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Figured out reason for knock. PICS

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Old Apr 19, 2008 | 07:27 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by 350 Rookie
but i dont know why this thread is becoming about me when i just wanted to show pics of the rods. LOL

You killed the poor rods. If those rods were whales you would be getting protested by Greenpeace for what you did to them.
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Old Apr 19, 2008 | 07:37 AM
  #42  
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Did you have an air/fuel gauge? Well good luck on this build. You have ***** to attempt such a feat. While the consequences are very high if something is not reassembled properly the pay off would we a few grand and a feeling of achievement! Rmedxx (May be spelled wrong but if you know this forum then you will know who I am talking about) on this forum would be a good person to speak with as he had done a breakdown and rebuild much like yourself and he is very generous with his knowledge (You should at least read his thread when he did his rebuild it has tons of pics, pointers and information). Alright here I'll just give it to ya....https://my350z.com/forum/engine-drivetrain-and-forced-induction-diy/288630-assembly-of-my-new-built-short-block.html Good Luck!

Last edited by 350Z400rwhp; Apr 19, 2008 at 07:41 AM.
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Old Apr 19, 2008 | 08:21 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by 350Z400rwhp
Did you have an air/fuel gauge? Well good luck on this build. You have ***** to attempt such a feat. While the consequences are very high if something is not reassembled properly the pay off would we a few grand and a feeling of achievement! Rmedxx (May be spelled wrong but if you know this forum then you will know who I am talking about) on this forum would be a good person to speak with as he had done a breakdown and rebuild much like yourself and he is very generous with his knowledge (You should at least read his thread when he did his rebuild it has tons of pics, pointers and information). Alright here I'll just give it to ya....https://my350z.com/forum/showthread.php?t=288630 Good Luck!
I do have an A/F gauge. And as for rmedxx, i have read all this threads already and it is helpful.

and yes, i do have *****. lol. i mean, this is going to be my career in the future so i might as well starting building now than later.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 08:46 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by 350 Rookie
dont know, never dynoed the car. but shoudal been around 340 whp

one symptom was knocking LOL. umm, low compression on the really bent rods. idk what else. my car also went into limp mode the day my rods went through a final bend. lol
wow i wonder what my rods look like since i'm running aroud 420
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 09:42 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by kevin8086
wow i wonder what my rods look like since i'm running aroud 420
if you are a stock block, do a compression test. At first when i read 120 on CYL 3 after dry/wet comp test, i thought it was deff pistons rings but i was wrong. actually, i recommend a compression test after every race or beating of the car. thats what im gonna do now. Do a comp test once a week and alot more.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 10:44 AM
  #46  
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OP,

You do know what caused your rods to look like that dont you?



Sounds like you have a turbonetics kit and just slapped in the flashed ecu and didn't check the A/F and for knock. You might want to remedy this on your next attempt .
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 12:20 PM
  #47  
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Originally Posted by 350 Rookie
if you are a stock block, do a compression test. At first when i read 120 on CYL 3 after dry/wet comp test, i thought it was deff pistons rings but i was wrong. actually, i recommend a compression test after every race or beating of the car. thats what im gonna do now. Do a comp test once a week and alot more.
There is no way i'm going to take the time to do a compression test once a week, there is no reason to have a car FI if you have to go through that. My car has probably 20k plus miles FI and but it is tuned once or twice a year to make sure everything is ok and it makes the same power so i dont think you had this car tuned wich may be your problem.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 12:27 PM
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This is why being able to do some logging is important. You can't really look at your gauge 100% of the time and that is why I try to do some logging especially when the Temperature changes dramatically.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 01:04 PM
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Damn, I never seen 6 bent rods.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 01:19 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by chris'smax
OP,

You do know what caused your rods to look like that dont you?



Sounds like you have a turbonetics kit and just slapped in the flashed ecu and didn't check the A/F and for knock. You might want to remedy this on your next attempt .
well i didnt install the kit. it was installed by VTR in NY. Either way, they warned me not to shift past 5500 on the stock block. me shifting at redline didnt really help either.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 01:20 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by athenG
This is why being able to do some logging is important. You can't really look at your gauge 100% of the time and that is why I try to do some logging especially when the Temperature changes dramatically.
that is why, im gonna do test after every major run i do. but now since im gettin a utec, i can do more.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 01:53 PM
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dude you dont have to do a test after every run just get the utec and have it tuned properly and enjoy.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 02:43 PM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by kevin8086
dude you dont have to do a test after every run just get the utec and have it tuned properly and enjoy.
even at that, you can still fudge spit up. ill deff get a utec and tuned but il still do a weekly check up.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 05:18 PM
  #54  
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Sorry for ur rods.. But if you're gonna rebuild it do yourself and your wallet a favor and have a professional rebuild the motor. The cam caps/shims do have to be remeasured and put on in the correct valve spot.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 05:57 PM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by 350 Rookie
well i didnt install the kit. it was installed by VTR in NY. Either way, they warned me not to shift past 5500 on the stock block. me shifting at redline didnt really help either.

So they swear about how good the Reflash and always push for them (I once called them and they hate Utec and they said it is garbage ) but tell their customer not to shift past 5500rpm? I can barely hold my self not to shift past 6000rpm..lol
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 06:10 PM
  #56  
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LOL. I beat my APS TT and unichip everyday. Bouncing off the limiter, 30kmiles completed so far.

The reason why some rods go and others dont can be attributed to a few factors. Manufacuring tolerances mostly. Some rods have weak points and arnt as over engineered as others. If a rod bends enough, it will usually take out the bearing and heat up and thats how windows appear. Some rods snap instead of bending. Some rods just bend and cause other problems (like compression drop, knockong on cylinders). Its just all part of the game when u boost an engine which wasnt designed for it.. Personally ive never seen 6bent rods before, but i have seen 4 bent (4cyl) on numerous occasions. One engine was making outragous power for many years, 50+ 1/4mile passes and finally packed it up on the street with 4bent rods.

Last edited by Weqster; Apr 21, 2008 at 06:16 PM.
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 06:19 PM
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Edit. Ignore.

Last edited by mchapman; Apr 21, 2008 at 06:21 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 10:27 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by Zexy
Sorry for ur rods.. But if you're gonna rebuild it do yourself and your wallet a favor and have a professional rebuild the motor. The cam caps/shims do have to be remeasured and put on in the correct valve spot.
thank you. ill have it measured and set up, then ill reassemble the motor.
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Old Apr 28, 2008 | 09:58 AM
  #59  
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alright well thank you for the people that didnt think i could do it. I just love challenges and when people dont think i can do stuff. More motivation

It took me about 4 hours today to get them all in the right spots. Then i got it checked out by a professional and he said, i did a good job. They are all within specs. well now thats out the way.

I also ordered a new block from forged performance. should be here by mid-end of may. damn i cant wait
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