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HELP! vortech S/C problems...

Old Oct 13, 2006 | 12:01 PM
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Question HELP! vortech S/C problems...

i just piked up my z today, i installed the vortech s/c and im facing lot lot lot.. of problems.
1-when im running third GEAR , RPM like 4000, the z is like N/A, theres no torque , feel like N/A. my friend owns a stillen s/c 350z , he smoked me (at third gear,like 4 cars)...
but when we drag i can keep up with him.

2- the s/c belt is ****ed up. i can see one of the ribs of the S/c PULLEY.(i just drove for 1 hour...)

3- i always hear the sound of the BOV , its like a hight whisle even when im cruising. i don t really hear the 'pshhhhhhh' sound when i change gears also...

i'm really disapointed , so what do u guys think?
i know i already used the Search link

Last edited by xav_350z; Oct 13, 2006 at 12:04 PM.
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by xav_350z
i just piked up my z today, i installed the vortech s/c and im facing lot lot lot.. of problems.
1-when im running third GEAR , RPM like 4000, the z is like N/A, theres no torque , feel like N/A. my friend owns a stillen s/c 350z , he smoked me (at third gear,like 4 cars)...
but when we drag i can keep up with him.

2- the s/c belt is ****ed up. i can see one of the ribs of the S/c PULLEY.(i just drove for 1 hour...)

3- i always hear the sound of the BOV , its like a hight whisle even when im cruising. i don t really hear the 'pshhhhhhh' sound when i change gears also...

i'm really disapointed , so what do u guys think?
i know i already used the Search link
Did you have the car tuned? Do you have a boost gauge? The reason he pulls away from you like that is because that's the nature of the Vortech. Do you start gaining on your friend toward redline?
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 12:15 PM
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Originally Posted by xav_350z
i just piked up my z today, i installed the vortech s/c and im facing lot lot lot.. of problems.
1-when im running third GEAR , RPM like 4000, the z is like N/A, theres no torque , feel like N/A. my friend owns a stillen s/c 350z , he smoked me (at third gear,like 4 cars)...
but when we drag i can keep up with him.

2- the s/c belt is ****ed up. i can see one of the ribs of the S/c PULLEY.(i just drove for 1 hour...)

3- i always hear the sound of the BOV , its like a hight whisle even when im cruising. i don t really hear the 'pshhhhhhh' sound when i change gears also...

i'm really disapointed , so what do u guys think?
i know i already used the Search link
well, it all sounds normal really...

yes the ribs on the pulley show thru the belt a little
yes the BOV is always making that sorta whistle sound when cruising. It only does the loud PSSSHH whenever you shift gears hard while giving it a lot of throttle. It needs a lot of air pressure to do it, and won't if you're just cruising

Yes the midrange is not = to the stillen. But if you raced a stillen you should hold your own depending on the two cars - which you say you do, so no problem there

sounds like you need to upgrade the pulley on the blower and retune. Maybe get the 3.9 final drive.


it's too bad you didn't know the vortech makes loud BOV noises and sounds like a jet when cruising

I think you were expecting something higher than what the vortech's out of the box setup can give you. IMO the base vortech isn't very good. You need the 3.12 or 2.87 pulley and headers to get some real ***** out of it.

Last edited by sentry65; Oct 13, 2006 at 12:20 PM.
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 01:46 PM
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If you want to mute that whistling sound, get a filter for the Bypass Valve. You can search and find the part# somewhere here. At 4000rpm, you are probably only making 1psi of boost, so it should feel very close to NA. Remember you only make full boost at redline. Everything else sounds normal. Get it tuned if you already haven't becasue the SS box comes tuned from the factory really really rich, robbing you of at least 20whp.
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 02:22 PM
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switching the SC pulley will really really help with the boost

on my car at 4000 rpms, I think I'm around 4-4.5 lbs of boost - I'd have to double check though
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by dutchboy
Did you have the car tuned? Do you have a boost gauge? The reason he pulls away from you like that is because that's the nature of the Vortech. Do you start gaining on your friend toward redline?
nop, i just installed the ss box... and i don't have a boost gauge also, but the who installed the S/c told me that im runing 7 PSI (0.5 bar) of boost.
even on redline i can t catch up with him, he's too fast

