Alrighty so yesterday for the first time i got my car dyno tuned by tuan at GRD. I have the following mods : Only run to state that was a decent curve 380RWHP & 336 rwtq at 8 psi only..... didn't get a clear reading on the 9.5 psi run but we did hit it once. Isn't the 2.87 posed to get 12psi? j/w whats going on here, please read below
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NGK plugs
Megan headers
Custom exhaust true dual all the way through( no cats, have two resonators)
Unortho pulleys, ( not the crank though b/c of FI)
JDM Camshafts
Kinetix SSV
Finally Complete vortech kit with 2.87 pulley
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Now for some known problems I may have with the car :
1)Crankshaft pulley is lose, seen it wobling
2)Crankshaft seal is lose/broken, leaking oil from there and getting white smoke at full throttle sometimes
3)Belt has some spider cracks and some chips
4)Kinetix SSV Has a small dent on top but also one screw that holds it down broke off while i was retorqing(sp) it.
All this was noticed before the dyno but i had an apt and went.
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OK now for the questions


1)There Boost was very inconsistent. Anywhere from 6.5 ( one time) from 7 to 8 PSI of boost. We did however get one run with 9.5 PSI. What could cause this to happen?
2)Is the Kinetix SSV leaking boost because one hole isn't tied down
3)Am I losing boost or not getting enough because of belt slip?
4) isn't the 2.87 pulley supposed to be at 12psi?
5)My exhaust is really open , does this car or setup require alot of backpressure?

6) I was hoping along the lines of 450+rwho, but if i did get the boost to stay up I'd same I'm at that level almost? at 10psi we assumed somewhere in 430+rwp.
7)Can someone tell me what to look for to have checked/ cleaned up so i can let my mechanic know. what kind of tune up should i look at. thanks!

 

well obviously you need to get the crank pulley checked out and replace the belt if it's cracked

the 2.87 pulley gives around 12 psi of boost, but it completely depends on the exhaust setup. Regardless though it will push 12 psi worth of air into the engine, but because of the test pipes and open exhaust, it will probably read lower than 12psi - which is just a number. What's important is your hp/tq, psi be damned

the belt has to be tightened down more with the 2.87 pulley than with the others because it makes more boost. The belt could be slipping. You'll know this if you look at a graph of your boost. It should continue to rise to redline, never leveling off.

this type of SC doesn't want backpressure, but I don't think you want it to be too open either. Some exhaust setups won't scavenge the exhaust fully and actually suck out the exhaust from the engine. If your exhaust setup is too free flowing, you might not be able to build up enough speed in the exhaust. It's a balancing act. Since you have cams and headers and a huge exhaust, the test pipes are possibly hurting you with a stock blower and 2.87 pulley. You might have better luck with that setup if you were using a T-trim blower and could get more exhaust velocity going through the exhaust - that's my take on it anyway. It's not quite the same as a turbo where bigger is better

I can see the SSV leaking if one of the bolts isn't tightened down. I'd think you'd hear it leaking with a high pitched whistle though, but maybe not.

boost should not be inconsistent on a SC - something is up, might be a boost leak or belt slipping


what are JDM camshafts? how are the JDM cams different from the american cams?

 

Dude ur everywhere for FI, I love ya lol. I'm not quite sure also if theres a difference between test pipes and resonators. I had straight pipes and just two mufflers , but it was to louad so i put a resonator on each pipe lol. Think maybe theres a header leak? My previous megan test pipes cracked every other month thats why i got a custom exhaust lol.

As far as the belt slipping yap ur right though, the boost is Leveling off after 5,000 rpms. hits 8 psi and just stays level.

Can you or someone write me a list of things i should have my mechanic check out when i bring the car to him?

BTW as for the crank pulley if its loose/wobbles, I can just tighten the bolt on there right? nothing special or involved?

As for cams, I don't know how they compare, but I cant go to 7200 rpms until i get another Engine management unit, the split second wont let me do it. didnt get a chance to dyno before and after on them though. but they dont have any problems.

 

i wouldn't rev past 7000 rpms anyway unless you have a REV UP engine. Otherwise you need some stiffer valve springs.

whether the test pipes have resonators or not doesn't matter, it's still a straight through pipe without a cat to go through.

your belt is definetly slipping

I don't know if you can just tighten the crank pulley up and be done with that or not. That's a critical piece and might be worth removing and inspecting for cracks or chips etc. If all is well, have it put back on and tightened back up



list of stuff to do would be:

-look at the crank pulley and then put it back on if pulley is good

-tighten the belt, even more than you might think - or look into alternative methods of preventing slipping.

-get that SSV properly bolted down somehow, or put some metal silicon around the edge area. I'm not sure if that'll support boost, but you need something to make sure you're not leaking there. Possibly switching back to stock plenum might be a good idea if nothing can be done and it is leaking.

-tune

 

alrighty, also what kind of dyno where u dynoed on? i was on a dynopack chassis dynometer. also u have the 2,87 as well correct? i noticed 10 psi. oh the ur rwhp is right where they estimated mine to be if i was hitting 10 psi. thanks for the advice though. oh damn one last thing, whats the part # for the belt for the 2.87 pulley? and is there one brand better then the other? I'd like to get one ASAP. thanks again.

