Crazy Whistle
Ok i now im a newby and searching for whistling bov got me know were at least after about 30 - 45 mins. Heres my problem (on my dads car) the vortech supplied bov is making a whistling noise at different rpms we have tried to add things to the end of the bov to change the noise but we only moved the rpm range up or down with right angle abs piping, mesh screens, cloth, blocking 1/2 to 3/4's of the end. But to no avil did anything come close to working and now he switched to his other bov a greddy type rs and that one only gives him compresor surge and 3-4psi, when he was getting 6-8psi. This kit has been installed for a couple of years now and he just brought it out for the summer now and this crap just started.
Any knowledge or ideas tips anything would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a ton.
Any knowledge or ideas tips anything would be greatly appreciated. Thanks a ton.
whistling as in, is the whistling is constant throughout the powerband?
if tha'ts the case, you are leaking boost... there should be a nut/bolt/screw on top of that bov to open or close the valve. i suggest tuning that said nut/bolt/screw until you have a reached the point of no whistling at all, but make sure it stays shut throughout the rpm range.
if tha'ts the case, you are leaking boost... there should be a nut/bolt/screw on top of that bov to open or close the valve. i suggest tuning that said nut/bolt/screw until you have a reached the point of no whistling at all, but make sure it stays shut throughout the rpm range.
Originally Posted by andypandy
whistling as in, is the whistling is constant throughout the powerband?
if tha'ts the case, you are leaking boost... there should be a nut/bolt/screw on top of that bov to open or close the valve. i suggest tuning that said nut/bolt/screw until you have a reached the point of no whistling at all, but make sure it stays shut throughout the rpm range.
if tha'ts the case, you are leaking boost... there should be a nut/bolt/screw on top of that bov to open or close the valve. i suggest tuning that said nut/bolt/screw until you have a reached the point of no whistling at all, but make sure it stays shut throughout the rpm range.
The whistle is from air going thru the horn of the BOV . It whistles at idle and cruise conditions when air flow thru it is just right . If you increase air flow with a smaller pulley , it will change and may go away . Alot of us put a air filter over the end of it . I filled mine with foam to lessen the noise even more .
Originally Posted by booger
The whistle is from air going thru the horn of the BOV . It whistles at idle and cruise conditions when air flow thru it is just right . If you increase air flow with a smaller pulley , it will change and may go away . Alot of us put a air filter over the end of it . I filled mine with foam to lessen the noise even more .
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he'd love to put a smaller pulley on it trust me but here in alaska we'd be playin with fire as the best gas we have is 90 or 91 oct at best. I'd be to afraid of detination. We thought of a filter but didn't know where to look for one, and thought that the element would have to much backpressure and create compressor surge. I'll see if he wants to try that though. has anyone taken the vortech (i believe he saw someone mention its made by mondo??) by-vavle apart? would it be able to go back together after being apart with out replacing anything (if we dont lose it i know). Oh and yes we tryed tightening the screw and held it in place with the set screw. I guess we could try a pressure test. Should we just clamp on a pressure hose in front of the s/c (thats how i tested my srt4 (in front of turbo of course)).
thanks again guys
thanks again guys
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