ttg35fort

iTrader: (2)

I just realized that it was your build that really gave me the inspiration for the powder coating.

I just came accross my post on that subject in your thread, although at that time I didn't realize that I wouild be dropping my motor out so soon...

And yes, I was 17 a long time ago (my eldest sons are even older than that). I'm definitely going to pull the wing off when I'm not on the track. I was thinking about leaving it on out of pure laziness, but even my wife refuses to drive the car when the wing is on (which might be a good thing).

ttg35fort

iTrader: (2)

Got the pics posted (I'm going to take better ones once everything is done).

The prices on ceramic coating are not too bad. PolyDyn charges $33 per combusion chamber and $12 per exhaust port. I'm assuming the intake ports also will be $12.

I'm using PolyDyn because they were recommended to me both by Kyle at IPP and an Engineer I spoke with at Wiseco. Both of them have had good results with PolyDyn coated pistons, and they both said that coating the combustion chamber and valves should provide further benefit.

Fuzion is going to ceramic coat the turbo housings for $90 (I think that is for both, but I don't remember), both exhaust manifolds for $200 and both downpipes and the SGP wastegate relocation kit is $185. Bill is going to give me a price on the Greddy Exhaust when he sees it.

My engine bay gets hot. The first time I ran my car hard, there was a heat wave that hit me when I opened up my hood. My engine bay was very hot. I have since changed to the Siebon vented hood and added heatwrap to the downpipes, and that has helped alot. When I mount the full length underbody pan under the car, however, it likely will reduce airflow through the engine bay. The ceramic coating should help to keep heat from becoming an issue when the underbody pan is installed.

zman600

iTrader: (4)

wow.... just wow

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

Cool. At least I feel better that you are not going broke with the heat coatings. I've been told by several guys out in the field that the Jet Hot coating is a bunch of BS.
I actually think it helped me in my hot engine bay, when combined with the turbo blankets and especially wrapping the downpipes...it made a definite improvement in engine bay temps.
Let us know about that ticking problem. Again, I hope its nothing serious.

ttg35fort

iTrader: (2)

The ticking is intermittent. It only occurs when the engine is warm and between about 2000 and 3000 RPM.

The most obvious thing to look for after over-reving a motor is damage to the valve train. I don't think we bent a valve because the car is idling fine. One scenario could be that a valve spring is damaged, and a valve is touching a piston. This might explain the intermittent noise if the damaged valve spring is still able to pull the valve up to miss the piston when idling or after the cams advance.

It is all speculation at this point. We really won't know until we pull the engine out and inspect everything. I'm hoping it is something simple, but I'm not going to lose sleep over it. It's part of playing with high performance. It's also a good learning experience for me. I need to learn more patience. I should have been more careful to prevent damaging my F-CON when changing the wiring, and when John loaned me his F-CON late Friday night (the Homestead event started Sat. morning), I should have tested the rev limiter before shifting under WOT. I'm chaulking this up to experience, we'll fix the problem, and then keep moving forward.

It is worth noting that Roger was more upset with what happened after I over-reved the motor than I was, even though it was completely my fault. It is really nice to deal with somebody that sincerely cares about the cars he builds. I really like and trust him, and we have developed a great friendship.

Edit: Now that I think about it, I have spent alot of time at Japtrix and I am friends with everyone there. They're a great group of guys.

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

That must be nice to have someone relatively close to help you out. In NYC we have no one.

ttg35fort

iTrader: (2)

It has worked out great. Before I started my build, I first asked my business partner's brother if he wanted to do it for me. He owns his own shop and used to be fully entrenched in the drag racing scene. He referred me to Japtrix. Then I asked my neighbor, who raced oval track for many years, and he referred me to Japtrix.

Based on these recommendations I called Japtrix and started working with them. A few months later, I found out that Roger lives about a mile or two from me. Then I found out that Jack also lives fairly close (I even walked my dog over there to hang out with him one day). A very strange coincidence, but very comforting.

str8dum1

iTrader: (11)

Ya i can bet he was more upset, bc he knows he has to do all the work to troubleshoot. Not making that easy money like doin a brake job

ttg35fort

iTrader: (2)

No. He worked his but off to get me ready for Homestead. He was not happy that after all that work I wasn't able to go. I have worked with Roger long enough to know that Roger is not about money. Don't get me wrong, he needs to earn enough to keep the shop running, but he has a real passion for the cars he builds, and especially racing.

captj3

iTrader: (1)

You are 100% right about Roger. Most people here don't know or understand that he is not all about money. He acts the same way with my car. It's his adopted child...lol

ttg35fort

iTrader: (2)

Absolutely.

I've said it before, but I'll say it again... If I blow my motor or crash my car, he will more upset than me, and I am not exagerating.

westpak

iTrader: (19)

very nicely put, I have known Roger over 6 years now and you could not find a nicer guy, glad other are finding out.

ttg35fort

iTrader: (2)

We made progress today at Japtrix on identifying the damage I did to my motor when I over-reved it.

