For those of you that do not know - I have suffered grief with my car since going with a built LB and adding just about every other kind of performance mod possible to make my z take 600 + rwhp (ie. had to have my brand new built engine pulled out a week after it was put in because the heads that came with my built engine had cracks inside them, had a radiator hose blow off the radiator, brand new ats triple disc clutch sticking to the floor, etc.) BTW, I got screwed and had to pay twice for the engine install because of the bad heads. Just wrong.

My new best friend - I'm having an issue with my Z not wanting to go into any gear. I've literally only had my car back (or all summer) for about 6 days worth of driving and haven't even beat it yet because of trying to relearn the car with its new power. I haven't driven it since last Friday when the following started to occur (or atleast when I recognized it):

When my car is off I can put the trans in all gears with no issues. When I turn the car on and try to put it in any gear, it will not go in any of them. It almost feels as if I'm trying to put the car into gear without even using the clutch. If I start the car in 1st, I can drive and get it into 2nd, 3rd, etc with some pushing and it gets easier to get into gear at higher speeds. However, when slowing back down to say I traffic light, it's a ***** to get it back into
1st, 2nd gear again. I haven't driven it since last Friday because I don't want to damage anything if something simple is the issue.

I spoke to a trans shop that works on domestics and they said it sounds like a clutch fork may have been bent when the shop installed my ATS triple disc. I spoke to 2 guys from the shop here and they said similar things. However, I called Nissan to talk to a buddy there about getting me a new clutch fork and he said the trans actually has 3 clutch forks and that it would be extremely unusual for all clutch forks to go out or be bent. He also said that it was odd that the car has no issues being put into gear when it is off, but won't go into any gears when the car is on. I just spoke to a friend of mine that said that he had a similar issue with his mustang and it turned out that the clutch cable just ended up needing to be adjusted. Once he had that done, his issue went away. BTW, I did have a SS clutch line installed from Z1. Anyone have any ideas or heard of this happening before? Thanks in advance.

 

how many miles on the clutch and flywheel setup? I know when i just got my clutch and flywheel done it was a b!tch to shift ... but after 3000 miles it was back to normal

 

dude, its def the clutch, i would get someone to look at it

could be something as simple as low on clutch fluid. maybe possible pressure plate or disk problems

good luck!!

check the reservoir in the brake compartment


hopefully its something simple. the clutch reservoir takes dot 3 brake fluid...

 

about a month ago, my clutch pedal kept dropping lower and lower as the day went on (stock clutch.) by the end of the day, i could not disengage the clutch at all. I had to start the car in 1st gear, or I had to muscle it into 1st. all the other gears changes were fine, but I am oretty well versed in no-clutch shifting. My dad taught me how to do it about 18 years ago. you can do it, but you have to be cool with the gas pedal and match engine speed to tranmission speed as you shift. you have a small rpm window within which to get it into the next gear, but it should drop right into gear (almost as smooth as using the clutch.)

anyway, it sounds like you need to adjust the clutch pedal engagement and check for air in the clutch fluid. to adjust the pedal, you need to get down by the pedals. search the forums for a clutch pedal adjustement thread. I know there is one on the www.g35driver.com forum.

 

there is a bleed screw underneath on the bottom right next to the banjo bolt that the clutch line goes down to. you can pump the pedal and bleed it out if you think there is air in there. i would recommend checking the levels and then bleeding the lines, its really easy to do...

 

Unfortunatly it sounds like my situation. This isn't going to be pretty so sit down.

When installing the trans they likely cracked one or more of the carbon clutch discs. As soon as the clutch is released the pieces jam the clutch so it will not completely disengage not allowing the synchros to do their job thus it is extremely difficult to downshift.

You will likely need an entirely new clutch which is what I did.

Sorry to hear it.

Respect
JET

 

Ouch that hurts.

 

Thanks. I hope this is not my issue I can honestly say that if this is the issue and I do not get a new free ATS triple carbon clutch from them, I will definately be filing a lawsuit in the next week or so because I've had enough of this ****. Believe me, it will be a multiple count suit as well and the Michigan Consumer Protection Act provides for attorney fees and costs. Now, hopefully none of this will be necessary because it ends up being a clutch line adjustment or something like that.

