Glad you put a band aid over the problem. Now, go purchase some high flowing fans, thermostat, higher radiator cap and some evans coolant

 

already have all that crap minus the evans clown.

 

Tryin to help you out. The fact that you didnt have a HPR in the first place, just showed me you did shiet backwards. You have a 500hp car, but leave the stock radiator in. Yea, Im the clown!

 

OK sorry..touche.. .I agree totally. I didnt do the build though!
I found out after the fact...I've owned the car since last august and just realized last weekend after 3-4 coolant pukes that the stock radiator is so damn small..! Anyhow I've got the greddy cap and now the new koyo and it stays right at 180 wether I hammer on it or not.
Sorry for being an ***!
Tom

 

Sorry for the confusion. I can see how you interpreted my response as condescending. No harm my friend!

 

Important to know software as Nissan uses coolant temp to decrease ignition advance 1 degree per 5F starting at either 195F or 200F depending on model.

This is so called summer over heat protection and tops out at 5 degrees retard at 215F or 220F depending.

Don't rely on gauge read what ecu says it sees at head coolant outlets.

 

I've just installed an autometer water temp gauge with the sensor placed in the upper rad hose. Replaced the coolant that I lost during the adaptor install. The autometer temp gauge reads normal for the first few miles then pegs at 250 degrees but the oem still reads normal and no overheating issues. I have used this type of gauge in the past with no problems. Not sure if the gauge is faulty, followed the directions to a "T". Any suggestions before I replace it?

 

I forgot to mention the water temp gauge is electrical in my earlier post above.

 

not sure that is the best spot for the sensor as the coolant is not flowing unless the thermostat opens up

 

I realize the temp may be warmer until the thermostat opens but it should be the opposite by dropping instead of rising from l80 degrees and pegging at 250 and remaining there after 4 or 5 miles of driving. Drove it again after a few hours. Gauge slowly rose to l80 degrees, thermostat opens, gauge slowly rises to 250 degrees and stays there. Engine does not overheat and oem gauge reads normal. Think I'll just return it and try another.

 

you wont see the actual temps of the engine coolant there.

when you first start the car the thermostat is closed and the coolant in the upper hose heats up slowly from engine compartment heat and heat radiation from nearby coolant that is flowing to the engine. Then once the thermostat opens up the hot coolant from the engine will flow through it and then just stay hot as it probably wont see much of the cooler coolant from the radiator flowing through the engine because as soon as the thermostats closes the flow stops by the sensor.

You need to get the sensor on a pipe that flows all of the time to get accurate readings

 

Help me out. I have the same autometer water gauge at the same location (from engine into radiator) and it normally reads about 180-190 and will go up to 210 in stop and go traffic..Are you saying the thermostat cycles, i.e. will close after the car is running like in cruising?

 

the thermostat opens and closes based on temp, when it reaches the rating temp it opens up and allows cooler coolant from the radiator to enter, then as the temperature comes down it closes and so on, so while cruising depending on outside temps the thermostat will close and open if the temps go back up.

If you have the sensor in a place where the coolant flows all of the time you can see these cycles better

 

I just spoke to another forum member that has it installed as I do and his temp also reads as posted in #32 above so my next option will be to replace the gauge and or sending sensor. What do you think?

 

You may also have the dreaded air bubble(s) in the system..Which would require a purge/vent..

 

Gah! I just bought a water temp gauge and was going to get one of those fancy silicon hoses with the probe bung all molded in. Have any recommendations where I should put the sensor instead?

P.S. I was using this thread for reference.

 

I am sure a lot do it that way because it is the easy way and probably fine for most people, but if you are **** and want a more accurate reading then you need to find a spot where the coolant flows all of the time, as an example just find the stock sensor on the back tube that connects the heads and follow it towards the passenger side, I installed min on the bright gold looking tube that connects that tube to the upper radiator hose.

The bad part is that you have to remove it and drill/weld a place to put the sensor on, it is a pain but I did it when I had the motor out, again it depends on how picky you are about having the most accurate reading.

 

SUCCESS::::: Went back and triple checked all the connections, ground wire connection wasn't crimped all the way and heat shrinked. Works great. Just another lesson learned . . . . .

 

Yeah, I'm picky. I realize that there can be fluctuations in temp wherever, but I'd like to keep them to a minimum. What kind of temps do you typically see? Cruising, hard driving, compared to outside air temp? etc?

 

during normal temps out 80-90 F outside at cruise it will be 80-90 C hanging more around 80 C and if the temps go to 50-60 F outside I have seen it near 70 C

During hard driving and stop and go it will be between 90-100 C pretty much regardless of outside temps

The temps went down about 5 C when I got the Nismo V2 bumper, a lot more space around the front to let air in

I also have big Koyo radiator and rear engine pathfinder cooling mod and Nismo rad cap and thermostat