Motor Oil for FI
#41
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Originally Posted by USN HM 350Z
Motul is a full synthetic motor oil that is Ester based. Basicly the motor oil will last a lot longer than most anything else on the market. It leaves a film on the internals that help lubricate during cold start (RP does this also). Oil anaylsis will show Motul to break down less than most anything else on the market.
I was actually reading the Ester based info.. I get RP for 7 dollars per bottle on post + Motul is 35 here (Forged Price)=hard decision... I just tried AMS and it actually didnt feel as good as RP (I also lost 5-6 whp on dyno after changing to AMS + adding HFCs)..... I spent 70 bucks on that oil change.. This time Im doing it myself and using a K&N oil filter 1008... Price will be about 35 for oil + 15 for Oil Filter= about 55 bucks after using the lift on post(5 bucks).. Saves me 30 bucks from Jiffys 80 Dollar RP Oil change....
Last edited by Jay'Z; 02-20-2007 at 02:55 PM.
#42
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Hey Sharif, as of right now I am using Mobil 1 but I read about it changing the composition recently and I want to get out of it!
I plan to do mild FI in the future (380-400WHP) as of right now I have intake, exhaust, plenum spacer...I drive my car hard but dont do crazy track events with it.
Is the Motul 8100 Full Synth. 5W40 good for me to start using now?
Thanks
Chad m
I plan to do mild FI in the future (380-400WHP) as of right now I have intake, exhaust, plenum spacer...I drive my car hard but dont do crazy track events with it.
Is the Motul 8100 Full Synth. 5W40 good for me to start using now?
Thanks
Chad m
#43
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Originally Posted by 03redlineZ
Hey Sharif, as of right now I am using Mobil 1 but I read about it changing the composition recently and I want to get out of it!
I plan to do mild FI in the future (380-400WHP) as of right now I have intake, exhaust, plenum spacer...I drive my car hard but dont do crazy track events with it.
Is the Motul 8100 Full Synth. 5W40 good for me to start using now?
Thanks
Chad m
I plan to do mild FI in the future (380-400WHP) as of right now I have intake, exhaust, plenum spacer...I drive my car hard but dont do crazy track events with it.
Is the Motul 8100 Full Synth. 5W40 good for me to start using now?
Thanks
Chad m
#46
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As good as oils are today, you should really run no thicker than 5-30. I'm even toying with the idea of running 0-20 synthetic. Thinner oils can dissipate heat much faster than thicker oils as well. Bearing clearances are matched to thinner oils.
my $.02
Mike
my $.02
Mike
#47
Originally Posted by Mike@IOS
As good as oils are today, you should really run no thicker than 5-30. I'm even toying with the idea of running 0-20 synthetic. Thinner oils can dissipate heat much faster than thicker oils as well. Bearing clearances are matched to thinner oils.
my $.02
Mike
my $.02
Mike
#48
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10-30 full syntethic is perfectly fine even with the extreme heat of arizona...
you coudl run 5w30...but youd end up chaning that oil a li sooner than heavier one....
bottom line is...who ever does install your turbo kit, ask him and take his advice PERIOD
you coudl run 5w30...but youd end up chaning that oil a li sooner than heavier one....
bottom line is...who ever does install your turbo kit, ask him and take his advice PERIOD
#52
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Originally Posted by Mike@IOS
As good as oils are today, you should really run no thicker than 5-30. I'm even toying with the idea of running 0-20 synthetic. Thinner oils can dissipate heat much faster than thicker oils as well. Bearing clearances are matched to thinner oils.
my $.02
Mike
my $.02
Mike
#53
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Originally Posted by BriGuyMax
For most of the guys with built motors on here that's not true. Our motors are built with wider bearing clearances than factory specs. Thus a thicker weight oil is a very good idea.
The trend is to use a thinner weight for slightly less rotational drag. But with the power levels we are at, I would glad trade 1% power, for better extreme use protection on the track.
Again...just my opinion. When we build the engines, this is what we suggest.....but you should trust your engine builder.
#54
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Originally Posted by Sharif@Forged
.....but you should trust your engine builder.
+1 but keep in mind when you speak of protection at the track.....i mean most poeple dont track more than 3-4 times a year
at some point its preference.
#55
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Originally Posted by Cannysage
you kidding? for an FI engine?
factory clearances are tight these days..... check out this quote from http://www.aa1car.com/library/oil_viscosity.htm
"For sustained high temperature, high load operation, an even heavier oil may be used in some situations. Some racing engines use 20W-50, but this would only be recommended for an engine with increased bearing clearances. Increasing the viscosity of the oil also increases drag and friction, which can sap horsepower from the crankshaft. That's why 20W-50 racing oil would not be the best choice for everyday driving or cold weather operation for most vehicles. The latest trend in racing is to run tighter bearing clearances and use thinner oils such as 5W-30 or 5W-20 to reduce friction and drag."
If you have a engine built with opened up clearances than yes I would go thicker, instead I run a quality synthetic in my cars at the recommended viscosity.
#56
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Originally Posted by Mike@IOS
not kidding....
factory clearances are tight these days..... check out this quote from http://www.aa1car.com/library/oil_viscosity.htm
"For sustained high temperature, high load operation, an even heavier oil may be used in some situations. Some racing engines use 20W-50, but this would only be recommended for an engine with increased bearing clearances. Increasing the viscosity of the oil also increases drag and friction, which can sap horsepower from the crankshaft. That's why 20W-50 racing oil would not be the best choice for everyday driving or cold weather operation for most vehicles. The latest trend in racing is to run tighter bearing clearances and use thinner oils such as 5W-30 or 5W-20 to reduce friction and drag."
If you have a engine built with opened up clearances than yes I would go thicker, instead I run a quality synthetic in my cars at the recommended viscosity.
factory clearances are tight these days..... check out this quote from http://www.aa1car.com/library/oil_viscosity.htm
"For sustained high temperature, high load operation, an even heavier oil may be used in some situations. Some racing engines use 20W-50, but this would only be recommended for an engine with increased bearing clearances. Increasing the viscosity of the oil also increases drag and friction, which can sap horsepower from the crankshaft. That's why 20W-50 racing oil would not be the best choice for everyday driving or cold weather operation for most vehicles. The latest trend in racing is to run tighter bearing clearances and use thinner oils such as 5W-30 or 5W-20 to reduce friction and drag."
If you have a engine built with opened up clearances than yes I would go thicker, instead I run a quality synthetic in my cars at the recommended viscosity.
#58
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im running the amsoil tso ow30 right now on a greddy tt and stock block, I'm going to be building the block in a few months so which oil should I switch to? I'd like to stick with amsoil as I've heard nothing but good things.
#60
Vendor - Former Vendor
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From the testing we have done (along with GurgenPB) Mobil 1 0-40w seems the be the best oil and has show extremely good test results even after a track event and 3,000 miles of street driving. We have not tested the Motul 300V but we will soon. the Mobil 1 0-40 is completely different than they 5-30 and others since it is a true synthetic and it is a european blend, the Castrol USN HM 350Z speaks of is also great, if you can find it.
-George
GT Motorsports
-George
GT Motorsports