Problem is my engine builder is telling me to avoid synthetic and the turbo manufacturer says that Synthetic is recommended for their turbo's or else they could fail. So I guess I will simply upgrade to synthetic before getting to the dyno.
My question had to do more specifically with how many miles is enough to break in an engine adequately allowing the rings to seat properly.

 

so Greddy is saying that the same turbo that's been in existance for eons (maybe even since before there was synthetic oil!) could "blow" with the use of regular oil? Amazing lolol

Here is what I'd do if it were my own car

Dino for first 100 miles, change it and new filter

Dino for next 500 miles, change it and new filter

Dino until about 1000 miles, then switch to synthetic and new filter

I've done the above more times than I can count, even with full ball bearing turbos, and have never had an issue at all.

 

Got a lot of Mobil1 5w-50 and have used it on my first setup w/ Greddy TT's on stock engine. Now rebuilding engine w/ everyting exept Darton mid sleeves and going for max 600rwhp. Do you think that oil gona be to thick?

 

I dunno if anyone has cut one open. I bought one of these to try.. and after I was done, I cut it open with a saw (I've done this before with M1's and OEM filters). The KN looks EXACTLY like the M1 in the inside. So you're really paying a few extra bucks for the socket nut for easy removal..

Not going to post any of my opinions on filter/oil since I don't have a built engine lol..

 

They are the same filter, made along side each other at the same plant by Champion Labs (not the spark plug maker). The K&N comes with the 1" nut tack welded on the end, and some of the M1 filters are using a different by-pass valve now, but the media, ADBV, and canister is the same between the two filters. They're both good filters, but pretty expensive. I haven't seen anything quantifiable about filtering efficiency versus flow to say it's worth the money. But, iirc, they both use a synthetic media as opposed to paper, which should allow better flow over a paper filter for the same filtering efficiency. Still, while I use the M1 when I can buy them on sale, I wouldn't say it's "better" than any other well made filter, like the Wix filters sold under the Napa Gold label.

Will

 

Stock block running Amsoil 0w30 and standard nissan filter. Didn't know about the larger Pathfinder filter, I'll get that one next time. Lot's of good info in this thread...

 

Just changed my oil today.

Redline 10w40 with mobil m1-108 filter. First time going syn since rebuild. Car feels a lot more smoother and less noisy. I'm liking this oil so far.

 

I didn't read thru the thread but I use Mobil one 5 30w with a mobil m-110 filter. It's larger than the size that belongs in there and works great.

 

With respect to the MOTUL UOA reading high in lead... if you run leaded race gas your going to contaminate your oil with lead. I think Quad ran race gas when he was using the MOTUL. As far as iron... I imagine that is from the cams. Why? I have no idea. Aluminum.... that has to come from the head/valvetrain I imagine.

I am going to be using MOTUL in a few weeks after my motor is broken in and I will send it to Blackstone to get an UOA.

I don't think we can draw any conclusions about MOTUL yet. There are just not enough UAO's. BUT the series 300 racing oils exceed the standard for API-SH which indicates a very high level of ZDDP.

ZDDP which is an anti wear additive (zinc and phosphorus) has been reduced in newer oils because of it's ability to contaminate catalytic converters. You can find high levels of these additives in API SG-SJ with the minimum rating used being SL rated oils. So the oils falling under these classifications are likely the best to use for reduced wear although having short drain intervals (3000-5000mi).

Since extended drain intervals are not what we are looking for in an oil we should consider sticking with API SE-SJ rated oils instead of API SM or SL/AEPA CJ-4 rated oils.

API SJ rated oil meet the new ACEA A3/B3 European requirments for acceptable wear during testing which is approx 1/4 the wear allowed with the new API SM or CJ-4 oils (Rotella T). Rotella T is now an API CJ-4 oil and the additive package in this oil seems better suited to keeping emissions controls happy than to protecting the engine. Rotella T was a CI-4 oil, but has been reformulated as a CJ-4 oil and the addative package is not as good. If you can find the CI-4 then stock up on it.

Another great oil is the Amsoil Series 3000 diesel oil. It has high amounts of ZDDP and is API SH/CI-4 approved.

Our owners manuals state to use API SG/SH/SJ/SL. We should not stray from these designations/addative packages since that's what the bearings, valvertrain etc. were designed for.

Here is a great article about the changes in additive packages mainly concerning ZDDP. These changes are being fueled by tighter EPA restrictions not to the benefit or the longevity of your engine.

http://www.lubrizol.com/press-room/m...ate+Thickeners

JET

 

Great info Jet.

Thanks.

 

I always feel a little dumber after reading something Jet posts. Guess that's why he flies planes and I drive a beer truck!

 

Mmmmmmm beer!

JET

 

+1 !!

 

Hmmmmm??? Beer for parts???? LOL!

 

Goes to show I never look at the stickys lol

 

My tuner is a big fan of M1 15W50. That's what I'll be running in the summer and then going down to 5W40 or 10W40 in the winter.

 

Can we sticky this again?
Is anyone running any 15w 50 other than Motul?

 

I'm running Mobil 1 15w50 in both the Z and the E. Seems to work great so far.

 

btw I switched to Torco and am using the larger Mobil filter..I found I would lose one quart in about 1500 miles with the mobil ow-40..so the Torco is working better for me with little to no oil loss..although its expensive as hell..about 13.50 to 14.50 a quart. My motor did great @ 5000rpms for 118 miles in the BBORR.