfreak
subscribing.. how about recording a video for us to watch instead of pictures... like a DIY video.
Thats a possibility---- Let me see if I can get a tri-pod
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