edit-Im retarded I need to minimize the attachment will be a few...

As most of you know I am running a relatively new set-up. To provide some background info on the oil and break-in--->Break-in was relatively quick 100-200 miles of street and dyno break in. That was followed by a change of oil to regular dino oil again by Sharif at the end of the intial break-in. Car was then tuned and driven over 700 miles back to MD. At this point I changed to standard dino oil again just to keep the usual metal from a fresh motor out. I then proceded to drive about 1300 more miles on this now 3rd oil change and I took a sample to send to Blackstone Labs.

I am now running Motul 300V 10w-40, next change will be the higher end Motul but the name doesnt come to mind right now. I got the the report back as you can see below, and Im neither stunned, happy or worried. Keep in mind the averages are universal averages are for all gasoline engines, Im sure some oils, engine manufacturer's, have their own characteristics, let alone an aftermarket motor with aftermarket bearings/parts.

As you can see the lead was more than 3X the avg but the thing is, to better get an idea of how Im doing Id like to ask you guys all spending $10,000 + on engine builds to spend $22 on an analysis and report back to the community. I feel like with more people doing this we can have a better idea as a community what is normal or abnormal for our built VQ's.

Regarding the high levels of Potassium, Blackstone says "Potassium: Antifreeze inhibitor, additive in some oil types" Im no oil expert I dont know if this could be from additives that come in Valvoline that I ran or some other reason.

I will run the current Motul for the 3500 miles Blackstone recommended me and report back. I expect the lead levels to be down next time considerably, but until then I cant know exactly how my engine is "doing". Questions, comments, all input is appreciated

 

Alberto, What oil does Motul make that is better than the 300V??? Are you sure you don't have the Synthetic 8100 10W-40 in your car now? IIRC, 8100 5w-40 is what sharif keeps in stock. for the 300v, I thought he stocked the 15w-50.

 

I run 8100 now, I meant to say I'll be running 300V next time...

 

I am not oil analysis expert either. I am testing my oil next week. I am running 300v, and its seen 2000 street miles, and 4 brutal days at two different circuit course. My engine has about 22K miles single the sleeved build, so it will be interesting to see how the oil looks under the mass spectrometer.

I am guessing the high lead count, is the result of left over break-in, and using pretty crappy oil during the final break-in process. It will be interesting to see how it looks on the next round of Motul.

Good thing there were no traces of coolant, and very low fuel levels as well.

 

I have a whole sticky for this set up in the Engine/Drivetrain section. Please, please post this info up there. I would be happy to give a look and see what you have on your hands. This is the very reason I started that sticky, to get some solid facts on what oils are working better than others.
I can't see your UOA so I don't know what numbers you have.
I would stick with the 8100 as it is an ester blend. Full esters do not behave well for street driven vehicles that are constantly started and stopped. Even Redline is only an 18% Ester base stock. 300V is a full ester and has not done well in daily driven vehicles. I have over 50 OUA's from VQ engine's right now and am working on more. I am getting another M1 0W-40 to make an average sample for it. I have a RP 5W-30 done right now on a Maxima VQ35, but the sample will send RP users in arms because it doesn't look very good. Way to thin, which is no surprise given it's cSt from the factory. So, a buddy is running RP 5W-30 so I can test it and get an average on that as well. PLease post your Motul 8100 in the sticky so we can see it, thanks-
Will
BTW- lead is a strong indicator of bearing wear and was the number one culprit reported by 300V users on the oil drop server. I know Motul sponsors race cars and is cool and all.. but not every oil can perform the best in every engine. Full on race cars can get by with 100% Ester because they don't go through the cold starts- and get rebuilt every season. Esters are prized for their extreme temp durability, which is reflected in the HTHS score. If you look at the sticky I posted, you'll see Motul has a very good HTHS score. but their viscosity at 100deg C is not all that awesome, and that's where most people spend their time. Add that with poor cold start protection, and it might not be the best oil to run. FWIW, even most F1 cars no longer run Ester based oils due to the new engine rules started last season. McLaren and Renault use Elf PAO, Ferrari uses a Rotella PAO, and Toyota uses an Eneos PAO base.

 

What would you recommend?

 

wow....

 

+1

 

Based on Used Oil Analysis done so far, and it is by no means complete, I would recommend the following oils to start with for FI cars:

Mobil 1 0W-40. A lot of people report oil consumption with M1, but who knows what grade they are using. This grade has performed steller in UOA tests and is the oil of choice for a number of factory turbo cars on the oil drop server, like Audi 2.7L TT and 1.8T engines. I am using it now and will post another UOA on it when I hit 3k miles. this oil has a cSt of 14.3 @ 100 deg C and an HTHS of 3.6. remember-higher numbers mean thicker oil at temperature. The HTHS test is done at 150 deg Celsius.

Quaker State Q Advanced 5W-40 European formula. Very thick with a good base stock. cSt of 14.5 @100 C and HTHS of 3.9 I have no UOA done on the VQ engine, so if you want to be the first- by all means. So far, it has done very well in other turbo engines like the 4G63.

