Bill - I guess there's something to keeping balance in the world!! John & I have decided to go the opposite direction ( for now ) as U, Bill.
Now that we're sending the A/T off to Speed Force for their upgrades ( said to handle 1000 hp ) we're considering going with a direct port nitrous setup on my Kinetix SSV since we're sure that the motor will handle that power range on top of the 650 or so hp that John is certain we can make on the T-trim. Still haven't decided on the cogged belt system ( I'm for it but John's not sure that slippage will be an issue UNTIL the belt stretches ). Any input ya wanna throw us about this?
John's still planning on overdriving the Vortech & using the HKS wastegate to bleed off the boost but that technique should lower the useable powerband rpm ( in theory, at least )
As for the timeframe - who knows!! Heck, it's been so long since I've even seen my G that I'm ready to have John push me down his driveway!!

Gene

 

I dont want to push it any longer [well for now ] . I wanna drive the car . The cog set up didnt work well on DSports car and Im going to try to pay off the car before I do any thing major to it . I plan on adding a EMU this winter....next spring ....and I'll take the boost back up to 13psi then . when a cog system is refined I'll think about it then . Good luck on your project...Bill

 

Good call. I say let them do the R&D and enjoy it for a while.

 

I went and test drove the car today . He got the Vortech bypass BOV . to work as a wastegate and a BOV . We will have to datalog a run or 2 to see if it is building boost faster with the smaller pulley . I have a hunch it isnt because the BOV is bleeding off some of the boost as it builds to 10psi . It for sure needs to be tuned as it doesnt feel as powerful as before on the bottom end . He has the W/M injection coming on at 2psi and the A/F was in the low 11's . It still just has the washer fluid in it . We will find out more in the morning when we do some logging . Will report on it tomorrow .

 

having the W/I come on at 2psi seems too soon to me. I'd probably do it more like 3-4 psi. Otherwise with a vortech, the WI kit is going to be spraying almost all the time - err well then again I have a manual with 3.9 gears and a light clutch so I might drive at higher rpms

 

Yah...2psi seemed low to me too . I thought they would set it up to come on at 5psi . Right now we are more interested in getting the boost building and bleeding off right first .

 

I went and logged a few runs this morning with the shop owner . Mike was dead on with his idea . Using the BOV as a wastegate and BOV worked . With the 2.87 pulley on, we made .5 more boost [ 5.5 ] by the time I get to WOT and make 10psi 400rpms sooner [4800rpm ] Boost gets to 10.5psi and then tappers off to around 9psi at redline . With just the washer fluid in the W/M injection kit . A/F is below [12 to 1] when I get to WOT and gets rich as hell [ low 10's ] to redline . He is going to drain it today and I'll take him up some 50/50 mix of methenol and distilled water . We plan on tuning it next week some time . I think I may have him adjust it to 12psi and let it tapper after that and adjust the W/M not to came on till 5 or 6psi

 

nice!

 

sweet... Bill been a long time coming I gave up on my vortech I spent hundreds in belts =( So I am headed over to Japtrix to get my twins tuned. Lets get her tuned and see what numbers you get!!! Show some pics too!!!

Ryan

 

how's the transition from when the wastegate opens and how much more power are you making up top than before, or is it roughly the same?

Sounds like you're making quite a bit more power in the midrange now

 

As of now , being so dam rich , it doesnt feel as strong as before down low or midrange . got to get the W/M adjusted to come on later than 2psi.

ANd the transition is smooth . The boost doesnt drop off badly . It tappers off slowly

 

Seems funny i remember someone else speaking of using a BOV as the wastegate idea and it seems like everyone told me it would not work. BOOGER glad your guy thought of it anyhow now that you got it on and it works i will tell you that if you use an electronic boost controller you can maximize the reaction time with the gain controls of the profec spec 2 as well the way it bleeds off the boost. you can in fact make it behave just like a wastegate as thats really all the BOV such as the greddy type s and the vortech is just BOV used on the intake side instead of the exhaust side and you can control the as such. please send me some pics of your setup as you have my FULL ATTENTION. thanks

 

so you are saying you can infact use a bov to function as a wastegate and a bov at the same time? I see how it could be used as a wastegate by using different springs, but how could that be controlled w/ a boost controller and still be a functional bov?

Just wondering so i don't pi$$ away money on a wastegate. I already have the greddy type s bov and greddy profec e-01 boost controller.

 

The vacuum line going to the top of the BOV has a check valve on it . That allows the BOV to see vacuum but not boost . Another vacuum line running from the discharge pipe of the blower to the bottom of the BOV and a bleeder valve [ not a boost controler ] is used to bleed boost to the bottom side of the BOV to open it up at a set psi . From what Importofamerica says , a elec boost control will work even better then the bleeder valve .

 

Well after spending several hours on the dyno trying to get the W/M injection set up right and trying to get the boost to be more stable . We uninstalled the boost control and are going back to running the 3.12 pulley . The belt just wouldnt slip at the same time , every time with the 2.87 . After we got the bigger pulley on we ran into another snag . A misfire in cyl. #2 . Im going to start another thread to see if any one has an idea about what is causing it . We ended up after the misfire cleared it self at about the same whp....just over 400whp . Thats with it still running rich [ high 10s ] and the same timing being pulled . Money got to be a factor and I want to see if the misfire comes back before I put it back on the dyno to start tuning it .

THE SAGA CONTINUES

 

weird wonder what caused all the issues

 

The boost control we had just didnt cut it .Some times the boost would got to 12.5 and then tapper off to 10.5 , some times would build to 11.5 and tapper off to 10.5 . When we first had it on it wasnt that bad and we thought we could adjust it to work . Shop owner said he thought the HKS gaskets and the L19 studs would hold the seal . It also would be easier to tune the W/M and A/F with the 3.12 pulley and have the belt slip like it always had . The misfire is what we are baffled about . Just going to see if it comes back before I try again

 

I found the misfire today . It was the #2 injector clip . It wasnt pushed down all the way on the injector and wasnt getting a good signal and no signal at all at times .....Will talk to the shop on Monday .

 

I got the final tune done today . Ended up with 425whp and 338trq. I wanted to stay very safe . About all we did was adjust A/F . My com port for my computer took a chit and I couldnt datalog the knock volts . We adding 2 degree's of timing in any way , just to see if it made more power . It made 430whp and he wanted to add 2 more degree's in . I said I didnt want to push it and Im happy and pulled back out the 2 degree's we put in . Like I said in the beginning , I want to drive the car with out having to pull the motor again . The W/M injection , L19's , and the HKS gaskets has made it safe and with a tad more power than it had . Maybe next summer with the datalogger to watch knock . I might go for more.....but NOT now . I think for the sake of comparison I will take it to a DynoJet dyno and see what it make on it

 

nice!

what dynojet whp do you think you're in the ballpark of making?