ok I searched in the FI forum and found nothing on this subject that answers my question. so here it is... I'm wanting to do an S/C on my Z and am stuck between the stillen stage 2 and the vortech. I know the vortech has higher peak numbers but stillen claims it has more power in the lower and mid ranges. So my question is which one would perform better 0-60 and in the quarter?

 

one other thing... how do the two compare with belt slippage issues?

 

Go with vortech.. You shoulda made this a Poll thread.. Now you will pay for it.. Because peeps on here will tell you to research....

Note: Put on your flame suit......

 

At least he asked a direct question. LOLZ

You should have done a poll if you can go back an edit it.

GO Single Turbo.

 

I have a Stage 2 and I can say it gets to 60 in a hurry. I have not driven a vortech but from what I have read its power band is longer than the stillen. the stage 2 peaks out at 4 or 5k, but by then your already at 100mph. You will get alot of different answers here. Not many slips on stillen SC on this site but there may be one or two on the vortech.

 

0-60 = Stillen. 1/4 = Vortech. Best bet IMO is the Vortech. A little more power on top, yet still "safe" on a stock motor.

 

thanx for the input

 

+1 on the 0-60 = Stillen. 1/4 = Vortech. I have driven both and installed both. The vortech bypass valve sounds cool and the top end pull is sweet. The stillen sounds sweet when you get on it. Great DD setup if you don't like to redline the engine to get in your power band. You need to figure out your vehicles final goal before picking one of these 2 kits. They each accell in different rpm ranges.

 

you can get a vortech to have equal torque at 2500 to a stillen stage 4. Above 2500 the vortech will destroy the stillen. A lot of it mainly has to do with how the vortech will actually benefit from cams, headers, and HF cats/test pipes, and a good exhaust, especially with an upgraded pulley. That's only if you're willing to put the money into it though.

otherwise the stillen has the advantage below 4500 rpms while the vortech has the advantage at WOT. Going down the 1/4 mile where you're in the WOT rpm range (4500-6600 rpms) the vortech will win.

If you have a REV UP 300 hp engine that revs up to 7000 rpms, the vortech is absolutely the SC to go with. It'll make 10 psi out of the box and a better belt design than the regular vortech kit and will shine reving from 5000-7000 rpms when going WOT

 

Well i don't have the rev up but i do have a rev limiter raised to like 7200 from AAM. How exactly do you get the vortech to have the same torque? Are you refering to the pulley upgrade? I think I want to leave the supercharger system stock and just tune it with a UTEC and use my supporting mods plus headers

 

right now i'm kinda leaning towards the vortech. Is the stillen THAT much more reliable than the vortech? and what kind of issues do people running the standard vortech, at stock psi, with a good tune run into?

 

you should do some research... having upped rev-limit and 287 rod bolts and FI is a bad combo... just talk to Alberto.

 

I personally wouldn't really do much to rev a regular stock 287 hp engine to 7200 with FI. I mean, maybe reving to 6800 or 6900 in 1st gear, but that's about where I'd stop - especially with a vortech where it'll continue to run more and more boost. Besides that, you run a higher risk of snapping your belt the higher you go. I wouldn't really do it anyway unless you at least had stiffer valve springs and cams to get the heat out of the engine faster and water injection to help cooling

well I should make a correction, I have seen ONE stillen stage 4 dyno where it was making 35 tq more than my car at 2500 rpms and we didn't match up until 3200 rpms. But the other stillen stage 4 dynos I've seen I've had close to equal tq at 2500 rpms and then I went up as the stillen gradually went down as rpms rose.

It varies though as each car and dyno are different, it's hard to compare, but roughly 2500-3300 rpms I have equal tq to at least a stillen stage 2 dyno. Depending on what clutch you get and how you set your idle, you may never actually drive the car below 2000 rpms - I don't with my setup anyway. Also if you ever got a 3.9 final drive, that really seems to help vortech setups if your tires are decently sticky. That'd add 10.7% more gear tq to the wheels and that REALLY helps with the car at low rpms - that'll easily make up for any engine tq difference a stillen might have over a vortech at low rpms.

It's expensive than just getting a stillen stage 2, but you can get decent results with the vortech's low end. All you gotta do with a vortech to get a lot of tq down low with a vortech is to get a 2.87 pulley, upgrade the fuel system, good headers, HF cats/test pipes, cams, exhaust, plenum, and tuning and you're pretty much there.


as far as reliability, that's a mixed bag IMO. The stillen's key to fame with that is the conservative tuning and its inability to make decent power up high. So if you're racing to redline the engine won't actually make much power because it'll be limited by the stock headers, cats, cams and the blower which runs out of breath.

The vortech's key to fame with reliability is that at low -mid rpms it's not really stressing the engine much. Up high it does some, but it only occurs when you're racing

either one can blow your engine if it's not tuned and maintained right

 

A big negative to me about the Stillen was the requirement to get the Stillen hood, or at least the bubble. The Vortech can be more stealthy, except for the noise of course.

 

vortech or procharger....hehe ....they BOTH MAKE REAL POWER ...stillen talks about their gains and no one has got to the 400whp club.....even stage 4....NO BUBBLE ....lol

 

My question would be, how good are you and what tires/camber settings do you run? Id think the Stillen 0-60 if nottied, and the Vortech easy down the 1/4...but again its all up to your abilities and your set-up.

LOL +1

 

This subject has been beaten to death. Good info. in here, but definitely take the time to do a search. Even in this sub-forum, there have been several threads with great info comparing the two.

 

I was thinking about the whole raised rev limiter thing earlier today, I know the higher the rpms go the more boost an S/C puts out. Maybe I'll just get my car detuned or just not ever take it close to the rev limit... OR maybe I'll build. Wonder how much that would cost me

 

any ideas of what extent i would need to build my motor for something like this and what it would cost?

With the raised rev limiter would I be better suited for a turbo running like 7 psi?

 

If you can stand the dam rattle, go vortech. I would go TN ST if i could do it over again.