617G

iTrader: (6)

I've been hunting for one for a few days. The shop is buddies with one of the Nissan dealers and is trying to get them to come down with one instead of me towing the car, but it's a waiting game now. He mentioned the UpRev, but said it's missing some of the functionality of the Consult...do you know anyone that's used it?

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

There's quite a few people on here using the UpRev. Wired 24/7 one of the mods of this forum has posted logs from his in the past. Maybe PM him?

617G

iTrader: (6)

Cool...thanks you!

617G

iTrader: (6)

Well, I found a dealer that is willing to run diagnostics on my car and swap out the ECU with one I found at a local junkyard if necessary. Wish me luck, lmao

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

The APP is basically two potentiometers. Each pot has 3 wires - 5vdc, ground, and signal. If you apply the 5vdc and the gnd then you should get a varying voltage out of the APP. You may need to disconnect the signal wire from the ECU so that the ECU can't modify it.

So, I was sitting in the staging lanes tonight at the track and I started thinking about this, and thermography. I, admittedly, have very little thermographic knowledge, but one think I do know is that wires don't typically heat up in the middle, they heat up at the ends, because there is more resistence at the end of the wire (termination) then the middle of the wire. I then got to thinking a bit more, if your wire heated up in the middle, like yours did, there would most likely HAVE to be a splice somewhere in the vicinity of the heat up (like a crimp on butt connector or a wire tap or something). A poor splice can lead to a high resistence situation where 10A CAN damage a wire rated for 15A. The poor connection creates a higher resistence which basically lowers the current handling of the wire, effectively making it act like a smaller wire. Do you know of any butt connectors or splices or any other modifications to the wiring? What kind of engine management are you using, and where is it spliced in to?

merlin3

iTrader: (4)

off topic but your such a nerd, oh and great runs tonight : )

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

13.0 at 116, yeah excellent numbers.

I'm not really a nerd, I just had a LOT of time between runs. I'm not sure who is running that place, but they are terrible.

z2g

iTrader: (20)

Hey KP you know your shiet. Hope he finds out his problem.

617G

iTrader: (6)

Correct. The pedal assembly was checked with a volt meter and all the wires going into it and out. The voltage on the output pans out, but the voltage on the input wires is too high...I'm not sure if that means anything at this point.

I don't remember off the top of my head what if anything is spliced into that wire. It's the ignition wire that runs behind the firewall. The wire has already been replaced so wouldn't that make the short a moot point?

I'm using a Greddy EU and it has already been swapped out to see if that was the problem. The EU was not a new addition to the car. I ran it previously with my Vortech with great success.

I found an ECU from an 03 5AT 10 minutes from my work. They wanted $285 for it, which isn't bad at all. Right on par with ebay, etc. Basically my plan is to tow the car to the dealer, have them run whatever diagnostics they can and if I need a new ECU I'll have one with me ready to go. I can't think of anything else that can be done. ALL of the wires have been checked. The entire harness behind the firewall was pulled out and put back with the ignition wire replaced. I'm sure if I was a bit more patient, then this will get figured out, but the shop is extremely busy with other cars that have been promised to customers so it's hard to find time to work on mine when they're not even billing me. They spent 3 full 10 hour days last week checking all the fuses, wires, connections, etc. and that's when they found the ignition wire was discolored. You can check which wire it is if you think that would help your diagnosis...I posted the exact pin number in an earlier post.

Please excuse me if my responses are a bit confusing as this is all new to me and I am just trying to relay information. Thank you everyone for your effort, especially you KPierson.

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

If the voltage in to the pedal assembly is high, then the voltage out of it will read high, too. If the voltage in is high then there is a good chance the ECU's internal 5vdc power supply has been damaged. I wouldn't guess (keyword guess) that the power supply would be fed off the ignition circuit, but most likely the main 12vdc feed to the ECU.

I understand how hard it is to be the middle man in something you know little about, I find myself in that position quite frequently at work (I run a maintenence department for a global manufacturing company). My background is electonics/automation, but I get involved in almost anything you can think of.

Good luck with the dealership. I would say at this point swapping the ECU out is not a bad option. I would also recomend that you completely remove the Greddy unit so the dealership can work on the car with confidence. Most dealership people will do that right away anyway (rip out any aftermarket electronics). If you have someone who knows what they are doing availible I would have them remove it. The car should start up and run without the Greddy unit in it, just don't get in to boost. Keep us updated.

617G

iTrader: (6)

I'm not sure exactly of the schematics, but I think we've exhausted our efforts in trying to find a wiring issue. All of the wires we checked and tripple checked and that was the only discolored wired with weird voltage readings. I think you are corrent in that there is damage to the ECU, whether it be power supply or something else.

The dealer will never see the EU the way it is wired so it shouldn't matter, but we'll see. The shop has friends up in the food chain at Nissan so we may get a consult in the shop afterall, but maybe not. I just hate these waiting games

If worst comes to worst, like I said, we'll just tow the car to the dealer and have them either hook up a consult to the current ECU, or just put in the new ECU ourselves, have them program it to the BCM, key, etc. and see if the car runs. Not sure the best course of action on that yet...need to think about it a little more.

35ounces

iTrader: (5)

FYI: Bad ECU will usually throw a PO605 code (ROM error -replace ECU).

MIAPLAYA

iTrader: (3)

This may have been tried but does the car start without the EU hooked up?

617G

iTrader: (6)

No, it doesn't...and the EU was swapped out for a new one to see if it is the EU...

I think we're done with tests, lol. Everything that has been suggested in this thread and thensome has been done numerous times with with everything looking normal except for the ignition wire which was burnt on the ends (not in the middle). Next step is towing it to the dealer with a spare ECU on tap just in case and have them hook up the consult.

Dave, I don't think I'm getting that code, but I'm not sure. I don't have ALL the codes (there's a bunch of them) on hand.

617G

iTrader: (6)

final update: problem solved

The white/blue wire runs along the entire car all the way down to the tail lights and powers sensors/peripherals(sp?) along the way, not just behind the firewall. After the shop replaced the wire, all codes are gone and throttle is back

Thank you everyone for your tips/suggestions/etc!

I now have an ECU and a brand new Throttle body for sale, lol. Anyone interested?

KPierson

iTrader: (1)

Did they ever figure out why it needed replaced?

Good news to hear the car is running like normal!

kzanard

Glad to hear you are up & running Andy.

617G

iTrader: (6)

I'll get more info, but the main problem was the cooked wire. As to WHY it "cooked," I don't know ATM.

617G

iTrader: (6)

Thanks Kevin...hope you're enjoying the car!

617G

iTrader: (6)

old thread, but incase anyone was wondering, I got a new IPDM and it fixed ALL my issues. Thank you to Jason@Riverside for a great deal