To make it a bolt on affair, all you would need would be a set of the newer APS manifolds, and their remote wastegate piping setup. Then weld shut your internal gate, and thats it.

I have a funny feeling, that APS will be offering this as an option in the future.

 

I hope they offer it soon....I really don't want to deal with the actuators...

 

I asked Peter about external wastegates on the other forum and he said they had no plans for it. He could have just told me to buy the extreme parts.

 

God knows what that will cost Ala carte' A set of Tial 38mm WG's and a couple of steel flanges and some piping should do the trick. A flange can be welded ontot he existing APS manifolds, you just need to be careful doing it, to ensure a good weld.

 

Not to knock you or your welding abilities but I would be wary of trying to weld steel onto a Cast ductile manifold. Even if it initially goes well it would have a MUCH higher probablility of failing later. I've seen several people try to do this succefully in other platforms and it usually doesn't turn out too well. The APS manifolds may be pricey but from a longevity point of view would be the best bet in moving to a external gate. That or fabbing up your own SS manifolds which might even be cheaper then the APS ones. Shouldn't cost much to weld a simple log manifold from SS304 or 321 since you already have the APS cast ones to use as a guide...

 

I had the same idea...let me know what parts you use, please- as I will probably go this route as well...internal wastegates are really a lame design!

but, the ball bearing turbos are a plus, so from my greddy kit switching to an aps, I basically did a plus1 and a minus 1...I'm right back where I started!

-TODD

 

This is true.. Might have to do that..

 

I would have stayed with the greddy power wise..

 

I like the engineering of the APS kit, fits together better, like the ball bearing turbos, as I had my greddy turbos rebuilt 3 times! turbo seals just weren't holding up

so after driving with a smoking turbo seal damaged high horsepower car, I was happy to go to APS... now the actuator issue..come on people, engineer a kit that works!!! we are doing all of the R & D for these companies, a kickback would be nice

 

This is what I was pissed about when Ted at SP was supposed to be boosting 17-23lbs on BigBri and Marins cars, and I couldn't make more than 17lbs on mine with the heavier Garrett actuators. So, I switched to the Forge actuators and nothing changed. While I was doing it, I installed the APS 3.5" down-pipes and the 3" exhaust, thinking backpressure might be a factor. I'm still maxed-out at 17lbs. If somebody gets a price on the APS extreme manifolds with the external wastegates, please post it up!

 

I expect a royalty check soon

 

check this kit out, how do you guys think it compares to the APS TT,
this solves the actuator problem.
http://www.ultimate-racing.com/Produ...gradeKit.shtml

 

Yeah guys, I know you love it when I chime in. On my street car the evc IV was the only controller I got work reliably. Every two months it would start getting crazy and I would just re-learn it....So onto my race car, I never ever was able to control boost with internal swing type wastegates. I used and evc III (which was the bomb) and evc IV, a profec B and finally and AVC-r all to no avail. Then I discovered the $70 turbo XS boost controller....The problem is solved!!!! The split down-pipes that seperate exhaust gases coming out of the turbine housing were supposed to work, but I never had them...and these smallish aps turbos have to be nearing their max, so boost control isn't going to be accurate..

 

i was running 20psi with the forge actuators- but this was the spring set boost- not with a controller, will have my car up and running tomorrow, and i tested the actuators to 17psi, we'll see if i can control them with a boost controller to make 20psi

 

Todd, did you drop the turbos to work on the actuators, or just leave everything in place? I can't imagine they'd be too easy to access with the turbos still installed....

 

Only one person on these boards to my knowledge has ever installed this kit so I have no idea what to say about it.

 

I have done it, just took a few hours. The drivers side doesnt require any dissassembly at all, just take off the actuator and put the new one on. Keep in mind, its easier said then done. its a huge pain in the *** getting the tools and your hands in there.

the passenger side is easy, just more time consuming. Take out the alternator, and bingo, your right there! Your in tight space and a set of small *** wrenchs is what you need. NOTE, I was in the middle of changing out the radiator for an upgrade at the same time. I do not know if you can take out the alternator with the radiator and fans still installed - im not sure if i ever have.

Honestly, the part that was the most tedious for me, was dealing with the small cir-clips that attach the actuator rods to the wastegate levers.

 

i pulled my motor out to inspect a few other things...changed em with the motor out- piece of cake

 

I just called Z1 770.838.7777, some guy kinda of a dick told me that APS makes upgraded actuators, I asked him how much $ and didn't know, but they are available so he says, then he told me that they have them in their car that make 570 (stock motor) at the wheels @12psi.

based on that statement I don't think this is 100% accurate or is he about the APS actuctors??

 

you mean Z1 in atlanta?

if so stay away, stay far away.