Yes, you should...You 100% sure it was the knoc count column? At any rate we need to pull some boost form map 4.It shoud not be seeing 8.9 psi..Give me a shout so we can meet up and fix this.

 

I'm pretty sure the computer uses injector pulse width vs. VSS to calculate MPG.

If you know your IPW, your pressure (stock is static, so thats easy enough), and your injector size you can easily calculate MPG.

If you change any of the the above (pressure, IPW, or injector size) your OEM calcs will be completely inaccurate.

 

Julian,

Just to be absolutely sure about this, my gf and I retested Map 4 tonight.
Nevermind 8.9 psi ... how about 9.9 psi?




I couldn't reproduce the high knock counts that I observed last time, but I'm guessing boost shouldn't be that high to begin with.
This was done in 3rd gear, at 69 F, 49% humidity.

I guess this needs to be fixed?

 

Julian,

Sorry for taking this long to reply to you.

This past Monday, some reckless NJ driver side-swiped my car and damaged my driver's side rear fender. We stopped, and called 911, but he decided to leave before the cops came. So now, I don't have any of his info except for his license plate. I think I have to contact the NJ Police or the NJ-DMV to track down his insurance carrier.

In any case, I've been up to my neck dealing with this issue, and just had my car dropped off at the body shop for repairs. It should be done by the Saturday.

As far as the STS goes, I would definitely like to drop by and have you take a look at the tuning to see if something is wrong I was thinking that maybe we could do that and some other minor fixes all at once. Matt said he wanted to put in some rubber washers between the pipe mounts to try to reduce the buzzing noise I get in the car at low RPMs.

Would the morning of Saturday, June 9th be a good time to drop by? Please let me know. Thanks!

 

Uh, I would say so...
It should not be boosting that high..
give me a call tommorow, Ill walk you through some truble shooting..

 

no problem ma, give me a call prior well work it out..

 

What rpm do you start having boost and what RPM does it reach full boost?

 

Sorry for the late response.
I've been absent from the forums for awhile since I've had to deal with the other business of an idiot hitting my rear fender.

I hit full boost on the 6psi map at around 3400-3500rpm.
I hit full boost on the 7.5psi map at around 3900-4000rpm.

As far as when I start having boost, the car spools very quickly, and is almost always above 0psi during moderate acceleration. I haven't given this my complete attention, but when driving normally, i believe the turbo is above 0psi starting between 1800-2000rpm.

If you want a more detailed account of the boost start rpm range, let me know and i will document it better for you.

 

A new development on the noise issue. Since the original STS piping was originally designed for a 350Z, the exhaust piping stops about 2 inches short of the end of the G35. Granted this setup is just about the ugliest thing you can look at, but I learned that it was worth finishing the rear with something better for more than just aesthetic reasons.

After running this for about 3 weeks, I found that the heat from the exhaust pipe was starting to burn the clear bra on my rear bumper. It got pretty bad, and you could visibly see the clear bra was many shades darker in the area just above the exhaust pipe.

This past weekend, I installed a pair of 3.5" slant-cut, double-walled Magnaflow exhaust tips. I had them extend the exhaust tips about 0.5" beyond the edge of the G35 bumper to be sure nothing else would be discolored from hot exhaust gases. Some custom cutting and welding and shaving needed to be done, but now it looks sweet.

One unforeseen benefit of the exhaust tips: they seem to have reduced the rasp noise I was experiencing between 1500-2000 rpm seems to have been somewhat reduced. Its not like the tips SILENCED the rasp completely, but there was a noise reduction of maybe 1-2dB. I didn't know that normal non-resonated exhaust tips could change the sound at all, but this was certainly a very welcome benefit.

 

After about 5-6 hours at MRC on Thursday night, the Level 10 Valve Body and Fluidyne transmission cooler were installed. I don't think the process would usually take this long, but we were just being VERY careful. The car ate up 8 bottles of ATF after all the work!! But I guess more ATF means more protection. Overall, Matt at MRC did an awesome job with both products.

