They are made from solid billet as they are still light weight and they are strong as can be not to mention much stronger than an aluminum tube would be.

That works! I would personally make a new one since IMO it is easier to start from scratch then to modify something. However, maybe that is just how I am. Some people are better at modifying an exsisting part while some people are better at making their own from scratch. Your way will be no doubt cheaper but you may want to see if you have any local welders that may be able to help you out for a fair price. The added cost of having it done may offset the added hassle of modifying the stock part.

In your case, and this is just my opinion, but I would use a tubular cross member with welded in solid motor mounts so in essence your engine just bolts up to the crossmember. Like for example, if this were swaping a VQ into another car I would take off the stock hydraulic mounts and the upper aluminum pieces that connect to the top of the hydraulic mounts and the block under the exhaust manifolds. Then I would integrate the crossmember with welded in tubes/plates that bolt directly to the side of the block (with added gussets for strength).

The nice thing about doing something like this is that it is much easier to make something beefy that doesn't way alot since you are able to distribute the stress over a larger area of the crossmember. Basically it comes down to using stronger materials, thicker material, or finding a way to distribute the stress over a broader area.

The only other advantage that I see to a tubular cross member is that it will be much more strong. Once you start cutting into the cross member there is a good chance that you will reduce its strength by quite a bit. To counter actt his you will have to add more weight by gusseting certain parts in order to make up for the loss in strength that was gained by the stock "U" design. On top of that it may actually allow you to drop the engine further down for a lower CG.

Good luck on your project and feel free to PM me if you have any questions or would like some ideas. Maybe I could see if I can get something welded up cheap for you. I know some people.

 

well, as far as the mounts go, the ones i make are 1 5/8" dom chrome moly centers and 3/16" laser cut end caps. i could not even imagine what the compressive failure point of it would be, but i think you would need a building or something of the sort to set on it to effect it, lol. the hardware i use is also 7/16" grade 8, so you would need to figure the failure point of ripping it apart under elongation. believe me, it is far greater than anything you can through at it.

 

SVRT engine mounts...

 

^^^^CRAP!

Lol. JK. Scott is an awesome guy! That dude has gotten under his car to measure stuff for me before and he puts out a great product!