What's everyone's opinions on the 2 choices. My car is not really a daily driver so that's not really an issue with needing multiple settings. By going with springs does that cut down on the chance of spiking? I'm trying to keep things as simple as possibe so there's less things that can go bad/break. But, if I truly need a controller I will get one.

 

The ONLY advantage of an electronic boost controller is that it uses the signal port line to hold the WG closed until full boost is reached enabling a faster spool up time.

You can always go with a manual boost controller that won't send a signal to OPEN the WG until full boost is reached.

If your not going to increase boost over stock or want a faster spool up time then the spring is fine.

JET

 

I'm thinking 14.5 psi springs

 

As mentioned, just using the spring will result in slower spool up, with the boost controller you can usually set gain to control how quick the boost kicks in and a start boost which holds the wg closed until the start boost is reached.

 

I would choose a spring that gets you close to your desire boost level, and use the boost controller to get the extra 2psi you are looking for. On a greddy TT, a 1 bar spring usually delivers about 12psi of boost, after intercooler losses. If you are looking for 14psi or so, use the boost controller to get you to the final point.

 

whats the max PSI you can get out of your boost controller? is it around 1.5 or 2 times the amount of the spring?

 

why is spool up time faster? Why would the spring open before the set psi?

 

When running on wastegate spring alone the wastegate cracks open and beings to bleed out exhaust gas slightly before peak boost pressure is achieved. This results in slighlty slower spool up times as the turbine is not getting all potential flow available to it. With an electronic boost controller the unit will hold the wastegat 100% closed until the last possible second and then force the gate open to prevent overboost. This can if settings are not correct cause a momentary boost spike. Theres a really good article on boost control here:
http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/te...boost_control/

 

thanks!

 

the HKS EVC 5 can actually raise the boost higher than other Boost controllers because of its Stepper motor vs. a Selonoid, also it is much more acurate and wont spike much (it actually probally wont at all)

Anyways its 500 bucks or so and IMO the best boost controller on the market today.

 

That's the reason why I went with the HKS EVC 2 (same as 5, but no LCD monitor). I heard that over time solenoids don't function as good. I get underboost and overboost depending on what gear and what speed I'm at..8.4psi~13psi... I want 11psi... I'm tired of doing the guess work of how much spring preload to give etc, etc to achieve what I want. No more mechanical guess work with this HKS EVC. It's getting installed as I write this..

 

Hows this boost controller working for you? I am having problems right now with my boost peaking at 10.5 to 12.6 and droping some where in the 11's. I want 11.5. that is where it was tuned. I have a PE TT so they are internal wastegates, I dont know if that really makes a diffrent? I am running a manual turbo xs boost controller right now. My greddy e01 for some reason isnt working?? This sucks!

 

Wow Miaplaya, that link for B.C. comps was totally helpful!
Sean

 

If you have a utec and 200 bucks you get boost control with selectable maps. Ive always had electric boost control until now because they always get me in trouble. I say just 1 more psi a couple times the same night I get in trouble. And I cant quite lift the vq out like my 13Bs

 

Glad I could help.

 

For what it's worth I went AEM tru-boost controller. I don't think it's "the best" but I like it features and that it mounts in a pillar pod and is better than nothing (at 7000ft) I will let this thread know when I'm done how it goes whoever is interested...
Sean

 

For the APS TT I heard that you can only boost to 10-11psi , would a boost controler get me that into the 12-13psi range??

 

Not if the diapphrams on the actuators to the actuators themselves are not physically capable of holding the gate close to more then that.

 

Mia,
Great article, Thanks!

For what it is worth, I went with the 1 bar actuator spring for my base boost and then used the HKS EVC II for my low/high boost maps.

 

i'm running a txs mbc and it fluctuates boost. I'm going to go back to wg springs to keep a steady boost. Probably go with the 11.5 springs for ~ 10.5 at the MAP.