Nice setup Todd...What up with you and Sharif...Never call a hommie back??? Hit me up..

 

I would go with L19 for anything approaching 500rwhp, we only recommedn L19 for sub 500 and 1/2" upgrade for over 500

 

I'm giving you the price for this same motor build...this particular customer had the cams and supplied them, he also had the entire ferrea valvetrain...but I don't encourage customers to supply their own parts, as I would rather make the profit on the parts (as I buy thousands of dollars in oarts per month and can get much better pricing), and can typically pass on some of the savings to the customer...the reason I supplied the price was so people have an idea of what this costs, this specific motor was priced a bit differently

-TODD

 

hugh? I just sent you a PM yesterday you silly little biatch.

 

Kinda Bad but Im a cheap A$$ thats why. Weisco has proven verry reliable in many diffrent builds so I decided to go with them to funnel money at making it breath better to get more efficient charge into the cylinder and not making a 1000WHP internal engine run at 600ish WHP.

I'm a firm beliver in Nissan Engines and I want to make an internal only build to get my power, not sleeving it out. I guesse its more nissan pride the logical thinking. Plus the whole 1000whp comment above applies here too. We'll see how it goes. If I want them later I can just send it back and have them put it in if I want to go for biggr HP than planned.

I sent the cams to him so they were not priced in my build. BTW they are JWT S1's why because I bought them in my massive almost $10,000 purchase from Avalon back in July 05 and they were one of the few available. Got a great deal on bulk purchase so I went with the purchase then.


After this build my car has about $27,000 plus in parts now. And still more to come. Gotta upgrade the half shafts, got to a twin or tripple clutch, and upgrade the brakes. After that its the nice-ities (3" exhaust, wider wheels & tires, etc). My goal was to have the most complete Z on island but they up and closed the track this year so now its a follow through for when I leave the island. Looking at moving to Texas in 2 years.

Todd you made my day with these pics man. 100% hard on. I'm SO STOKED about the rest of the build and eventual tune. I'll keep you updated on how every thing goes. If any one wants I can post a new thread with all the parts on the car.

Time line is: Started speculating the project January 05, started buying parts July 05, Started building I think it was November or December 05.

 

Yeah I had a great deal on the valve train that I couldnt pass up. Got every thing for almost half price. But if you cant get that type of deal go with Todd's pricing. It's definately the best pricing out there.

Plus you save more money because the price of an install with the timing cases on is far better the the price diffrence of buying an engine with out the case. If that made any sence. Basicly Fully timed install is about $650'ish for me and untimed install was out the butt expensive .

 

What are you going to use for EM?

 

I've been running Greddy EU. Works realy well and has a lot of features I like. Plus its realy one of the few EM that people on island here can tune. Verry limited preformance base here. I was running the JS safeguard too but there were too many odd and end problems that arrose with the JS unit and the EU so I just finaly pulled it in hopes Greddy will eventualy put out a fixed timing solution instead of a +/- solution.

 

Talk to Gurgen about putting resistors or something in line for the timing control on the EU, he was able to make the normally eradic EU power curve- look relatively smooth...I wouldn't recommend the EU for high hp (over 450rwhp)...but talk to Gurgen at the very least

You would be better off with a UTEC for the power you are planning to run, again, the interface is pathetic, but it gets the job done- direct timing and fuel control. Talk to Sharif

Glad you liked the pics, I tried calling your shop in HI, they don't ever answer the phone and their mailbox is full, please let me know on the ETA for the core. Thanks

-TODD

 

Happy Birthday Todd. Sorry I couldn't make it to Japengo's. Sorry to be off topic but when can we schedule a time I could leave my Z and you guys see whats leaking . I think it smells like fuel again. Also I want to relocate that catch can properly.

 

call me monday morning and we'll take a look

-TODD

 

Todd,

No good look at the seats in those pics. The rest of that P&P is beautiful. You don't mention it specifically, but do you throw the heads on a Sergi as part of that package? Just seems like a 3-angle, 5-angle, or radiused seat would make quite a difference on these heads moving that much air.

 

3 angles on the seat...sorry about not including pics of the seats, I even went to the machine shop when they were finishing them up, but my camera wouldn't work!!! I'l talk to Jarod and find out some more specifics

 

thanks for the 1/2" headstud conversion. with HKS headgaskets, this year I am actually running 14psi again without any coolant issues. Car is running strong and runing hard -- putting the hurt on 100K+ cars!

 

my pleasure Charles... get some beefier wastegate springs, move on up to 18-20 psi and then you can put the hurt on the 300k+ cars

 

thanks for reminding me... i gotta get some springs on order. since i never tried more then 14psi before, i just assumed i could get a couple more psi out of these stock 5.5psi springs. when i actually TRIED to turn it up - nope, i could get it up to 16.5 just around 4200rpm but then it falls right back down.

iwant to run 11psi with the controller turned off... sharif suggested i use teh 1bar springs and that i would get around 12psi i think he said. which springs are you running and whats your base boost?

 

Well, I'm running an APS tt setup, I used valvesprings out of an old datsun for my actuator springs (forge was on backorder and my motor was out of my car)...I set the springs to open the wastegates at 18psi...so my low boost is 18psi, sometimes in 4th/5th gear i'll see almost 21 psi...

When I ran my greddy tt setup, I was using the .8bar springs, this will give you 10-11 psi with the boost controller off

 

sounds good.. ill just go for the .8bar to be safe.. I dont think I will ever even go for 20 psi, so it should be perfect.

 

Hey man i would if i was u... actualy i did coz u dont want the head to pop off and coz u some loss so y not to do it from now.. i think any 1 who is targeting 500whp and above will need the ARPs main and the L19 head once...
Good luck in ur project..