So I just had a new engine install and I have only 80 mile on the breakin.

During that time I have been throwing a few codes mainly dealing with the right primary O2 being in a closed loop. But here is the funny thing though the car was throwing a P0300 random multi missfire. That changed to a P0302 Multi missfire in Clyinder 2. That was on and off then the car went into limp mode and would not accelerate past 2200 RPM.

The car ran like p!ss and was stuttering badly. I checked it witha reader and a P0340 came up Cam Sensor Phase on the right side came up. Here is the funny thing car is not making vaccum. WTF!!!

Its only pulling 5in/hg when it is usualy arround 16 to 17. I tried the simple stuff and tonight Im gonna try reseating the sensor connector to try and clear the P0340, but the vaccum thing got me scratching my head. Could it be some of the IC piping comming loose?

Kinda sounds like a few problems compounded not just one. So GURU's What do you think?

 

Make sure all the wires are connected correctly.

 

What ever it ends up being , it doesnt sound good . From what your describing , sounds like the cams are off . Something wasnt installed right or tightened up right and now has moved . Hopefully I'm wrong and you just had some vacuum line fall off or something

 

From shat I've seen all the Vac lines are good. All are zip tied tight to prevent slipage. It got too dark too quick yesterday before I could check a few other things.

Today I'll check on the Vac lines and take a look at the IC piping the best I can with out a jack. The car is in a parking lot by my work. Dont realy want to drive it until I know whats wrong or got a decent idea atleast.

As for the wires that would only the P0340 (Possibly), but not the vac issue. Again I'll give her a good once over today and let you know what I find.

 

Vacuum on my Z is 20-21. I wouldnt think that loose IC Piping would affect your vacuum but rather just provide less boost under throttle. How long did you get to drive your Z before these problems started?

 

DTC P0340, P0345 CMP SENSOR (PHASE) PFP:23731
Component Description ABS000Y4
The camshaft position sensor (PHASE) senses the retraction with
intake valve camshaft to identify a particular cylinder. The camshaft
position sensor (PHASE) senses the piston position.
When the crankshaft position sensor (POS) system becomes inoperative,
the camshaft position sensor (PHASE) provides various controls
of engine parts instead, utilizing timing of cylinder identification
signals.
The sensor consists of a permanent magnet and Hall IC.
When engine is running, the high and low parts of the teeth cause
the gap with the sensor to change.
The changing gap causes the magnetic field near the sensor to
change.
Due to the changing magnetic field, the voltage from the sensor changes.


Possible causes

Harness or connectors
(The sensor circuit is open or shorted)
Camshaft position sensor (PHASE)
Camshaft (Intake)
Starter motor (Refer to SC-10 .)
Starting system circuit (Refer to SC-10 .)
Dead (Weak) battery

 

Less than 80 miles. Thats what I thought about the IC piping. I was just grasping at straws because I'm scratching my head at this one.

 

The camshaft related code, usually means that the timing is off, or the camshaft position sensor, or the cam phasing solenoid is bad, damaged, shorted, or simply unplugged. Let us know what you find out.

In regards to vaccum, I would check your gauge, as the car should make some kind of vaccum while the engine is running...even if there is some other problem.

 

A vacuum gage is a good diagnostic tool if u know how to read it ----It will tell u if timeing is off or a valve is sticking or a dozen other things----Point is, If ur vacuum is low, it may be because the valve train is out of sync or another Mech prob rather than a vacuum leak.

If u dont have a properly running motor,it will produce low vacuum

 

Correct, but he said his running engine was producing no vaccum. Even a poorly running engine will produce some vaccum. So he might want to check his gauge first.

But absolutely, low vaccum is definately an issue. It could be something as simple as a vaccum leak, or something more severe.

 

I thought he had said it was pulling 5 inches

 

if its running, its pulling vacuum... sounds like a timing issue, did it run like crap since the initial start up??



the IC piping pre maf will just not allow you to get into boost if it wasnt fastened correctly, if it was post maf, then the car wouldnt run.

 

it has been running like crap the whole time just throwing diffrent codes. Issues with idel and stalling, the Rev limmiter has been raised so thats not an issue.

Originaly there were loose connections in the ignition wiring (due to a bad situation on my part) but those were fixed by the shop.

The vacuum problem started the same time that it started acting up. The other morning throwing the P0302. The P0302 went away but havnt driven it enough to have it throw again. After the P0340 was thrown and cleared it hasnt come back but it still runs like ****.

The vac guage reacts to the studdering and stalling fluctuating with the pulses in the RPMS.

 

sorry to hear about your problems! was the cam sensore damaged in any way prior to install? dropped? chasing a vacuum leak is always a PITA...can make a fitting to connect to intercooler pipes and then pressurize with air to see if you can reveal a leak..or a smoke machine; pumps smoke through the closed intake piping- will see smoke come out if there is a leak...

keep me posted...we had one motor long ago that had a timing issue because of a faulty dowel pin on the intake cam sprocket...we have taken several measures to prevent a problem like this ever again...so rule out evrything before any suspicion of timing issue (we have a VERY meticulous method for setting/ checking timing).

good luck
TODD

 

I threw a code right after my TT install - don't remember the exact code (cam position sensor if I remember right), anyway I tracked it down to a cam sensor on the front driver's side by the intake tube - the bolt on the intake pressed against the release on the electrical plug, causing it to work itself a hair loose. I reversed the bolt, plugged the connector all the way in, and no more problem.

 

I didnt realize that Todd timed this engine. If that was the case..I am sure the timing is fine.

The camshaft position sensors, and crank position sensors...in fact....most of the 350Z sensors are EXTREMELY fragile. If you drop them on the ground, you are supposed to replace them. I would start by addressing the codes that you have...namely camshaft...and start in that area. Do you have a Cipher tool? If not..get one. With it, you can monitor cam phasing solenoid activity..makes it much easier to trouble shoot these types of things.

 

I have researched some flywheel install issues in the archives here and if the sensor is not close enought to the flywheel timing issues were present, even as bad as the car not starting. You may want to remove and reinstall that sensor.

 

i ahve had issues on my own personal car, dying/not starting - and it turned out to be a loose crank angle sensor... make sure it is in there good and snug. maybe you can get someone to donate their z to you for a few hours, pull the cam sensors and crank angle sensors and swap em to test and see if that was the issue... good luck

TODD

 

Hell my car is half apart at Sonic they can borrow mine if anything.

 

Well the car barely made it to the shop today. Max speed of 30mph. Backfiring, studdering and smoking alittle too; but the B!TCH made it. Hopefuly its some thing simple and can get back on the road with a quickness.