I am wrapping up a new motor & Greddy TT install. I am down to the final few steps, installing the flywheel, clutch & tranny. But before I button those things up and I still have some space to work, I was wondering how to run the Boost lines. Also considering that I have a new HKS EVC6, I have no idea how to run the lines. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Diagrams would be good, pics even better. I need help ASAP.

Thanks.

 

So I guess no one knows how to run the vaccuum/boost lines for the Greddy TT or the HKS EVC6?

Come on guys...Someone knows.

 

Check your EVC manual it will tell you how.

 

for the greddy kit run the two vacum lines of the back port on the wastegates (leave the top one open) and then use a T fitting to join them and attach them to the nipple on the fron of the plenem. cant help you on the hks though try to use the manuel

 

There are a number of different configurations with strange names. I'm nopt clear which is correct. Can anyone assist with the appropriate one?

 

So don't use the top port. What about if I am using a boost controller (HKS EVC)? Still use only the back port?

 

Should be a picture in the Greddy instructions with the wastegate diagram. Bottom/side port is connected to manifold for pressure source. The top port stays open so there is no restriction in the diaphram when the spring lifts at 5.5 PSI. Don't plug the top or anything. Side port must be connected to a source somewhere (picture has it coming off the front of the upper plenum) or you'll just keep building boost....

If using a boost controller, plug the source from the controller actuator or solenoid to the top port. This will allow pressure to be pushed on top of the diaphram to keep the spring down...building more boost.

Not sure how the EVC instructions are...but E-01 shows configurations for external and internal wastegates. Line to the top is split from the controller just like the bottom port

 

Thanks that helps a lot.

Now can anyone help with the specifics as to which diagram in the HKS manual to follow? They have about 3 different configurations.

 

use the diagram for "poppet"/external wastegate. The other difference, is that with two wastegates, you will need to T both lines into one.

 

Thanks Sharif, I appreciate that. Where does the word poppet come into play. I thought it was just internal and external wastegate. Thats probably what was throwing me off. Now I think I can manage.

I'll let you know.

 

I believe it is the European word for external gate. It pops...so its a poppet valve.

 

The Greddy Install manual was CRAP!!! Basically 3 pages that told you if you didn't properly heat insulate the harness and fuel lines, they are not liable. Other than that, I had no pictures. They were basically useless.

In fact, I thought I did something wrong, when after mocking up the turbo set, I had 3 extra pipes. I forgot that it would be possible to run the turbo set-up independent of the intercooler. The instructions made no mention of that. I discovered it by accident on the net when someone sent me a photo.

Figuring out this kit is definitely not rocket science, but a good set of instructions also help a lot. Even Turbonetics had precision instructions with pictures to help.

 

Ya, the kit won't exactly get you through powering up a nuclear reactor, it's more like a rough outline. Did you use the version from greddy's website?

For the FMIC, there is actually another install pdf (i have it somewhere) that is called the "g35 install" or something, but it works for the Z. Let me know if you'd like a copy of it. It definetly explains the charge pipe routing a lot better than the turbo install instructions

Trust me, your not the only one that hated those instructions. I put my manifold pressure source on the top port when I first started the car...and figured out pretty quick how fast the turbos will build pressure. Got 8psi damn fast with a little over half throttle and went back home to figure out what I screwed up =). Just glad I didn't floor it...

Glad you got it fixed though. EVC all hooked up now?

 

Actually no, I am just trying to be proactive. I am still trying to find time to complete the attachment of the transmission to the block (only about 3/4 of an inch away) which I already installed back in my car. I am still working a lot of hours and probably this weekend, I should be able to hammer it out. I just wanted to know how to run the lines before buttoning her up. Space is very tight right now, and I want to set it up right.
Thank you for the heads up. I appreciate all of the feedback so far.

 

What I did was route all the lines to a manifold block. The problem with having 5-6 T's is that you are unsure if your connections are all ok. When I went from all the T's to the manifold block, I overboosted instantly. I knew all of the T's were hurting my setup so I switched..

 

I was planning on using the AAM Throttle Body Spacer to help with some of the lines, to help avoid putting T's everywhere and keep the engine bay clean. I found that when I used the spacer with my Turbonetics set-up, the Boost Gauge was not anywhere as steady as when it was T'd off of the plenum. Strange...I thought, but I kept it there for convenience. The HKS will not be attached to the throttle body spacer, but rather exclusively off of the plenum.

So for my set-up I will have to feed the EVC with a boost signal from the Plenum and T the line going to both Turbo's as instructed in the Poppet/External Wastegate instructions.

 

I guess it would be safest to heat wrap the boost lines as well?

 

That is a MUST for a proper boost signal to your sensor!!

 

YOu can, only where needed tho.. Just after the wastegates and up to the top of the motor if you want..

 

Pics?