+1

you get what you pay for when you're talking about a quality install done by a reputable Z shop. anyhoo good luck sounds like you have your hands full with whats going on with your car

 

Firstly, please will stop telling me I should have had my install done by a reputable Z shop, there ARE NONE IN WA. I think I have made this more then clear before in my previous posts. No point in repeating it :0P You guys are blowing this out of proportion saying I have my hands full, etc.. not that big of an issue. Dont get me wrong, I appreciate your advice, but constantly telling me I should had my stuff installed professionaly, then telling me I should get my install looked at, which I have already, is not really helping me get my problem fixed :P

I had my motor pulled and the install double checked by Drift Office in Auburn, WA and also at Dyno Authority/Fame Automotive in Redmond,WA , both reputable shops in WA and both with APS TT/VQ experience.

When drift office looked over my install they didnt actually get it on the dyno because it didnt have a proper tune, so thats why they didnt catch the actuators malfunctioning.

If the wastegate piping from APS is not outrageously overprice, I will go the external route.

If it is rediculously priced, I will just get the forge actuators. I dont recall off the top of my head, but in order to replace my actuators, I need to take the turbos off correct? Or is it possible to somehow do it with the downpipes off? (I doubt it)

Thanks again for the advice

 

You can do the actuators with the motor in the car and turbos remaining in place. it is about a 5-6 hr install for a shop/person that knows what they are doing.

I stand behind EVERYTHING I posted and believe you should have taken your car to a reputable Z shop. If that meant driving your car to GTM, or shipping to Forged, or wherever, then so be it. I see thread after thread about the issues you are having and I sit here and laugh. At what point do you admit you messed up? You continue to self install and continue to have issues.....

I wish you the best of luck resolving everthing, heck, best of luck on doing the EWG conversion if that is the route you choose to take. Truth be told, unless you suck it up and take it to a reputable Z shop with experience with this car and tt kits related to this car, I expect a consistant stream of threads about all the problems you are having

 

I dont admit that i "messed up" I learned so much about my car from doing this I would have it no other way. I do admit I should have had the install double checked along with the actuators... before I had my car tuned 2 times. That was a mistake.

Mechanicaly, besides this faulty wastegate issue, my car is running well.

Thanks Ziv for your help

 

So after you get your actuator/wastegate issue resolved... where does your car go to get tuned? Again, I would HIGHLY recommend a reputable Z shop for tuning. I have been down the road before and at this point, I have about 2-3 tuners in the country I would trust to tune my car. The closest one being 400 miles away from me. The extra effort might seem like a pain in the @ss at the time, but that 6+ hr car ride, or the extra $500 - $1000 to fly in a tuner will be worth it

 

Yea I havent figured that out yet... the guys at Dyno Authority here in WA are good guys and have been extremely helpful/knowledgable so I might go to them again. I would love to go to GTM but im guessing that would cost at least 1k in gas + tune + hotel would be at least 2k for a tune, and my pockets arent that deep :P

But I do have the blown motor fund, dont worry. I just hope to never use it.

 

Ziv, or anyone else that might contribute, do you think it would be possible to tack weld my wastegates shut without removing the turbos? Too tight of a space most likely eh?

 

No. Welding castings is very different than welding just regular cold rolled steel. Castings have to be heated up with a blow torch and then welded with a special electrode. This can be an issue if bearings are at risk from the high heat of the weld and the torch.

I dunno it may not hurt to just tack it, but I wouldn't take the chance. If you ruin the casting or the bearings $$$$$$

 

Thanks for your input,

ive been reading over at nasioc and they tack weld theirs all the time, just one tack on the door and 1 tack on the arm, not recommended you think?

Like this, but not necessarily all the way around the door:

http://photos.imageevent.com/speedyw.../websize/2.jpg

 

If its been done before and they haven't had any problems go for it. The tack really isn't holding much...

Call a welding shop and ask them about tack welding castings.

 

I spoke with a welder he said he needs to check if theres enough room but otherwise its not a problem.. gotta get my car on the lift for him

 

One other thing I have seen with welding on a car, not that it is common, but none the less.... I have seen people short out their ECU and other electrical components attempting to weld with everything in place.

If it were my car and I was serious about doing a EWG conversion, I would have the entire opening welded shut vs tack welding the swing arm. If you are going to go through with this, do it right

 

you do not have to remove the turbos to install the forge actuators. I did this on a APS TT car for a guy.

On the drivers side I did not have to remove a single part other than the actuator and replace it with the forge.

On the passenger side all I removed was the alternator and then changed the actuator. It can be done in a few hours by a good tech.

 

Thanks for the input phunk, btw you have a PM.

Another question, If my target boost is 8-9 psi, do you guys suggest the tial 3.6psi (.25 bar) or the5.6psi (.4 bar) wastegates?

 

is there any overboost issues with the tial wastegates or are they pretty much going to be the specified pressure?

 

u want atleast the 6psi spring.

Your best bet is to run the engine to operating temp, heat up themanifolsd then weld them. Then slowly let the car cool down. Because cast coolers different the steel (slower/faster, im not sure) Its that process that makes the welds crack. A normal weld on a cold cast manifold will not work. It will crack.

 

Mn my 4.5psi spring, I hit 5.9 psi. I had never heard of this before I experienced it.

 

You need to heat them to weld them and then put them in an oven aftewords and slowly bring them back down to temp

 

I guess I will go with the 3.6 PSI spring and just let my HKS do the rest. I dont want to have the 5.6psi spring for some strange reason hit above my target boost like these actuators I have on right now. No harm in running lower pressure springs correct?

As for the wastegate welds, i will let the welder know what you guys said, thanks a lot.

Still waiting on APS to reply to me about selling me those wastegate pipes. (Australian Holiday till tuesday...)

 

They wouldn't sell them to me....so I doubt they'll sell them to you either. I went the forge actuator route and couldn't be happier. Easy, cheap and they work.