oil will never, ever, ever spin a bearing unless there is not enough of it...poor assembly and/or improper tolerances can easily cause a spun bearing, no matter what oil you use.

Personally, I would use what the person who built your motor recommends.

I've used Royal Purple over the years in a few of my motors with great success (always the XPR blend though), as well as Motul (great stuff, likes to be changed a bit more frequently than some other synthetics, but easily sustains high revs), Redline, various Castrol blends, etc. I've never had any issues with any of them.

 

Love you too Adam.

 

hehehe....after I wrote it I realized that might hold a "special" meaning to you, but it wasn't meant as a knock on you Just based on my experience

 

most of you are running 15/50 weight when is does get colder out like below 55 does it put a strain on your oil pump............i'm still breaking my engine in and have been using just mobil drive clean 5/30, with alittle BG MOA, and i just figured i would switch to mobil 1 5/30 after breakin, why for the thicker weight oil on boosted engines, does it thin the oil out more then N/A?.............also with you guys running greedy TTs do fill to factory spec 5qts or do you add alittle extra? i've been adding a 1/4qt more because of all the extra oil lines

 

Thanks for the sticky!

 

most people ar using thicker oil with the built motor beacuse it adds a bit more margin of safety (costs a bit of power though) and because they are also running larger than stock oil clearances when they rebuilt the motors.

 

The factory service manual says you can use 10w40 above 0 degrees F.

 

I use the Lucas oil 10w-30 and the larger Pathfinder oil filter

 

It sure does.....I just verified it in my FSM!

 

sure does, for the stock block engine that came in your car. Not one that has been built with low compression pistons and different clearances than a factory engine.

notice the title of the thread? Built Motors.

 

Motul (great stuff, likes to be changed a bit more frequently than some other synthetics, but easily sustains high revs),

More frequently? You mean around 5-6 k?

 

Excuuuuuuuuuuse me. Duh point is 5w30 isn't needed in any motor, built or not.

 

Is the 50 weight oil helping your piston slap.

 

has nothing to do with what is needed in any motor, it has to do with what PERFORMS best in a motor. Post up some UOA's from your built motor and lets compare them to the ones already on file in the UOA sticky. Other than that, anything people are saying means nothing.

I keep seeing people say ow great Motul is, yet the UOA on the stuff was pretty bad when you compare it next to (el cheapo) Diesel Oil.

 

What kind of oil, weight, etc.. should I go with for my next change?

The Motul keeps looking less impressive with the Results, and John didn't have such a good review on the Eneos that I was hoping to be decent, even though his was done on the N/A Engine Setup.

 

The Mobile 1 0w-40 performs very well from the UOAs collected in the oil analysis thread. Also the Rotella T-syn diesel oil.

 

I am sticking with the Rotella T-Syn, but I have always liked Mobil 1. Mobil 1 makes a Turbo Diesel oil, too. anyone try that one out yet?

 

Not on a VQ but that is the oil I've used in other turbo cars and it always showed great wear numbers. The Mobil 1 TDT 5w40 is the same as Mobil Delvac 1 which is known to be a great oil for turbo engines. Look up Mobil Delvac 1 on oil forums and you will see what I am talking about. Excerpt from Mobil website:
Question:
Comparing Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 to Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40
How does the new Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 oil compare to Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40? Which is better for my 2003 Ford F-350 Powerstroke diesel?
-- Greg Braden, Rockford, MI

Answer:
Either brand is a great choice since Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 and Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 are the same product branded differently for different markets.

 

Question to the sponsors and engine builders. If ideally you use simple motor oil to break in a new engine to allow for the rings to seat properly... Then what is the best plan of attack for changing oil from standard to synthetic when breaking in a new engine?
Turbo manufacturer's prefer that you use synthetic in the turbo's but synthetic would prevent a new engine from breaking in properly and the rings won't sit. How long do you run base motor oil before changing to synthetic? I am getting all kinds of mixed information. 500 miles, 750, 1000 before changing to synthetic?

 

you should ask whomever built your engine, and use their recommendations