 

Hey if i remember correctly Bwicked there was a guy that was having boost issues with his Vortech and when he replaced the SSV manifold for the stock unit with MD spacer he got full boost...maybe give that a try??

 

it doesn't matter what dyno you dyno your car on as far as being able to tune it. You want a tuner who knows what he's doing though, that's the main thing so choose a shop based on that primarily. If you want the most comparable numbers to compare to everyone else online, it's best to find a dynojet. The shop I use has a dyno-dynamics dyno and it reads about 6% lower than a dynojet

I don't remember the part number for the 2.87 belt. You want it to be about 93 inches long though I think. As long as it's a 6 ribbed belt and the same width. Most people use Gates belts it seems. A lot of people buy them at NAPA auto parts.

my car is in a growing pain stage right now. It actually makes around 12 psi, but when it was last dynoed, it was slipping at 10 psi. I wasn't around to tell the shop to tighten the pulley. So I came to pick up the car, saw the dynosheet and somehow didn't think that the belt was slipping when looking at my boost graph. For some reason I figured if they were dynoing it, they would have felt the belt slip, but they didn't. When the engine is hot I was pulling consisten 420whp and 372 tq. When cold it was around 435whp and 375 tq. In theory, I should have probably hit around 440-450whp on my shop's dyno at 12 psi and the same 372-375 tq, which is probably around 470-475whp and 390-395 tq on a dynojet

Anyway, over the next two weeks some work is being done and I'm going to redyno. I'm adding water injection and a dual 2.5 exhaust vs my current nismo 3 inch exhaust. We'll see if it makes more power or not though. I have to stop there though until I build the engine. I run half race gas in my car, and the water injection will help too. As long as detonation can be prevented, I think the engine will hold a high boosted vortech setup just fine. I'd like to get a T-trim, but I don't think I'd want to run any more power than 470-500whp on the stock block

I do plan on ditching the SSV someday, possibly for that cosworth plenum. I just can't justify getting a Mrev spacer at this point since I don't have a stock upper plenum, and my lower plenum has one of the built in bolts broken on it. So I'd end up spending like $600-850 for an mrev lower plenum, stock plenum, and spacer and hassle of relocating my HKS ignition amp and fuel pressure gauge. Not worth it to me at this time

 

for the crank pulley i would suggest getting a harmonic balancer by fluidampr...i had the wobbling with my procharger ...now no belt noise and no wobbling...i wonder if they make a cog setup for you vortechs so you wouldnt have belt slippage?? ....good luck

 

Get your Crank pulley fix
if your boost levels off at 5000 rpm [1] your belt is slipping , tighten the belt [2] your SSV has a leak after boost is present in the pleanum , fix the bolt thats broken

As far as what tune you get on it...make it a safe one . The power you get out of it will depend what dyno you are one . You could dyno on one dyno and get 435whp and go to another dyno and get 380whp .Ive seen a guy complain because he made 425whp and then went to another and got 345whp both on 8psi

 

hey guys, just retuned with the 3.12 pulley on a customers vortech, with a nice safe AFR and safe timing, it put down 382hp and 330ish tq, that was all around 9 to 9.3 psi and he has crawford cats and stillen exhaust so its not flowing at all.

those are all on my dynojet. vortech rates the 3.12 pulley at 11psi when i had called them, so dont worry about the PSI, there are a lot of factors involved.

get on a dynojet though so you will have some good legit numbers to compare them to if you want to do any kind of comparison. good luck...

 

Glad to hear you got it tuned . Is this the one that thru the belt ?

 

another good question. How do i go about adding water or meth injection to my car? it adds power correct? and prevents detonation? got a link to a kit?

 

I just installed the 2.87 pulley on a customers auto coupe. He has no cats and stillen exhuast. He's only hitting 7.5 PSI at denvers altitude with the smallest pulley. He put down 345hp and 300 tq. I'll be putting the cats back in a re running and tuning it this week. Not sure what kind of dyno they had. It was above ground and one half could be moved to work with different vehicles and AWD

 

If you get a chance to look at the dyno , if the boost levels off . The belt is slipping or there is a boost leak when boost reaches a certain level . I had a boost leak [ Crawford plenum ] and it would show up until about 10psi . I had to add extra gaskets to seal it up .

Oh...345whp is right on par for that psi

 

I'll do some checkin on the boost leak. We're both happy with the numbers the car is putting down. For now anyways On the stock pulley the car was only seeing 4 psi with out the cats and 6 with them. So thats why I 'm putting the cats back in, hopefully we'll gain back that few Psi

 

Tough to check for boost leaks at the plenum if its leaking after boost is present in the plenum . There is no leak at idle or while reving it . Just leaks when boosting . I had to cap off the exhaust and make a capped off pipe with a air hose fitting in the end of it . Connected to a intercooler pipe right before the BOV. Preasurize it and a leak will show its self real quick .

 

Is this with just the stock Vortech fuel setup?

 

Is this with just the stock Vortech fuel setup?