Another APS TT problem
I'll keep this one simple so the APS bandwagon won’t try and run me over.
Yesterday I was told that the bolt and nut in the middle of my steering column was hitting the turbine housing on my APS TT kit. I was having some problems turning the steering wheel at low speeds and at higher speeds in a hard right turn to the point the steering wheel even felt like it locked up!!!
That scared me enough to garage the car a couple of months until I found out what was going on. I’m not sure if this is an isolated incident or if others have had similar problems but I would suggest APS TT owners to check under their cars and see how much clearance they have between their steering column and their turbos. Id say at least ¼” for an extra safety margin. Aging engine mounts, a hard right turn causing the engine to shift left in the bay, and counter torque from deceleration all combined to give me one nasty surprise. If this problem appeared during a track day or during a spirited cruise, it would have been very dangerous to say the least. Because I didn’t have this problem before, I’d assume it’s because my engine mounts have settled after 2 years, 34k miles, and the extra torque.
Yesterday I was told that the bolt and nut in the middle of my steering column was hitting the turbine housing on my APS TT kit. I was having some problems turning the steering wheel at low speeds and at higher speeds in a hard right turn to the point the steering wheel even felt like it locked up!!!
Damn you are lucky. I think this is the second time someone has posted something similar to this. Someone needs to contact them and notify them of the problem. I wonder if they could get sued on something like this, if someone were to have an accident.
Originally Posted by gsingh350Z
You should have SGP take a look at it and see if they have any advice to what should be done.
The clearance issue with the LHS turbo is common knowledge. The APS instructions specifically state that you must shave the knuckle. But I never thought about the effects aging motor mounts. I think it's good that you brought it up. I suppose solid motor mounts is the long term solution to this problem.
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Originally Posted by Nismo350ZRT
The clearance issue with the LHS turbo is common knowledge. The APS instructions specifically state that you must shave the knuckle. But I never thought about the effects aging motor mounts. I think it's good that you brought it up. I suppose solid motor mounts is the long term solution to this problem.
Im not claiming to be a tech or any type of expert on modding the 350Z but just FYI about my history here.
I picked up my 03 Performance on May 2003.
I installed a used ATI SC Dec 2003 myself with guidance from Julian aka Daking350Z. lol
Or i like to call dakingoftheban350z! I learned alot about FI.I tried to organize the first group buy for Pauter rods and Arias pistons on this forum but with a handle like mine, i didnt get far. Summer 2004
My car went in for the motor build August 2004. The shop that did my build, Lightspeed Performance, and machinist, Faerman Racing, gave me a huge understanding on motors.
I picked up one of the first APS TT kits Jan 2005. I think i was the first to attempt an APS TT with a built motor as far as i know on this board but because i ran into so any problem, i ended finishing it all 2nd or 3rd.
My car finally rolls out April 2005, after 100's of delays and heart aches.
Stuck on stock actuators until as of 2 weeks ago. SGP put in the Forged actuators and im looking for sub 500 rwhp and maxxing the APS injectors by next week.
If there was an hours logger on the FI section, my account would be in the top 30 i bet. I just have been quite the past few months so alot of the newer guys might think i popped out of la la land and started making unsubstantiated comments.
Last edited by Enron Exec; Feb 3, 2007 at 02:11 PM.
. Even more so for the Extreme. The Speed senesative Zs have bigger knuckles. This info is in other threads.
Not bashing, just saying.
Added: I've seen ya for a while. Strange how its strating now. Let us know if its the motor mounts or something else.
Not bashing, just saying.
Added: I've seen ya for a while. Strange how its strating now. Let us know if its the motor mounts or something else.
Last edited by Gators2001; Feb 3, 2007 at 02:11 PM.
Originally Posted by TruBluZ
Would solid motor mounts cure the problem or would you need to do some other crap to make it fit right?
For ppl like
.... id jsut weld the block together and then to the frame of the car.
