Figured out reason for knock. PICS
Originally Posted by failsafe306
When you get the lifters figured out, don't forget that the cam brackets have to go back in the right places, too 

Originally Posted by failsafe306
When you get the lifters figured out, don't forget that the cam brackets have to go back in the right places, too 

don't forget also there is a forward and back ward to them too, lol. from the questions you have asked so far, i honestly don't think you should attempt this. maybe do it, but take to a shop to have them recheck.
Originally Posted by overZealous1
don't forget also there is a forward and back ward to them too, lol. from the questions you have asked so far, i honestly don't think you should attempt this. maybe do it, but take to a shop to have them recheck.
Btw, i mark everything when i take it off. the only reason i didnt mark the lifters were cuz i didnt think they would fall out so easy.
hmmm, screw me huh? just saying the vq35 is not really a beginner motor, and you stating it is your first, i was trying to save ya a few bucks by telling you to have someone check it out before you run it. the questions and pictures of amazement you have posted show you are great with a wrench in the off position, but do you really trust yourself with the wrench in the on position, hahhaa.
btw- how long did it take you to put all the bolts back in their proper position? honestly, not trying to be hard on ya, just that anyone deft enough to work on an engine like this typically would know what a lifter bucket is on site, and would know they would fall out when flipped. if you say "i went fubar and got ahead of myself" then i understand and carry on. just hate to see ya make a goofy mistake and costing yourself a couple thousand.
btw- how long did it take you to put all the bolts back in their proper position? honestly, not trying to be hard on ya, just that anyone deft enough to work on an engine like this typically would know what a lifter bucket is on site, and would know they would fall out when flipped. if you say "i went fubar and got ahead of myself" then i understand and carry on. just hate to see ya make a goofy mistake and costing yourself a couple thousand.
my advice would be to have your heads freshened up for the rebuild...
when doing this, have the heads decked, 3 angle valve job, and new valve stem seals...
the 3 angle valve job will seat the valve deeper in the head a small ammount. The machine shop can cut off the tops of the valve stems to essentially adjust the clearances, and then you won't have to go through the process of matching buckets to specific valves...
if you have any questions about the process, I'll be happy to help explain
-TODD
when doing this, have the heads decked, 3 angle valve job, and new valve stem seals...
the 3 angle valve job will seat the valve deeper in the head a small ammount. The machine shop can cut off the tops of the valve stems to essentially adjust the clearances, and then you won't have to go through the process of matching buckets to specific valves...
if you have any questions about the process, I'll be happy to help explain
-TODD
Originally Posted by 350zDCalb
my advice would be to have your heads freshened up for the rebuild...
when doing this, have the heads decked, 3 angle valve job, and new valve stem seals...
the 3 angle valve job will seat the valve deeper in the head a small ammount. The machine shop can cut off the tops of the valve stems to essentially adjust the clearances, and then you won't have to go through the process of matching buckets to specific valves...
if you have any questions about the process, I'll be happy to help explain
-TODD
when doing this, have the heads decked, 3 angle valve job, and new valve stem seals...
the 3 angle valve job will seat the valve deeper in the head a small ammount. The machine shop can cut off the tops of the valve stems to essentially adjust the clearances, and then you won't have to go through the process of matching buckets to specific valves...
if you have any questions about the process, I'll be happy to help explain
-TODD
Originally Posted by kevin8086
what kind of power were you running? did you know the rods were bent before you took the motor apart? if so what were your symptoms?
one symptom was knocking LOL. umm, low compression on the really bent rods. idk what else. my car also went into limp mode the day my rods went through a final bend. lol
Originally Posted by overZealous1
hmmm, screw me huh? just saying the vq35 is not really a beginner motor, and you stating it is your first, i was trying to save ya a few bucks by telling you to have someone check it out before you run it. the questions and pictures of amazement you have posted show you are great with a wrench in the off position, but do you really trust yourself with the wrench in the on position, hahhaa.
btw- how long did it take you to put all the bolts back in their proper position? honestly, not trying to be hard on ya, just that anyone deft enough to work on an engine like this typically would know what a lifter bucket is on site, and would know they would fall out when flipped. if you say "i went fubar and got ahead of myself" then i understand and carry on. just hate to see ya make a goofy mistake and costing yourself a couple thousand.
btw- how long did it take you to put all the bolts back in their proper position? honestly, not trying to be hard on ya, just that anyone deft enough to work on an engine like this typically would know what a lifter bucket is on site, and would know they would fall out when flipped. if you say "i went fubar and got ahead of myself" then i understand and carry on. just hate to see ya make a goofy mistake and costing yourself a couple thousand.
besides, im in school for auto tech, if i dont do this myself, whats gonna happen when a foramen tells me to diagnose for example the lifters on a certain car. Knowledge is power, and sometimes more money in your pockets. I think i saved about 2 grand just doing this myself.
and about puttin stuff back on. I took many pics and like i said, i made more marks on those gears, cams, chain, bolts, than the amount of members on this forum.
anyways but damn, idk why i just typed 3 paragraphs.
Originally Posted by 350zDCalb
my advice would be to have your heads freshened up for the rebuild...
when doing this, have the heads decked, 3 angle valve job, and new valve stem seals...
the 3 angle valve job will seat the valve deeper in the head a small ammount. The machine shop can cut off the tops of the valve stems to essentially adjust the clearances, and then you won't have to go through the process of matching buckets to specific valves...
if you have any questions about the process, I'll be happy to help explain
-TODD
when doing this, have the heads decked, 3 angle valve job, and new valve stem seals...
the 3 angle valve job will seat the valve deeper in the head a small ammount. The machine shop can cut off the tops of the valve stems to essentially adjust the clearances, and then you won't have to go through the process of matching buckets to specific valves...
if you have any questions about the process, I'll be happy to help explain
-TODD
Originally Posted by 350 Rookie
dont know, never dynoed the car. but shoudal been around 340 whp
one symptom was knocking LOL. umm, low compression on the really bent rods. idk what else. my car also went into limp mode the day my rods went through a final bend. lol
one symptom was knocking LOL. umm, low compression on the really bent rods. idk what else. my car also went into limp mode the day my rods went through a final bend. lol
Originally Posted by coachk
Not trying to be critical, but you never dynoed the car for TUNING.....



... Sry for the loss..

