how much HP do you put down..and how much did the stage 4 cost if you don't mind me askin.

 

Best advice that I can give you before dropping a boatload of your hard earned cash on anything is to read the following which is a good read:

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/50429-new-350z-owners-read-this-before-doing-any-modifications-to-your-z.html

After you fully understand what you are up against, set a budget & then a goal for your car. GL!

 

thank you for all of your responses, i appreciate the serious advice. I was hoping to stay below 5k after everything, but that does not seem realistic. i have 60kmiles on my z and can't afford a new motor if mines goes. I'll probably stay na, and rebuild the motor when it decides to go.
Thanks Again.
Mike

 

Last dyno was around 310HP/305TQ I believe. I live in Denver (mile above sea-level) so these results would probably be a good bit better with this same set up at sea-level. As a comparison, my baseline dyno when I was stock was about 235HP (don't recall TQ).

I believe the Stage 4 setup (including install, and buying and painting the hood) ran me around $7,500. So as people will point out, for the amount of $ I paid you could buy and install other kits (TN, Vortech) that will make more power. But like I said before, what I think people forget to account for is how much money you spend AFTER the install. I've spent all of about $600 in two years on belts and the fuel seal repair. My guess is w/ other setups you'll be spending way more than that over 2 year period.

 

I'm glad to see that you are making a sensible, realistic decision on this. Better to be a little disappointed now than to be stubborn, do it wrong, and end up spending $10k for an f/i kit, then a subsequent new engine and install after it blows up from cutting a corner trying to go the "cheap" route.

You should consider nitrous though.

 

There is a good way to go that is somewhat costly but in the end can offer a ton of reliablity and safety. You could always get your engine built with new rods, pistons and head studs before FI. Just get some JE pistons in stock compression that way you don't have to get any tuning done and can drive around like stock. Then as long as you don't plan on over 450whp on pump gas when the time comes for FI you can have great reiablity and safety if you have a good tune.

 

if you stay NA go with the 3.9 final drive and that will help you out as well.

 

This is a great option. Yet, be warned that your top speed will be less and your gas milage will also be reduced.

 

lower top speed yes - but even with that, it still goes much faster than one would likely ever go

Gas mileage wise, I can personally attest that my car gets them same 320 miles per tank in a mix of local and highway driving, tank after tank, both before the gears were installed and afterwards

 

well you can still go 168mph with the 3.9 FD on a 287hp engine at 6600 rpms...stock 6MT final drive is actually geared to go to 186mph. You're just speed limited to 160mph

the rev up would be even higher at 179mph with the 3.9 FD
stock final drive in a 6MT is geared to go 198mph...you'll never reach that though without a LOT more power


the vortech has been good to me though, but most people want turbos for the midrange punch

 

With around $1,500 in good qualtiy reliable parts. You could have a reliable nitrous system if done right and youll be running 12's easily.

 

sorry buddy you a couple of months late

 

Subscribed. Thanks for the tips

 

The following words should not even be in the same sentence: Cheap,Reliable,forced induction

 

So many people don't understand that Nitrous IS F/I.

And it's by far the cheapest.

 

And the most unreliable and unpredictible method by far..

 

have $10k or go home imo

 

Try the new "cardboard supercharger". It's the cheapest FI you can get.

 

+1
good choice, glad to see someone with sensibility when asking this question!

 

and you forgot "reliable"