Originally Posted by Enron Exec
Yes i read the instruction and yes the shop that did my install read the instructions. I wish you would stop staing the obvious to me like im some 16 year old gone wild with daddy's credit card. Im a 29 year old project engineer for an electrical firm and i have alot of hobbies. This is one of them.
Oh and thanks for not answering any of my questions.
Originally Posted by Enron Exec
For ppl with mild power goals like me, I think a good first install with an expierenced shop should be all they need. SGP shaved maybe another 1/8 off the bolt and a hair off the turbine housing. Seems to work great now.
For ppl like
.... id jsut weld the block together and then to the frame of the car.

For ppl like
.... id jsut weld the block together and then to the frame of the car.
So you have fixed the problem? has it happened again?
This is a big question< I m assuming the problem is fixed can you take an pics of what was shaved, mine is going in, in 2 weeks!!!!!!
Last edited by clemlover15; Feb 3, 2007 at 05:03 PM.
Originally Posted by clemlover15
So you have fixed the problem? has it happened again?
This is a big question< I m assuming the problem is fixed can you take an pics of what was shaved, mine is going in, in 2 weeks!!!!!!
This is a big question< I m assuming the problem is fixed can you take an pics of what was shaved, mine is going in, in 2 weeks!!!!!!
Its hard to say because this might be a case by case problem. My only advise would be to follow the APS instructions and make sure you have plenty of space between the steering column and turbo to compensate for engine torque and wear on the engine mounts. Grind off as much of the steering column as you feel safe. It sounds like alot of guess work but i dont know what else to say. Like some of the other issues ive had with the APS kit, this one is a balancing act a well.
Originally Posted by Enron Exec
Yea, as far as i know, the problem is fixed.
Its hard to say because this might be a case by case problem. My only advise would be to follow the APS instructions and make sure you have plenty of space between the steering column and turbo to compensate for engine torque and wear on the engine mounts. Grind off as much of the steering column as you feel safe. It sounds like alot of guess work but i dont know what else to say. Like some of the other issues ive had with the APS kit, this one is a balancing act a well.
Its hard to say because this might be a case by case problem. My only advise would be to follow the APS instructions and make sure you have plenty of space between the steering column and turbo to compensate for engine torque and wear on the engine mounts. Grind off as much of the steering column as you feel safe. It sounds like alot of guess work but i dont know what else to say. Like some of the other issues ive had with the APS kit, this one is a balancing act a well.
do you think a engine damper would help here,
Also please PM other issues you had with the kit so I can plan ahead,
thanks
I had mine shaved by ZCG last week as I was getting a wierd nose when turning right only, I was told that this job had been done already when I got the APS TT installed but of course it was not.
THe LHS steering shaft contact issue is common and I also experience it under hard right turns and especially during engine braking. Also note the first generation of APS 3.5" Test pipes are also very close to the steering shaft on G35s, so that is another contention for G owners. Statically I have lots of clearance. The OEM motor mounts just flex too much when torqued. I am attemting to mount a stillen damper, however, it requires relocation of the lower mount point mounting since the RHS APS intake pipe is in the way.
Another altenative may be to make stiffer (~urethane) , not solid, mounts.
Another altenative may be to make stiffer (~urethane) , not solid, mounts.
Last edited by G3po; Feb 3, 2007 at 10:57 PM.
Originally Posted by Nismo350ZRT
What did SGP do to fix the problem? Shim? New motor mount?
Originally Posted by Enron Exec
SGP shaved maybe another 1/8 off the bolt and a hair off the turbine housing. Seems to work great now.
Originally Posted by Nismo350ZRT
Oh and thanks for not answering any of my questions.
Originally Posted by clemlover15
do you think a engine damper would help here,
Also please PM other issues you had with the kit so I can plan ahead,
thanks
Also please PM other issues you had with the kit so I can plan ahead,
thanks
I never had any issues with the steering knuckle. I shave it during the install, just like the instruction says. You can safely shave quite a bit. I think I have about 1/2" clearence with the turbo housing.
Anyway Andy, for your APS TT install, like I told you and unlike our friends in the States, you will have to remove your block heater and plug the hole in the block.