Originally Posted by sentry65
well, it all sounds normal really...

yes the ribs on the pulley show thru the belt a little
yes the BOV is always making that sorta whistle sound when cruising. It only does the loud PSSSHH whenever you shift gears hard while giving it a lot of throttle. It needs a lot of air pressure to do it, and won't if you're just cruising

Yes the midrange is not = to the stillen. But if you raced a stillen you should hold your own depending on the two cars - which you say you do, so no problem there

sounds like you need to upgrade the pulley on the blower and retune. Maybe get the 3.9 final drive.


it's too bad you didn't know the vortech makes loud BOV noises and sounds like a jet when cruising

I think you were expecting something higher than what the vortech's out of the box setup can give you. IMO the base vortech isn't very good. You need the 3.12 or 2.87 pulley and headers to get some real ***** out of it.
i still have half of the belt left...
i'm sure the pulleys are not lined up correctly.
i just ordered the 3.12 pulley...
Originally Posted by DMK
If you want to mute that whistling sound, get a filter for the Bypass Valve. You can search and find the part# somewhere here. At 4000rpm, you are probably only making 1psi of boost, so it should feel very close to NA. Remember you only make full boost at redline. Everything else sounds normal. Get it tuned if you already haven't becasue the SS box comes tuned from the factory really really rich, robbing you of at least 20whp.
yup at 3500 ~4000 RPM i feel like my z is completly stock...
u guys think i need to buy the R4 software to tune the ss box?
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 03:53 PM
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oh you mean the belt is actually cut?

yeah somethings is bad, I thought you just meant you can see the ribs thru the belt - like seeing someones ribs on their chest thru their skin

otherwise comparing to the stillen car, do you know what other mods he has? auto or manual? maybe he's a really good driver?

usually when you dyno tune a FI car, you tap into the manifold to get a boost reading which is probably what the shop did.

I'd make sure you have an A/F gauge before anything else

another thing is did the shop REALLY tune it or just throw it on the dyno to see what it did and double check that it's safe? The stock vortech map is too rich up top - you have about 10-20whp to gain with leaning the map out.

Add in the 3.12 pulley and now you're looking at 35-45 more whp with the pulley and a tune compared to the base vortech map
I've never driven a bone stock vortech on a car - I started with the 3.12 and already had a ton of NA mods - cams, headers, HF cats, etc but 4000 rpms is right where you really start feeling the power come on strong
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by sentry65
oh you mean the belt is actually cut?

yeah somethings is bad, I thought you just meant you can see the ribs thru the belt - like seeing someones ribs on their chest thru their skin

otherwise comparing to the stillen car, do you know what other mods he has? auto or manual? maybe he's a really good driver?

usually when you dyno tune a FI car, you tap into the manifold to get a boost reading which is probably what the shop did.

I'd make sure you have an A/F gauge before anything else

another thing is did the shop REALLY tune it or just throw it on the dyno to see what it did and double check that it's safe? The stock vortech map is too rich up top - you have about 10-20whp to gain with leaning the map out.

Add in the 3.12 pulley and now you're looking at 35-45 more whp with the pulley and a tune compared to the base vortech map
I've never driven a bone stock vortech on a car - I started with the 3.12 and already had a ton of NA mods - cams, headers, HF cats, etc but 4000 rpms is right where you really start feeling the power come on strong
yup the belt is cut
i'll post some pics...
well they didn t tune it , they don t even have a dyno lol (nissan dealer) they just installed the ss box!
we don t have proff tuners here, they pretend to be.
i just called the guy, he told me to pass 2omorrow and he'll c what to do.
about the stillen z , yeah its manual, we both have same parts (exhaust,flywheel,clutch,) but i have HFC. ( too loud ) he smoked me even at high rpm...
i downloaded some vortech's videos. i don t have the same BOV sound...
i'll dyno my car next week, and install the gauges (boost, a/f ).
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 06:10 PM
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yeah I'd say get that stuff fixed and race the stillen guy again. Do you know what stage stillen kit he's running?
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Old Oct 13, 2006 | 07:03 PM
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hmmm
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Old Oct 14, 2006 | 01:43 AM
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Originally Posted by sentry65
yeah I'd say get that stuff fixed and race the stillen guy again. Do you know what stage stillen kit he's running?
he's running stillen stage 4...
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Old Oct 14, 2006 | 03:01 AM
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Get that belt fixed and get a tune. You are running pig rich and making probably around 300 rwhp, no chance against a Stillen Stage 4. If your belt is slipping, then you're probably making not getting 7 psi and probably making 280 rwhp, so I can understand why you feel "stock". I once dyno'ed my stock Vortech without a tune and made 290 rwhp, but I made that at 5k rpm. After 5k rpm, power took a huge dump from running too rich. The dyno operator told me I could easily see 350 rwhp with a tune. He was right. I'm making 350 rwhp off a DynoPak.
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Old Oct 14, 2006 | 10:53 AM
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things are starting to make sense now if he's a stage 4 stillen

