After talking with my shop [ car woiuld have been ready to start today ] we have decided....well I did . To put the smallest pulley [ 2.87 ] on and install a waistgate and manual boost controler and bleed boost off at 10psi to start with . I will get to 10psi sooner and the motor will not have to work as hard to push the extra boost thru the IC . Belt slip should go away totally because preasure will never build past 10psi between the blower and IC . We are hoping the boost doesnt drop off to much as I have seen with the one other person that has tried it . He tried it with the stock SC-trim blower . With the T-trim , boost is building the fastest just as it reaches 10psi . I was spinning the blower at about max rpm recomended by Vortech with the 3.12 and the custom 34 tooth cog pulley . So I will be over reving it , but not putting so much stress on the motor nor the blower.

With all the heads lifting , moving . What ever is going on . I want to keep my motor in the car for a summer or two . I havent driven this thing much at all in the last two .

Along with the waistgate , water/meth injection , and most importantly...Me not tuning the car [ shop is doing it this time ] I hope to have a fast and safe car for the summer and maybe during this winter I'll go with a EMU that can control things better

 

sounds good, would be curious to see a dynochart on your car

actually i'd like to see any T-trim dyno sheet with whatever pulley. Curious how much sooner boost starts up vs the stock blower

 

With the 3.12 and the 34 tooth cog . I can tell you I was at 13psi at 5900rpm . As far as how fast it came on...it is much faster . As soon as the BOV closes its at 4psi. I was thinking with the pulleys I had on it , it should have made 16 to 18psi at redline.

edit: thats with a cog set up...or NO belt slip

 

Keep us posted Bill as I am thinking of ways to get this vortech to kick in sooner also.

 

Im getting plenty of boost . Im just tired of pulling the motor .I want to drive the car and not have it break . There is always next year

 

I feel for you, I have driven my car non stop ever since I got it except for the 2 weeks down time for mods I have done hopefully you will get around to doing the same soon.

 

Have you thought about using an electric boost controller.. With it you could dial in various boost settings while experimenting with the optimal pressure as well as using it for different driving conditions..A spring wastegate doesn't allow for different driving or changing boost on the fly..

 

That may come later when I go to a new EMU . We want to see how well it will work first .

 

Very cool idea good luck to you...

 

I was making 410-420whp on a Mustang dyno @13psi . We hope to match that with @ 10psi . With the 3.12 pulley I was getting to 10psi at just over 5000rpm . The 2.87 should get to 10psi a few hundred rpm's sooner . The on set boost should be 1 or 2 psi more also , as soon as the BOV closes now psi jumps to 4psi

 

booger, i would just go with the 2.62 pulley if you want quick boost

 

I had to have the 2.87 milled down to get it to work . Im thinking the 2.62 wouldnt be able to be milled with out ruining the pulley all together . When I first put the 2.87 on [ 1 1/2 years ago ] it tore up the jackshaft .

 

Very sensible plan.

 

Booger,

What kind of TQ numbers are you seeing w/ your set up?

THANKS!!!

 

330-338trq. remember I have a AT5 and on a Mustang dyno

 

What would your ETA be for this project? Very interesting!

 

they were working W/M injection when I was there today . I expect a day or two after the 4th...maybe longer with tuning in mind

 

the wastegate idea has been talked about before, but using one with the T-trim and 2.87 pulley sounds much more interesting

the car would act much more like a turbo, only there'd be absolutely zero throttle lag (not that there's much with a turbo Z anyway) and you'd get a few psi of boost below 2000-2500 rpms that you wouldn't normally get with a turbo, yet it won't generate near as much heat as a turbo and the boost might not hit such a high psi where the engine naturally makes peak torque.

though as soon as the waste gate opens up the torque on the dyno curve will start dropping as rpms increase and the psi stays the same, meaning the torque curve will start looking more similar to a ST setup

It'd probably not be something to try on a stock block because the torque would probably be capable of hitting 40 more torque around 4500 rpms than the 2.87 would on a stock vortech blower on top of the parasitic strain etc. In theory if it's excecuted right should work really nice

I'm curious to see what sort of wastegate setup ends up working and if it'd be simple enough to replicate


I'm looking at my own boost charts comparing the 3.12 pulley to the 2.87 pulley and on my car, I reach peak boost (9psi on my car) at around 5500 rpms and then it basically holds it to redline.

If the T-trim follows the same general shape, I'm thinking if it was to be done on my car for instance, I'd reach that same 9psi at more like 4000 rpms assuming the wastegate psi was setup just right. That's like a greddy TT kit

the thing I'd wonder about is how smooth the wastegate opens up the smooth the transition from the "clamping" of the psi

belt slipping might start becoming more of an issue

 

The Opening of the wastegate is are main concern . I think if you look at the log I sent you . I hit 10psi exactly were N/A peak trq. is [5200rpm ] With the smaller pulley on it should be a few hundred rpm's sooner . I hope that it is building boost fast enough to keep the drop off of boost to less than .5 psi

We are going to try a 38mm Tail wastegate , not sure on the manual boost controler

 

Stopped by the shop and he is going try to use the Vortech BOV as a wastegate and a BOV . He said some thing about using a check valve and some thing else...not sure . He wasnt sure it would work either , but if it does..... it will be much cheaper and he will not have to look for a place to put a wastegate .