570@12psi on a stock motor..I would think you would picking up your rods and pistons with a broom and dust pan..

 

No way, I saw it. It had FIVE turbonators and a DPS box...

 

It was probably one pass on the dyno wth C16. Anything is possible...once or twice.

 

Well We just replaced our forged actuators today with one that work..Now the problem is, we cant build "Enough" boost..My boost peaks only at 14psi, but takes till 4900-5000 to build now I suspect we need a bit more tension on the springs..Which may be what tore the diaphrams in the first place..External wastegate set ups really SUCK

 

i suggest you convert those bad boys to dual port wastegates

thats one thing i did notice while changing the springs, there is no piece of metal to take the pressure of the spring off the diaphragm, the spring sits right on the diaphragm, thats gotta be whats causing them to tear.

 

Another option is to use a split dump pipe design and weld on an external wasstegate flange onto the wastegate gump outlet. Remove the internal gate flapper and u are set. THis will allow the best boost control without moving to an externals/manifold setup. the hard part is getting a nice seal on the split dump, which can be hard depending on the turbine housing design.

And also, any welder worth there money can weld steel to iron. U Must heat and cool it properly, but it can be done reliably without doubt.

 

I've never seen a shop locally do it and do it right. Heating the iron to the proper temp and cooling it can be done but if you screw it up at all prepare for cracked welds. I'm saying it would be MORE reliable to either make then entire manifold cast or out of SS321 or 304

 

hahahahha

 

You know what I find funny..Companies that manufacture CAST manifolds claim CAST to be Superior and less prone to cracking than Tubular designs..And companies that manufacture tubular manifolds claim their designs to be better and less prone to cracking than CAST manifolds..
I have seen both designs fail, so it seems as if it is "hit or miss" when it comes to a good manifold. I had a severe crack in my CAST manifolds when I pulled my motor last year to do my heads..I never would have known if I had not pulled my motor to do my heads.

 

Well for all intents and purposes a properlly designed cast manifold should last forever. The problem is its not nearly as easy to weld to it so if you don't include bracing in your mold for the manifold its basically relying on its own structural integrity to hold it up unless you can find a way to brace it to the block. Although I will say most cast iron manifolds are strong enough to hold up for almost ever if there is not too much weight on them. A lot of companies prefer them because they can be made quickly once the mold is made and the process can be repetead very accurately as there will be no variance in them. No chance for someone to weld them a little off, heat to warp the flat surface of a flange, etc. The downside is they can't always be made in the design you want and I have yet to see an equal length Cast manifold and sincerely doubt it can be done correctly. Stainless is nice because it offers you a lot of flexibilty in the manifold to account for vehicle variance and future design changes but suffers from the above listed issues. In the end a properlly designed cast or stainless manifold are just as good. For this application I would do a stainless setup. For the simple fact that APS is charging an arm and a leg for the Extreme manifolds.

 

Old thread but any new updates on better actuators or ideas???
brooke

 

EXTERNAL WASTEGATES are made for a reason..

 

Thanks but no help... I pickup my built motor next week and need a plan for more boost. I do not want to waste money on actuators since I know they will fail... Where's peter when you need him?? Surely they would have known their customers were going to raise the boost so why not have options to them??


brooke

 

Peter was banned 2 years ago..lol , you could try the forged actuators or go with the ones tha Mia posted.
http://www.forgemotorsport.com/

 

this is peter youre talking about, they make them, but they cost 2000 dollars, and youre gonna have to wait 6 months to get them. its just another addition to the kit.

 

I'm using the VSS to control my auto door locking system with no problems at all. There is an actual VSS wire, it just doesn't run to the ECU.

 

Does it run to the BCM?

 

To my knowledge it doesn't, but it does run to the A/C controller. It also runs to the Navi (if equipped) and a few other various places. The best bet is right at the AC controller though, and I believe in my '04 G35 it was a white/green wire.

 

interesting....

 

On the G35 Coupe it is the white/green wire that runs to the A/C display up to were the clock is.

I just tapped it the other day for my Avic Z1, works great

-George