yeah I'd say stillen stage 4 is out of the league of the vortech "stage 1"

he's probably making 320-330whp and a solid 320 tq
while the base vortech is usually making around 320whp and 280 tq, but if there's belt issues and not tuned, I wouldn't be suprised if it's even less
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Old Oct 14, 2006 | 11:22 AM
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How much slack does your belt have? I'm wondering if it's too tight. Or one of your pulleys could be a little loose.
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Old Oct 14, 2006 | 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by xav_350z
yup the belt is cut
i'll post some pics...
well they didn t tune it , they don t even have a dyno lol (nissan dealer) they just installed the ss box!
we don t have proff tuners here, they pretend to be.
i just called the guy, he told me to pass 2omorrow and he'll c what to do.
about the stillen z , yeah its manual, we both have same parts (exhaust,flywheel,clutch,) but i have HFC. ( too loud ) he smoked me even at high rpm...
i downloaded some vortech's videos. i don t have the same BOV sound...
i'll dyno my car next week, and install the gauges (boost, a/f ).
Do not boost that car untill you fix the belts
Do not boost that car untill you can confirm your A/F
Do not boost that car untill you know the SS box is working right

It sounds like the dealer had no idea what they were doing .If you dont havve a A/F gauge and the dealer doesnt have a dyno , you have no idea what its boosting , or if its building boost at all . You better find some one that knows what they are doing , or your gonna **** up your car.
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 02:03 AM
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Originally Posted by sentry65
things are starting to make sense now if he's a stage 4 stillen

yeah I'd say stillen stage 4 is out of the league of the vortech "stage 1"

he's probably making 320-330whp and a solid 320 tq
while the base vortech is usually making around 320whp and 280 tq, but if there's belt issues and not tuned, I wouldn't be suprised if it's even less
Sentry,

I think he has a chance with a good tune and 8 psi. I'm making 350 rwhp and 310 fl/lb, so he has a chance against a Stage 4, albeit from a roll and not from a dig.
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Old Oct 15, 2006 | 01:05 PM
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10x a lot guys for all ur advice, i took some pics today i'll post them asap...
i'm takin the car back to the shop 2morrow morning. i'll keep u posted
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 08:56 PM
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Ask them to check the FMU lines to make sure it is not on backwards. We ran into that a couple times where the FMU lines were on incorrectly and the car actually felt as if it was N/A. Once they switched it to how it should be, the car ran 60HP more than the first dyno run.

If you want to eliminate the air venting sound while driving then you might want to check out the by-pass valve filter. It will muffle the sound a little.

The woosh sound when changing gears usually is when you are stepping hard on the gas and pretty much changing gears in the higher RPM range in the higher boost levels. Usually when I change gears and I'm not heavly on the gas I really don't hear much of the by-pass valve sound.

Last edited by ForceInduction; Oct 16, 2006 at 09:00 PM.
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Old Oct 16, 2006 | 09:23 PM
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3.12 pulley, spacer/manifold, headers, tune = 50whp
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Old Oct 17, 2006 | 12:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Vash350Z
3.12 pulley, spacer/manifold, headers, tune = 50whp
ordered but not the headers...
i have the hks dual exhaust and crawford HFC, its too loud! i guess i'm gonna go back to stock cats.

@ForcedInduction : 10x for the advice, i'll go to the shop today and take a look.
btw, what about replacing vortech's bypass valve with greddy RS or HKS ??
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