 

I checked the fluid level and its full.

 

damn man, that sucks, i will be putting in my clutch next week or so, i will have to be very very very carefull....

 

DO NOT JIGGLE THE TRANSMISSION WHEN INSTALLING IT BACK IN THE CAR !!!

You will crack the carbon discs. I threw $1800 out the window. The clutch was brand new and had to spend another $1800 on a new clutch. My friend who is a qualified mechanic F*cked it up. So no recourse for me as he was doing it after hours.

Respect
JET

 

i just want to know where you could find that clutch for 1800 dollars,


ATS triple carbon with flywheel with type r pressure plater???

 

I have a twin..... They are $1800. There is no type R pressure plate. Type R is the carbon disc compound. There is Soft, Standard, and R. R sucks.... So does soft. R heats up and gets really really grabby. Soft has no torque capacity.

If I had to replace your clutch I would go with the twins disc, standard compound, 1350kg pp, and ccm coated flywheel, and pressure plate. YOu should have no problems with 600rwhp with that setup.

Try talking to Yasu at ATS. Explain your situation and myabe he can help rebuild your triple at cost. He was very helpful with me. Each disc costs about $650.

Respect
JET

 

thanks man, from what i understood with little investigation that the types were the pressure plates, soft (more drivable) regular (middle) and type R ( racing, hard to drive)


i am already pushing right over 500 at 13 psi clutch limited, i have a darton sleeved, arias ED, ported heads etc, block and will be pushing the limits of it soon, i "hope" to make a lot more than 600, i am almost there anyways....

i already ordered the triple carbon ATS and will have it next week. should have it in very very soon and will be back in effect!!

 

I got the Triple, Standard with 1350pp because I want room to grow. My car already put down 655.9 rwhp on a dyna pac dyno on 93 pump gas. I'll need the triple disc for my race gas map and don't want to have to pay for another one at like $2,600. This brand new clutch has about 1500 miles on it. about 1100 miles are break in and I've probably driven about 300 miles on it because I haven't had my car back long enough to even enjoy it before it breaks again. The other mileage is from dyno and tuning, shop time, etc.

The shop that did the work was kind enough to send one of their workers to my house to take a look at it (car can't be driven cuz it doesn't go into any gear). We couldn't figure out what was wrong. It doesn't look like its the trans because the car will shift into every gear like butter when the car is off and just doesn't work when you turn the car on. The slave cylinder is working properly also and the system is full of fluid.

Trying to get in touch with my friend at a local Nissan dealer to see if they can help me out and diagnose it so I know how to proceed and have a Nissan master tech tell me what the issue is.

 

good luck man, how long is recommended for break in, does it have to be normal driving or can it be a long trip?? i have had my car since october and besides the trip to NC from FL i only have 1300 miles!!!! this could take a while!!!

 

bump for an update. Did the new release bearing fix the problems you were having?

 

To me his problem sounds like a bit of air in the clutch cylinder.Needs to be bled similar process as bleeding brakes..Sticks in 1-2 but gets smooth as you drive..

 

Hey Tim,

I meant to get back to you sooner, but have been busy all week. The new release bearing is working well and addressed the issue. However, I need to have the clutch peddle or something adjusted because the clutch doesn't really start to engage until a few inches off the floor. Also, my luck must be horrible - this gets fixed and now my car won't build boost past 7.5-8.5 psi (even on my high boost seeting which is 17 psi). Must have a boost leak

Shawn

 

Yancy, didnt you have an issue where the shop installed the wrong TO bearing/sleeve with your new clutch. The ATS uses its own, and unique TO bearing. My guess, is that you have a stock sleeve and TO bearing, and this why your clutch is not disengaging. The TO bearing and sleeve are too short, basically. I can't recall if you switched back to an OEM style clutch...but either way, the TO bearing and sleeve both need to match.

Either way, that tranny needs to come off, the clutch examined, and that TO bearing and sleeve inspected.