Limit of stock head gasket under boost...?
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
The upper pan can remain, but the lower pan needs to be removed to access two bolts running through the front timing cover. The front timing cover has to be removed, and trying to change the headgasket, studs, etc...with the engine inside the car is torture......so.....we remove the engine in order to facilitate this process.
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Originally Posted by Audible Mayhem
i cant believe this is even a debate, the hks are around 300 dollars, my engine was FULLY built, darton sleeved by darton, arias ED pistons, pauter rods, 1/2 inch head studs tqed down to 105-110. with cometic (cosworth) headgaskets...
well i am pulling my motor back out tomorrow to replace them, its sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much work to replace such an inexpensive item.
i will be replacing it with HKS and i will be pushing the limits of them as well.
btw, the headgaskets failed at 17 psi and around 70 shot of nitrous....
unless you can do all your own work and have friends at a machine shop to check your block and heads when your headgasket fails for free, then go ahead and spend the extra 300 dollars on your 5000+ motor build...
well i am pulling my motor back out tomorrow to replace them, its sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much work to replace such an inexpensive item.
i will be replacing it with HKS and i will be pushing the limits of them as well.
btw, the headgaskets failed at 17 psi and around 70 shot of nitrous....
unless you can do all your own work and have friends at a machine shop to check your block and heads when your headgasket fails for free, then go ahead and spend the extra 300 dollars on your 5000+ motor build...
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
The upper pan can remain, but the lower pan needs to be removed to access two bolts running through the front timing cover. The front timing cover has to be removed, and trying to change the headgasket, studs, etc...with the engine inside the car is torture......so.....we remove the engine in order to facilitate this process.
we tried this a few times, so tricky to keep the front upper oil pan crescent seal in place, it IS just easier to pull the entire upper oil pan off, pull the front timing cover, then when putting back together, there is no doubt that the upper oil pan is sealing in the front (and back for that matter as well)
-TODD
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Originally Posted by jkenefic
I do happen to do all of my own work... When this engine build happens I will be putting it together aside from the short block. Labor is really not a concern of mine, it is the down time required to to the work.
I was just looking from some data points to see if anyone else out there was still using the OE gasket with success... Based on the feed back looks like the HKS is the way to go.
I was just looking from some data points to see if anyone else out there was still using the OE gasket with success... Based on the feed back looks like the HKS is the way to go.
let us know if you still need that shortblock, will have a few done next week
-TODD
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Originally Posted by BrianLG35C
So L-19s are not enough?
we happen to use 1/2" head studs on pretty much ALL of our builds, not much more expensive...we install steel inserts in the aluminum blocks, and the 1/2" studs are rated to 100ft lbs of tq with ARP moly lube and 120 with motor oil!!!...we tested the threads in the aluminum block a while back, at 100ft lbs,. the threads started to strip... really a matter of preference, the 1/2" are better, but necessary? time will tell
Brian, can't wait to see you back on the road
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Originally Posted by BrianLG35C
So L-19s are not enough?
Last edited by Sharif@Forged; 12-29-2006 at 07:23 AM.
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
<snip>If you do the 1/2 inch studs, just make sure that a GOOD shop, such as Todd or GTM installs them. We dont want to see anymore crooked studs!
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Originally Posted by 350zDCalb
not to relive the scenario..but what happened? You had 1/2" head studs installed and they were crooked? please recap
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Originally Posted by BamBam
I had the uprated ARP 1/2 inch headstuds w/helicoils. And yes they were installed incorrectly (or at least they were not straight). I am really not sure if the methods to install them were correct or not, but the results were the studs were not straight/perpendicular like they should have been..) –B
I remember the story of your motor issues, glad everything is up and running....yah, we have a very expensive set of custom plates and tooling made to install these studs
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Originally Posted by 350zDCalb
half the problem was the helicoils! ...timeserts are the way to go!
I remember the story of your motor issues, glad everything is up and running....yah, we have a very expensive set of custom plates and tooling made to install these studs
I remember the story of your motor issues, glad everything is up and running....yah, we have a very expensive set of custom plates and tooling made to install these studs
As for the helicoils, I heard pros and cons from a # of people, I don't think that is what caused my problems, but next time around I will be using timeserts
As for the equipment, that was a big mistake on my part.... IF you have this done PLEASE< PLEASE, make sure they have the right equipment to do this and don't just find a shop that wants to use a standard drill press... Use a shop that has the right equipment and has experience in doing this specific job on many types of blocks. Otherwise it might cost you your block and a lot of downtime and extra $$$$
--B
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in my old setup, i put 500whp with 12psi, and the stock gasket was there.
no problems, IMOP if u tune the car and pull the correct timing, there will be no problems.
but still what makes u go with a stock gasket ??
for me, im in kuwait and i dont have any moded gaskets, so thats why i used a stock one.
HKS all the way
no problems, IMOP if u tune the car and pull the correct timing, there will be no problems.
but still what makes u go with a stock gasket ??
for me, im in kuwait and i dont have any moded gaskets, so thats why i used a stock one.
HKS all the way