Got a call from the dealer today stating my stock clutch is 20% left.( 15,000 miles )

The car currently has the tranny out on warranty issues, so now is the
time to replace the clutch.

I was told i need to replace the flywheel as well, as it cannot be re-surfaced.

Has anyone replace the clutch and pressure plate without doing the flywheel?
If i have such low milage would the flywheel not be in smooth flat condition?

Im currenty looking at the jwt clutch and p/p, as well as the act street clutch and p/p. Both are approx 400.00 new.

If i do replace the flywheel as well what is recommended.
I dont want to have the gravel mixing sounds ive read about when you get
away from the dual mass stock flywheel.

Does anyone make a lighted flywheel thats not dual mass and just as quiet as oem?

Im under pressure to figure this out soon as the new tranny will be in mid to late next week.


FYI: I was previously running a vortech, now have switched over, but not installed yet, the turbonetics kit.

 

i call bullsh*t they tried to make me buy a new clutch and I didn't want and after market one. I told them no! then they are going to say well it need to be a new one or we can't do it, once again I call bullsh*t and they actually bought it. search the forum. unless you really wanna buy a new clutch. and i very highly doubt your flywheel or pressure plate is messued up or even worn down..

 

Clutches can go as soon as 3K....depends on driving habits. If you need an aftermarket clutch for your soon to be installed Turbonetics kit, I would recommend the JWT combo. They have been very sucessful in handling the increased power of the Tnetics kit as well as retaining a stock feel. If you have any question or need help locating a clutch shoot me a call.

 

JWT is a glorified stocker that I wouldn't run on a FI setup. Look into a clutchmaster's stage 3 or Spec stage 2+

 

You can't be serious! How many turbo installs have you done? I know everyone is entitled to their own opinion but that is just misleading. Before I went with an ATS twin carbon I was looking into the idea of modifying a Z32 TT clutch and even spoke with people at ACT about it. JIm Wolf took that idea and perfected it. We have at least 20 TN cars running that set-up and have seen no slippage. Granted there is better (shamless ATS plug here) but for most who daily drive their FI Z/G the JWT will work fine.

 

The JWT clutch and flywheel setup on BriGuyMax's car seems to be holding up just fine to back to back 11.6 @ 120mph 1/4 mile passes with 1.70 60' times and about 10,000 miles of severe beating on the vehicle with his APS TT installed...

Spec clutch - hmm, let me think how many of those I've seen fail prematurely... can't count them all on two hands. Or how about the three I know of that have actually physically exploded, totalling two of those three vehicles. Their QC is laughable.

Anyone who recommends a Spec clutch does not know a whole lot about the subject.

I hate JWT as a company, but their clutch works just fine on FI Zs making sub 500whp numbers.

 

Please try to argue that the JWT is not a glorified stock setup because that is exactly what it is. The reasons I would not run it on a FI setup are as follows:
1.) Organic material leaving it prone to glazing. Once it slips, it is down hill
2.) for relatively the same money - exactly the same install costs/time, you can get a clutch more apt to handle the power. ACT, Spec, Clutchmaster and others offer relatively cheap setups that are more suited towards a force induction setup.

I am not saying JWT isn't a fine setup, just that I feel there are much better alternatives for a boosted Z

 

What about the act streetlite flywheel and ss street clutch and p/p?

I did some searching and found a post about it stating it was as quiet as
oem, no chatter at all. Anyone else have an opinion on this.

I may go the jwt combo, the only thing holding me back on this is the broad variance of opinions of the sound.

One persons post will say its very noisy, the next persons post will say its very minimal.

I want to do it right the first time, but im one of those ppl who cannot stand
squeaks groans and chatters.

I was considering just doing the act clutch and p/p, as my mechanic said he could not see any hot spots on my flywheel.

He said he could buff the flywheel with a fiberglass disc to roughen it up a bit to help seat the new clutch.

Im all for this idea as long as it works and works well.

Thanks.

 

I love my spec stage 2+, feels stock and have had no problems yet. Granted, still breaking in the new motor, so not exactly beating on the car. lol.

 

you will get some noise if you decide on a lightened flywheel regardless of what clutch you choose. The sound is not that bad, mostly only hear it in low RPMs if you don't downshift and you bog the car a bit

 

^ exactly. I really suggest people to test drive a Z with a light flywheel, and then decide if you can live with it.

 

i was told that the flywheel cant be resurfaced....is this true, im waiting on a clutch right now....i thought the shop was messing with me, when they said they dont think they can resurface a 350z flywheel...thought they were just trying to sell me more stuff.....AhHHHhhHHHHHH

 

Well ive read a few posts of ppl who have not redone or resurfaced the flywheel and just replaced the clutch and p/p. I guess its dependant on
the condition of your flywheel.

 

I really loved my JWT clutch and flywheel, it held up like a champ even at 475 whp and never slipped. Only bad thing is the flywheel chatter.

I just got my car back with the ATS Dual plate clutch and it drives and feels great while driving normally and fast but sucks ***** when driving slow in 1st or second and you simply can not feather it out which will make it very challenging when driving up a hill in slow LA traffic. I'm sure it'll get better once I get used to it but it still could have been better.

 

1. Which ATS dual clutch did you use? (model no.?)
2. Flywheel chatter - never heard this - how bad, can you describe, did you get this with your new setup?

Sorry if ignorant questions - trying to make a educated decision on replacement at 30k of OEM. In both my Z and G the OEM clutch seemed weak from the first few months - just not made to stand up to even the stock engine torque under hard use (not abuse as in riding it, just letting it take full engine power between gears).

Thanks in advance.

 

I'd recommend the ACT setup. Best setup I've driven on so far. I personally have the ACT street disc and Stage 1 pressure plate but I used a JWT flywheel which I'm still kicking myself for. I drove another Z with the same clutch and pressure plate but with the ACT Prolite flywheel and it was quieter and spun up faster (revved quicker) then my car.

 

Yes, it can be resurfaced. I went that route. Resurfaced flywheel and spec 2+ clutch. VERY happy with the results. Virtually zero chatter at idle and stock like feel on the clutch. I also believe the spec 2+ is rated @ 600lbs of torque (or 650... forgot which one).

 

2+ is rated at 525 tq at the flywheel.

 

this was my experience also.. but when i headed towards that direction.. everyone looked at my like i had 2 heads

 

ah, thanks for the clarification.....