Best FI cam?
There is also a Maxima guy that is about to run these.
Do you have the cam specs JWT gave you on these?
Do you have the cam specs JWT gave you on these?
Originally Posted by westpak
I just got a set of new JWT C2 cams (not S2) and will give those a shot when I finish my build.
Originally Posted by D350Z10
Tomei 268's are a na cam, to much overlay waste of money for FI.
There is alot more to a cam than it's lift and duration. Those that take the time to understand this stuff will be rewarded with a far broader power band, and more peak power. How that lift and duration is measured, and even what is used to measure them, makes a difference as well
The Tomei 268 are an EXCELLENT FI cam in fact - one of the best. Now, Tomei has new grinds. 272's with 10.5mm lift intake/exhaust (would be a great FI cam). The others they are offering are more NA suited
Last edited by Z1 Performance; Aug 4, 2006 at 03:20 AM.
Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
explain this one to me
There is alot more to a cam than it's lift and duration. Those that take the time to understand this stuff will be rewarded with a far broader power band, and more peak power. How that lift and duration is measured, and even what is used to measure them, makes a difference as well
The Tomei 268 are an EXCELLENT FI cam in fact - one of the best. Now, Tomei has new grinds. 272's with 10.5mm lift intake/exhaust (would be a great FI cam). The others they are offering are more NA suited
There is alot more to a cam than it's lift and duration. Those that take the time to understand this stuff will be rewarded with a far broader power band, and more peak power. How that lift and duration is measured, and even what is used to measure them, makes a difference as well
The Tomei 268 are an EXCELLENT FI cam in fact - one of the best. Now, Tomei has new grinds. 272's with 10.5mm lift intake/exhaust (would be a great FI cam). The others they are offering are more NA suited
The steetability of?
That is such a relative term, as it as much a function of the install and tune, than anything else. Not to mention, there tends to be a big disparity between what person A and B are willing to tolerate on a day to day basis.
A high duration/high lift can make for trickier tuning, but it need not mean poor streetability. It is all about working with an experienced engine builder and tuner to get the best setup that suits your needs.
That is such a relative term, as it as much a function of the install and tune, than anything else. Not to mention, there tends to be a big disparity between what person A and B are willing to tolerate on a day to day basis.
A high duration/high lift can make for trickier tuning, but it need not mean poor streetability. It is all about working with an experienced engine builder and tuner to get the best setup that suits your needs.
Last edited by Z1 Performance; Aug 4, 2006 at 06:00 AM.
That's some quick response 
Ok I'll try to be more specific. Most of us are using piggyback systems as engine management (EU, UTEC, Unichip, F-CON SZ and other brands). So we don't have total access to tune the off-boost parts of the map and the idle as well.
I'm asking about if the car will have jerking problems because of the high overlap of the cams, or rough idle or decrease in response of the car at low rpm levels. I hope that I'm more specific about what I ask now. I'm also at the edge of buying a set of new cams (that's why I started this thread anyway lol) and the most important criteria for me is streetability and then power.

Ok I'll try to be more specific. Most of us are using piggyback systems as engine management (EU, UTEC, Unichip, F-CON SZ and other brands). So we don't have total access to tune the off-boost parts of the map and the idle as well.
I'm asking about if the car will have jerking problems because of the high overlap of the cams, or rough idle or decrease in response of the car at low rpm levels. I hope that I'm more specific about what I ask now. I'm also at the edge of buying a set of new cams (that's why I started this thread anyway lol) and the most important criteria for me is streetability and then power.
Thats just the thing - where are you seeing that the Tomei's have a high overlap? In fact, aside from the new grinds and the Spec 2 NISMO cams, I don't really know of any cams that high a particularly high overlap - certainly not high enough that a competant tuner could not make it run as it should, assuming it's been properly installed.
There really is no way to answer your question specifically, as it's a function of many things as you well know. A high duration cam does not automatically give up power down low - that is highly dependant on the ramp up angles of the lobes as well as the characteristics of the head, the manifold, the turbo, etc. It all begins to get quite technical at the end of the day.
My own recommendation is the spend the time on the tune - once you are satisfied that you've milked the stock heads for all they are worth, that is when it's time to concentrate on the upper half of the motor. From there, decide how you are going to make your power, and where you want that power to be made, and by bet is you'll end up with a very short list of cams that meet that criteria.
There really is no way to answer your question specifically, as it's a function of many things as you well know. A high duration cam does not automatically give up power down low - that is highly dependant on the ramp up angles of the lobes as well as the characteristics of the head, the manifold, the turbo, etc. It all begins to get quite technical at the end of the day.
My own recommendation is the spend the time on the tune - once you are satisfied that you've milked the stock heads for all they are worth, that is when it's time to concentrate on the upper half of the motor. From there, decide how you are going to make your power, and where you want that power to be made, and by bet is you'll end up with a very short list of cams that meet that criteria.
I'm finished with my current setup and I'm getting all the power that I can get out of it with the stock heads and head components.
I want to get power up to 8K rpm (I'll be upgrading the turbos soon so my power band will need to be extended)
I'm using UTEC so I can't tune idle. I don't have access to a ecu flasher (I'm in Europe). The car is 2004.5 and I can't raise the idle w/o flashing the ECU. SO I need a cam that will let the car to keep running @ stock idle rpm. I can't tune off-boost areas of the map (as UTEC only uses 1 column for those areas and it is not enough to tune the off boost map with 1 column) so I need a cam that will not make the car jerk at certain rpms where the overlap occurs.
These are my expectations of a cam.
Now would you suggest the Tomei Stg 2 to me ?
I want to get power up to 8K rpm (I'll be upgrading the turbos soon so my power band will need to be extended)
I'm using UTEC so I can't tune idle. I don't have access to a ecu flasher (I'm in Europe). The car is 2004.5 and I can't raise the idle w/o flashing the ECU. SO I need a cam that will let the car to keep running @ stock idle rpm. I can't tune off-boost areas of the map (as UTEC only uses 1 column for those areas and it is not enough to tune the off boost map with 1 column) so I need a cam that will not make the car jerk at certain rpms where the overlap occurs.
These are my expectations of a cam.
Now would you suggest the Tomei Stg 2 to me ?
I've got the Tomei's for my car, though I have no boost. Having been in several cars with them idle was not an issue, though all were flashed for a higher than stock idle. The right cam choice is a function of many things, and generally is the last thing you pick to meet a certain power goal. May want to consult with whomever is doing your heads and go about it that way.
Originally Posted by HoldThisForMe
I've been craving to hear a sound clip of a camming 350z....anyone know of any or could make one?
Im using Tomei 268 and making power all the way to 8000rpm with a 900rpm idle. Chances are you will need to bump it up to at least 900rpm somehow and reset the idle control function in the stock ECU to remove any drivability issues. This is before the turbos go on though but I believe if you can make it flow like this in NA it should behave similar when FI, just like the stock motors power characteristics dont change much when you go FI (ie power still drops off ruffly past the same rpm, albeit at a higher hp level). Changing to the rev-up lower intake manifold is also a requirement to make power all the way to 8k, not to mention strong balanced internals and complete valve train.
Last edited by mchapman; Aug 7, 2006 at 03:58 PM.





Can't wait to hear!