Notices
Forced Induction Turbochargers and Superchargers..Got Boost?

Built TT = 6 sp trans issue or something else?

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Aug 10, 2006 | 08:50 AM
  #21  
Sharif@Forged's Avatar
Sharif@Forged
Sponsor
Forged Performance
iTrader: (92)
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 13,733
Likes: 1
From: Marietta, GA
Default

Originally Posted by Yancy
It doesn't look like its the trans because the car will shift into every gear like butter when the car is off and just doesn't work when you turn the car on..
Even without a clutch, the tranny will still cycle through the gears with the engine off.
Reply
Old Aug 10, 2006 | 10:00 AM
  #22  
Yancy's Avatar
Yancy
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 675
Likes: 0
From: Shelby Twp, Michigan
Default

Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
Yancy, didnt you have an issue where the shop installed the wrong TO bearing/sleeve with your new clutch. The ATS uses its own, and unique TO bearing. My guess, is that you have a stock sleeve and TO bearing, and this why your clutch is not disengaging. The TO bearing and sleeve are too short, basically. I can't recall if you switched back to an OEM style clutch...but either way, the TO bearing and sleeve both need to match.

Either way, that tranny needs to come off, the clutch examined, and that TO bearing and sleeve inspected.
As far as the TO bearing and sleeve, not that I'm aware of. I bought the ATS triple from them brand new and I think it comes with all the necessary parts. It wouldn't make any sense for them to use the stock parts when the ATS triple comes with upgraded parts. They took out the trans and inspected the clutch and said that it was fine, but the release bearing was shot and all beat up looking. They spoke to Yasur? at ATS who gave them the part number of the bearing ATS uses which is apparently a nissan bearing, but not the one that comes in the 350z.

I got the car back on Monday and have driven it a few times since, but am trying to bleed the cooling system of air (bubbles up with cap off and the temp for no reason will go from 192 to 202 then back down, etc) Also, when I hit the gas in 1st/2nd the car immediately chokes for a second or two then comes back to life and hits with power. My car is also not getting over 7.5-8.5 psi on either my low or high map on my UTEC (high map is 17 psi) so it looks like I had a decent boost leak right?
Reply
Old Aug 10, 2006 | 04:30 PM
  #23  
Sharif@Forged's Avatar
Sharif@Forged
Sponsor
Forged Performance
iTrader: (92)
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 13,733
Likes: 1
From: Marietta, GA
Default

Yeah, the clutch does come with the new bearing. The only other reason the clutch would disengage, is if the plates and hub are not stacked correctly. Still trying to understand what exactly what went wrong here.
Reply
Old Aug 10, 2006 | 07:32 PM
  #24  
Weqster's Avatar
Weqster
Registered User
 
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 402
Likes: 0
From: Sydney, Australia
Default

a coupler not done up tight enough will cause the car not to build boost past a certain pressure. ALso check ur BOV.

lastly if ur radiator is constantly bubbling u have blown a headgasket.
Reply
Old Aug 11, 2006 | 02:01 AM
  #25  
mjedens's Avatar
mjedens
Registered User
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 433
Likes: 0
From: Chattanooga, TN
Default

Subscribing
Reply
Old Aug 11, 2006 | 08:25 AM
  #26  
Yancy's Avatar
Yancy
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 675
Likes: 0
From: Shelby Twp, Michigan
Default

Originally Posted by Weqster
a coupler not done up tight enough will cause the car not to build boost past a certain pressure. ALso check ur BOV.

lastly if ur radiator is constantly bubbling u have blown a headgasket.
Take no offense to this because you must not realize that I just recently got my car back from the shop and have had little time (a few hundred miles) to boost it to create a blown head gasget! I actually think I just have air in the system that needs to work its way out.

A few weeks ago when I initially got my car back from the shop, the radiator hose (bottom one) blew clean off the radiator and I lost all the fluid (I pulled the car off immediately and shut it down). The shop fixed it and refilled the radiator and got my car back to me. When I got it back, there was air in the system and I spent about 2 hours or so bleeding the system myself and there was still air in the sytem but it was much better than when I got it back from the shop. Well, I had the car for like 2-3 days and think I drove it twice and the car came up with the issue where it didn't want to go into gear so I had to take it back to the shop to get that fixed (bad release bearing in a brand new ATS Triple). Anyway, I just recently got my car back and it still has air in the system, I think. This is what I'm hoping for anyway.

On the way to work today (I decided to drive my car today to see if I can work the air out of the system), I hooked up my OBDII scanner to watch the coolant temps. After warm up at idle its around 194; in traffic it warms up to like 203 max (it fluctautes up to this), but on the highway arounf 80 mph it actually was running around 188-190. Also, I've noticed that the temp will fluctuate sometimes from 194-196 up to 203 or so then come back down in a minute or two at the same constant speed (which I think is an idication that their are air pockets trapped in the system).

As far as the head gasket, this is my second Cometic HG, but my brand new LB engine with head work came with cracks in the heads, so my shop had to pull the engine, take the heads off, wait for my engine builder in TX to send me new heads without cracks, then put the new heads back on the car. While installing these new heads, we used the L19 studs, new cometic HG, and SVRT head supports (plus I have a sleaved block). The combo of these things, plus having a boost leak and not being able to get it past 8 or so psi hopefully hints that its not a HG issue, but just air in the sytem.

Anyone have an idea?

As far as the release bearing in the ATS Triple, I have been curious myself of what would cause the thing to not work. However, Tim in Texas (I think T32zz) is having the same issue I just had with the ATS clutch. Possibly the bearings being used are no good for our set up?
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Colombo
Forced Induction
35
Nov 9, 2020 10:27 AM
sherm
Engine & Drivetrain
15
Apr 11, 2020 05:21 PM
MicVelo
NorCal Marketplace
9
Oct 4, 2015 07:55 PM
350z82
Exterior & Interior
19
Oct 1, 2015 06:25 PM




All times are GMT -8. The time now is 09:41 AM.