In any case, after driving around with these upgrades over the last few weeks, I feel a hell of alot more confident in the car. The rev-limiter is no longer a frequently-visited experience.

In FULL-AUTO mode, under normal acceleration, the car feels stock. Shifts are smooth, and not harsh at all. The only difference you feel is that the shifting is somewhat faster than it was before. Under WOT, the car shifts at OEM redline most of the time. The car will sometimes hit the rev-limiter once when upshifting from 2nd to 3rd gear, or from 3rd to 4th gear. Otherwise, the rest of the problems I

In MANUAL-MODE, the car is simply MUCH MORE CAPABLE. I no longer have to upshift 2000 rpm before redline to avoid the rev-limiter. Upshifting is crisp and fast, though not overly intrusive: no slushiness at all. Downshifting can be amazing! It is actually insane how immediate some of the downshifting actually is!!

When cruising at highway speeds, the car will downshift automatically and immediately from 5th to 4th. If I move the shifter from D, into MM, and immediately move down to MINUS, the car will have shifted from 5th to 3rd in under 1 second. I could not have expected ANYTHING like that with the OEM transmission.

However, I am gradually learning that the Level 10 valvebody has its peculiarities. One thing I noticed is that in MM mode, when downshifting from 4th to 3rd, the car reacts VERY differently depending on whether you have throttle applied or not. When downshifting from 4th to 3rd with your foot on the gas, the downshift is firm and immediate. However, when downshifting from 4th to 3rd without any throttle at all, there is a delay of almost 3 FULL SECONDS before it shifts, and when it does, it is very harsh. In order to avoid this, overtime I downshift from 4th to 3rd in MANUAL-MODE, i need to blip the throttle like I would on a full manual transmission. I don't really get why this is happening, and wouldn't mind someone's expert opinion on teh issue.

Regardless, the Level Ten Valve Body was a very welcome addition to my setup. I'm sure the results would have been even more significant if I went with an SGP Valve Body, but I am very content for now.

 

Isn't the MPG different due to the larger injectors? I didn't see anyone answer this definatively, but that's how it was explained to me.

 

Yes, the larger injectors will completely invalidate the way the OEM computer calculates mileage and displays it on the OEM Navi. The only way to tell true MPG is to use the trip odometer and measure it yourself.

When N/A, i was getting 15-18MPG in mixed city and highway.

Now, my OEM Navi reports 21-34MPG, which is pretty ridiculous. I'm still in the middle of calculating with enough miles and diversified driving, but on mostly city miles, I am now getting 16-18MPG. Not too bad for FI.

 

I think you can raise the rev-limiter on the UTEC. Maybe to 7100RPM? Perhaps, that will prevent it from hitting the limiter during your 2-3, 3-4 shifts at WOT.

 

From post 42 in this thread:

 

Julian did raise the rev-limiter slightly. I forget what the new value is though. Nothing too high, I believe.

 

yeah i was told its better to go a little over redline than to hit fuel cut off with FI

 

As some of you may know, I am having my exhaust track and turbo wrapped up in Thermo-Tec shielding on Thursday. The hope is to conserve the heat to the turbo and improve spool times.

Many users on this forums requested before and after logs to better document the effect of this modification.

Logging was done with my 8.0 PSI boost map, taken at 75F degrees, 3rd gear, at highway speeds. I did two runs back to back.

During the first run, positive boost occurs at 4200RPM, and full boost at 4600RPM.

During the second run, positive boost occurs at 4900RPM, and full boost at 5200RPM. I was going at a much faster speed when I started this run.

Here are the log screens:







I don't know what that 8.8 PSI stuff is about in my second run. I didn't think this map was over-boosting. Do you guys think this is something I should be concerned about?

 

are you still using a manual boost controller?

 

No manual controller.
Electronic UTEC controller.

 

Wow I guess the HFC's make a pretty big difference i reach full boost between 3600-3900 rpms if i recall correctly. Test pipes are going in next week so hopefuly there will be as big of a jump as there is from regular cats to high flow cats.