Just looked in the service manual. it is indeed a thermister. Bypassing this will be no problem. I need to look into if this is used as part of the EVAP system control or if its useless other than a CEL.

For now, I would just wire it up to the wire for it outside of the tank and share its ground with the level sensor ground like it used to

 

Ambient air temp. of 63F I got 2.63 k ohms through the sensor.
Kevin

 

i swear the one i have in my part bin is bad! i couldnt get a reading thru it which is why i thought it was a switch!

 

The higher the temp. the less resestance through the sensor, I wonder what the "normal" in tank temp is?









'

 

http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7472623

http://www.putfile.com/pic.php?img=7472624

 

Wow that sensor is hyper sensitive to temp. changes!

 

ya the service manual describes the ranges that it operates for testing it. the fuel is going to range from ambient temp to hotter as fuel cycles from the tank to the heated rails and back. I bet if you just put it inline outside the tank everything will be fine. in a stock Z, the fuel temp should never really get super hot since it doesnt cycle, just the heat from the engine passing under the car heating the tank will bring it above ambient... and the air under the car is definatly pretty hot after passing thru the radiator and engine compartment.

 

as a correction for my previous post, i believe the temp sensor actually shares a POWER with the level sensor, not the ground. ill need to look at the manual again to verify. Unless you have the means to look it up in the manual right now, i wouldnt wire it up until we verify one way or the other.

 

I think your right Charles. Like to hear what the manual reads tho.
Does thes sensor have any other inpact on the ecu, or is it soley to read, "inner tank temp."? Wonder if it's better to ground out the open lead, or put a cheep resistor in between ground?

 

Heres what I did, I soldered a inline resistor rated at 2.4 K ohm in the place of the temp. sending unit. (outside the tank)
This restance is equal to ~ 72deg. F. fixed. I thought this would be a nutural temp.
I still don't know if the sensor is only to monitor the inner tank temp. or if it has an impact on other ECU control function.
No more CEL!
Here's a few picts.
Cypher displaying fuel thak temp. with the resistor inline.

NO more CEL!

 

Damn man! are you a rocket scientist?! That's craZy!

 

Nice work. We will have to update our web sight with this info. I am sure Charles will ask a few detailed questions though.

Thanks for the extra effort,
Brandon

 

Instead of creating a new thread, figured I'd bump this one with some updated info.

1st off, DO NOT TAKE THE DUAL PUMP CANISTER APART. Disregard the 1st step in this original thread. Putting the canister back together is a PITA!

--if for some reason you do that them apart, the pump with the blue hose attached feeds from the OEM siphon hose. The other pump feeds out the bottom of the can.

Other notes in addition to http://www.cj-motorsports.com/zgtwins.htm
> if you dont cut off the stock terminal, you can jumper the resistor easily. Also, you can go back to stock easily as well.
> the wiring pops into the terminals VERY easily with the blue piece removed, very tough with it in.

> this is how I wired the terminals (had to think a lil bit to make sure that the proper pins aligned because they get swapped going from in the tank to in the car.

In-tank side connector
pin 1: sender +
pin 2:
pin 3: +12V pump 2
pin 4: -12V pump 1
pin 5: -12V pump 2
pin 6: sender -

In-car side connector
pin 1: +12V pump1
pin 2: +12V pump2
pin 3: sender +
pin 4: sender -
pin 5: -12V pump 2
pin 6: -12V pump1

> dual pumps is way louder than a single Walbro, hopefully when I put my rear seat back on, it will muffle some of the noise
> you probably don't need to use 2 relays as bosch's are rated at 30/40 amps. Running 2 allows you to easily check individual pumps though. I am running 15A fuses to each pump.

If i can think of anything else, I'll post it up
On to some pics....

 

nice job man, thanks for sharing. you probably already did, but if not, i would tape over that resister so the leads dont ground out!

did you end up just connecting the siphon hose normally, or did you try running it thru the top of the assembly to face the slack away from the level sensor float?

 

yup, covered in hot glue for just that reason.

there's not enough slack for that siphon hose to run thru the pump. But i took it in and out 2 times and never had a problem either time. Real test remains when I fill her up though.

Thanks for the great support! Hopefully one day I can get one of your plenums as well !

 

Hopefully I can wake this thread up. Just got in my Hobbs switch and Charles told me I could install the sensor in the intake. Kinda bulky. Wondering if welding a bung in my inner cooler pipe will work as well. Also anyone have any suggestions on wiring? I have an idea but would be nice to get some input. Doing this to stage the pumps. FYI it's a 5 psi sensor. Fore innovations was where I was told to pick this up. Charles referred me. Thanks guys. Hope I can get some feedback. Thread is kinda old. Lol

 

Ok bringing this thread back up because I have a question and I was hopping you guy's knew the answer.

Ok so I have a engine swap(5.3 ls) and I switched out the factory ecu/ecm for a holley efi.
So now the fuel pump doesn't turn on.. I just read that the factory NIssan 350z ecu/ecm signals the fuel pump relay ground.

So my question is which wire is the ground?. I have read that the black with yellow striped wire is the 12+ignition source so is the all black wire the ground? Could I just cut the black wire and ground both halfs and be done with it?
Thanks in advance.

 

Think the factory manual (pdf file) has all the wiring for the factory wiring. Just did mine and had everything there

 

I would recommend remote mounting the Hobbs switch. In my Mustang, I put it in the battery compartment, which is a similar layout to the 350z battery compartment.

You could also splice/Tee it off the brake booster line that is already running into the cowl **BUT** if you do this you must relocate the brake booster check valve to be on the other side of the T. The check valve is hidden inside the brake booster hose that goes from the intake manifold to the chassis. In my Zs I put check valves right next to the booster so that I could use the booster line in the cowl as a vacuum/boost source for various things.

 

I'm sry but what do you mean remote wire the mounting? And if I relocate the break booster check value then u mean run the Hobbs into the intake? I'm confused. Lol.