Shell Rotella 5W-40. Often called the uber oil for the common man. cSt and HTHS numbers are posted on the oil drop forums somewhere, I'll see if I can find them. I also have no UOA done on it with the VQ engine. But, very promising.

None of these are exotic and designer label oils. They can be bought at most stores like Wal-Mart. They are good oils. They are not super-uber PAO base stock/Ester/miracle space shuttle fluid mixes. I don't think it should matter what's on the bottle or the base stock if the oil works great- and that's exactly what I'm trying to put together on the sticky. A fact sheet that represents just how well oil performs in our engines without the advertising and "cool name" factors- just what works.

That said, there are expensive oils worth trying and, again, I would love to see some UOA's of. Motul 8100 ETech 0W-40 and BMW specific LL-01 5W-30. Both have decent 100 C numbers and excellent HTHS numbers. The 8100 0W-30 is too thin for us in my opinion. It is **barely** a 30wt oil. Same with their 300V Power 5W-40. **barely** a 40 wt oil. Great HTHS number though if all you do is run 10/10ths at the track all day.

Amsoil series 3000 oil, or the TSO 0W-30. both look promising and the UOA's on the TSO 0W-30 looked really good. The ASL 5W-30 did not fare too well in the tests, and I wouldn't use it. Lead was too high and the formulas thinned out too much- especially when you look at what it costs.

Pennzoil Platinum is widely talked about as a great oil, but it sucked in the UOA. Barely any base stock left and a lot of oxidation. i would like to get another UOA done to verify the results weren't an anomoly, but the user won't go back to it.

Stay away from the 5W-30 Royal Purple. ***puts flame suit on*** I know people here love it, but it did not do well in the UOA test. I'm not trying to sell anyhting and have no bias one way or another, so i have no reason to BS anyone here. But, it thinned out like crazy. It is probably good for regular to short oil change intervals and mild modified VQ engines. On a boosted Z, I wouldn't touch it. I have one UOA of it done and will get a second when I can to verify the results weren't a fluke. But, looking at the cSt numbers- I'm not surprised.

I guess that's enough options for now. Please, if you wnat to see how well an oil is protecting and holding up, do a UOA. It's cheap and very easy. Then post the results in the sticky so we can all see what works and what should be avoided. Like Royal Purple (but seriously, don't shoot the messenger all you RP lovers)
Will

 

Almost forgot. I highly recommend Redline 10W-40. The UOA was really good and it has a Ester blend base stock. If you can get away with a 10W where you live, and don't want a regular brand oil like the Quaker State, then I would really look hard at buying Redline 10W-40.

And Pennzoil Platinum, just to clarify, protected well and has a lot of Moly in it. But it broke down really fast. Like the RP, I wouldn't use it in high stress engines or for extended intervals.
Will

 

What about castrol syntec 10w40? Do you know how it did?

 

Don't forget the "real" Castrol Syntec 0W-30.

http://theoildrop.server101.com/foru...=0&Board=UBB51

 

I agree 100% on the RP issue. I switched to RP 5w-30 and 2k later spun a bearing. Some of my other bearings were not looking in good shape either. The machine shop that did some of my work told me to stay far away from RP and that they have never had good luck with it.

 

Have you ever tested a 20-50w oil? I ran mobil one 20-50w in my porsche 928 for 5 years and drove it really hard with no problems. It held 8 quarts of oil and i changed it 2 times a year, or every 6 months.

 

wow! i'm definitely going to have to get rid of this RP! I spend about 30 minutes a day on the highway cruising at 5k rpm... i've only put 800 miles on the RP, but it sounds like it might be done already, lol.

If you know of a place in germany to get an oil analysis done, i'll try to get this stuff tested for you.

 

RP is causing oil consumption issue on my non-revup motor. I'm still using it so I can get a new engine from dealership. It's under extended warranty

 

Its a shame most ppl dont see the stickies, i know i don't alot. Very nice post again Resolute.

 

Search is your friend.....https://my350z.com/forum/forced-induction/252125-official-forced-induction-engine-oil-thread.html You guys blast newbs for doing it.

 

That thread is about what oil people are using, this one is about oil testing for oil breakdown.

 

I guess the challenge, is finding an oil that is best for extreme usage FI, but also fairly good for daily driving. Keeping in mind, that forged engines are not designed, or expected to run for 200K miles, unlikely an OEM engine. Again, this is just my opinion, but I would prefer an oil that has the highest extreme use protection, even at the expense of some cold start wear and tear...if this is in fact the case.

I think my engine oil analysis will be a good torture test analysis. The past 3 months have been very very cold. I have cold started my car dozens of time in sub 32F weather, so we'll see how she looks.

Resolute, it is my understanding that esters "cling" better to metal parts when the engine is not running. Shouldnt this improve cold start protection to a degree?