First, the TN does not need a boost controller. This is most likely what popped the motor. Incorrect line routing and/or lines popping off are the first think that will make a motor go like that. Get rid of the boost controller! Its not needed for this kit and make sure you have the line connected to the correct port on the wastegate.

 

How can you say it is not needed for this kit? Im sure you know what a boost controller does as you are turboed, but I will agree he maybe does not "need" it for his set up.
Boost controllers cause people to blow motors. I will agree to run off the wastegates for a little.

 

Wow, is it just me or is this a totally bi-polar post. The TN out of the box is tuned for 8.5 PSI. The kit has overboost issues already. Why would you need a boost controller. To turn boost down? Sorry doesn't work that way.

 

Im just saying. Your telling him he doesnt need a boost controller for that kit? Not knowing his true intentions, that is a strange comment.
How do you know he didnt want to run more then 8.5PSI soon?
Whether is overboosts or not, I would just have said you are not ready for a boost controller and considering your set up to rethink using it.
Not that you dont need a boost controller with that kit .
It makes it sound like you have some other way to control the boost other then ripping out the WG springs or modifying the WG in some way? Not sure if these are internally gated or not.

Prob just a matter or wording I am sure.

 

he has nothing at all to do with the tuning because as ive mentioned, he doesnt tune cars and doesnt have a dyno. the plan was to go get it tuned after the install was done, but being giddy and impatient we took the car out and pushed it too hard. it wasnt the install of the kit, it was the carelessness afterwards of not tuning other than the TN reflash and we couldve been pushing too much boost for what the car could handle. we did not know what it was pushing, the boost controller was off, so that has nothing to do with it either

i talked to a popular local shop about the boost controller and he said the TN wastegates are known to fail and it would be a good idea to have the boost controller there. but i repeat, we werent running the boost controller!

 

Has or had? Got proof?

Any "overboost" in this situation could only be caused by incorrect installation or operation. Unless the kit is over 1.5 years old and not updated, then it's not the kit.

Wow.. the things you hear. I'd like to see the basis for that...

Besides, if a wastegate were to 'fail', a boost controller wouldn't change anything.

 

i love that the OP said it pulled SOO hard while it ran, im sure 20 psi on the stock motor would!!



next time go to a shop, these cars are too expensive to mess around with if you arent 1000% sure what you are doing...

good luck man


also, TN wastegates dont fail, and if they did, a boost controller wouldnt help the situation..

 

damn sorry to hear about this bro, get it fixed and keep us updated man

 

I disagree I know alot of people with a TN setup, I beat my car and push it hard and still no problems. Daily driven.


+1 get a good shop thats knows what they are doing for the install... I bet $1500 bucks doesnt sound too bad now compared to 10 g's for a new setup.

Either way I feel for ya man. Good luck

 

Not really a fan of anything reflashed, since a reflash makes that assumption that every engine operates with the same VE, and that every car has identical mods, and was tuned under identical conditions....too many variables.

But if this engine blew up in just a minute or two, I too feel that you overboosted, most likely due to some kind of install error. Hopefully some good lessons can be learned from this, so I appreciate you sharing it, and enduring the critisims...but the first stop prior to installing any FI kit should be the dyno.

 

Here's some UTEC logs from a '03 6 Speed WITH the wastegate relocation kit and 3" single exhuast.



Nope no over boost there.

 

What other mods was it running and was it running any sort of boost control? I see it peaking early at 9psi so it leads me to believe there was some sort of boost control in place?

How many other people do we have running 3" singles with the kit with the same issue? I'd like to see how many with the same exhaust as you mentioned have had the same issue. Also because the pipe has been tested fully on a 3" open topspeed exhaust with no boost creep.

I've seen people claiming "overboost" with the pipe running such exhausts as nismo, when other people running the pipe claim to have no issues whatsoever (one guy even had it with the Fujitsubo exhaust, which I have had no issues with). In those cases, something never struck me as being quite right with the claims.


In the op's case, I can difinitevely say this wasn't an issue as he was running the Tanabe exhaust, but I think that's already been well established.

 

No external boost control. Compressor outlet to wastegate. Tested at what temperature and on the street or on the dyno? Temps seem to play a big part in overboosting. You cannot get it to overboost on a Dynojet but on the street its a different story.

 

Right, but I believed that was due to the load aspect of running it on the street vs an inertia dyno. I've seen that on my own car. You're saying this only happened in really cold weather?

You should initially hit higher peak boost in cold weather due to the nature of the system. Reason being is that a system that is boost sensitive or boost controlled, manifold pressure is being directly referenced when the wastegate is controlled by the ebc solenoid or mbc. In a stock turbonetics wastegate spring controlled setup, the wastegate is totally blind to any changes in manifold pressure. It's controlled by the pressure signal at the compressor outlet, pre intercooler, pre manifold. This may be why it saw 9psi at such low RPMS, and is normal on a non-boost controlled setup in cold weather. Changes in the air desnity as it's cooled/heated across the intake tract should cause higher manifold boost pressure than during warmer weather.

As far as the boost creep you've got logged, that may be a different story... I'm still interested in hearing other's experiences with single 3" exhausts. I know there are a lot of people out there running them with this kit and would like to hear if they're having issues as well. These seem to be the most free flowing exhaust for the setup and the only ones that I would consider would be prone to issues if this is the case. However, I haven't heard of any complaints by the people I've seen running them. I believe the wastegate relocation has worked flawlessly for the vast majority of the people running the stock kit out there, but I haven't heard any complaints that reallly added up

In the case of this car you just posted a log of, did you try an open dumped wastegate to see if that would effect the issue?

I'd also be interested in seeing someone trying this with an unbolted exhaust. Taking a car that exhibited no boost creep with an aftermarket exhaust and then dumping directly off the downpipe would be the true test of this.

Keep in mind that I don't plan to argue this. This is how things get fixed, and I'd rather any discussion be productive. Thanks.

 

UPDATE

today i held a connecting rod that was in two. theres a hole in my block. sh*t.

ill have pictures soon, its pretty gruesome, just as a heads up.

were taking action already, will be sending money for a motor soon. im setting a goal of 2.5 weeks maximum. sound too long? or not enough time?

 

I have never got more than 8.5psi with 3" apexi.
I check my peak on my boost gauge every time i get on it.

 

Ouch. Sounds familiar, but mine was after 2 years. lol...

I'm fairly certain mine was caused by oil starvation due to burning oil by blowby on the rings (which was biproduct of another issue). Hard to say really..

2.5 weeks? Are you going to get a built motor? That's pretty darn fast. Mine's been down for almost 3 months now and still not quite done, so consider yourself lucky.

 

Thanks for the info. That's a full 3" single?

 

Well i think its 76mm at the downpipe connection, then a full 80mm after which i think is 3 inch.

 

Better question, where was the UTEC Map sensor pulling its pressure signal from?