Nate meticulously disassembled my motor (while I stood there and gave him moral support ), and inspected everything. The Wiseco Pistons and Eagle rods are in perfect shape and there was no damage to the timing chain or the chain tensioner. However, my rod bearings (ACL) on the number 2 and 5 cylinders failed, most likely from the stress of the over-rev. Luckily, the crank looks to be in good shape, and may only need to be micro polished. The cylinders also looked to be in good shape.

The engine had brand new Mobile 1 synthetic oil, and I have two oil coolers with a rev-up oil pump, so oil should not have been an issue (although, per GTMs website, the oil channels in the stock crank are not optimal for high reving motors). Right now I am pondering over getting a GTM crank, which they claim has much improved oil channels that do a better job at flowing oil to the rod bearings.

Also, after the over-rev, oil started leaking into two of the intake ports, which indicates I damaged the valve guides and maybe even bent the valves on those ports. In addition, it looks like one of the valve springs (JWT) may have been damaged as one of the caps that make contact with the cam lobe (I don't know the actual name of that part) was sitting a little low, leaving a gap between the cap and the cam lobe. This is probably where the ticking sound came from. Luckily, we didn't see any evidence of the valves contacting the pistons.

They are sending the heads out tomorrow to be inspected by a machine shop that specializes in race engines. They'll be able to give us more details on the valve train damage.

Nate said the short block was built well. I purchased it from Import Parts Pro. The short block was balanced and blue printed, but not with the pully, clutch and fly wheel mounted to it. At Nate's suggestion, this time we are going to have the entire assembly balanced, including the pully, clutch and flywheel. Also, we will be adding a ATI damper/pully.

The Carbonetics Tripple Disk clutch seems to be holding well. There are some spots on the steel friction plates (which sit between the carbon clutch plates) that are slightly discolored from the heat, but Roger said that was to be expected with the hp I am putting out and not a significant issue. Comparing the Carbonetics clutch to my old Clutchmasters FX600, the Carbonetics clutch plates are much, much larger. The FX600 looks really small next to the Carbonetics, which is why it fried so easily.

Cass007

iTrader: (34)

Glad to hear you found the issues. Its still expensive, but could have been much worse. Hope you are up and running again shortly.

thom000001

Good luck....glad it wasn't a catastrophic failure.....how high did you over-rev it and with what cams too?

Tom

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

Not too bad overall. At least you have the ability to comfortably take the motor apart and dissect it at your leisure. Hope you are up and running soon. (within 1-2 months).

ttg35fort

iTrader: (2)

The cams are JWT C2's.

I have no idea of how high it reved, but the needle on my tachometer went as far as it can go. I'm guessing over 10,000 rpm.

As I indicated earlier, WOT shifting was working great with my F-CON. After I fried it when I crimped a wire that was still plugged into it, John let me borrow his F-CON. We reset the jumpers and loaded my map, but for some reason the rev limiter on his F-CON did not kick in when I did the WOT shift.

I have a new F-CON going in, but this time I am going to have roger set the rev limiter to something like 2500 rpm and fully test WOT shifting at that rpm to make sure everything is working flawlessly before I start trying it at higher rpms. I'll have him increase the rev limit in 1000 rpm steps and continue to test everything out along the way.

rrmedicx

iTrader: (54)

I don't blame you. Safety First! ; )

ttg35fort

iTrader: (2)

My ACR rod bearings on 2 of my cylinders were damaged when I over-reved the motor. The heads and valves look fine. There is still a question about one of the valve springs that appeared to be sitting lower after the over-rev, but after the head was pulled apart it looked fine. We have set that one aside and will probably just replace it.

My motor was balanced and blue printed, but not with the flywheel and clutch assembly attached. The carbonetics clutch and flywheel are suppoesed to be fairly well balanced, but this time we are going to balance everything together.

Now that the engine is apart, I'm making some changes to my build so I can play with the big dogs. Accordingly, I have some things now up for sale:

Greddy TD05H-18G Twin Turbo System and Full Exhaust System

-approximately 1000 miles on kit (the first 500 were a very easy break-in where I mostly stayed out of boost).

-Includes Greddy Intercooler, Greddy E-Manage, and the rest of the kit components.

Extras that are included:

-The Exhaust Manifolds are Ceramic coated inside and out with techline coating

-The turbo Housings are Ceramic coated inside and out with techline coating

-Turbo Blankets

-750 cc Fuel Injectors (in lieu of the standard 440 cc fuel injectors)

-Custom 3” Downpipes with SGP wastegate relocation kit, both ceramic coated inside and out with techline coating. The dumps are routed back into the downpipes, which keeps the sound level nice, but reasonable.

-APS 2.5" True Dual Exhaust (nearly brand new - installed, but removed from car before the car was ever started)

I'm asking $7,000 for the entire setup. Price new for everything would be over $10,000. As noted, just about 1000 miles on the Greddy, 500 of them during breakin. The APS Exhaust has 0 miles.

Although I would rather sell everything together, let me know if anyone is interested in just the APS exhaust or just the Greddy Twin Turbo kit. We can work up a good price.

EDIT: I AM ONLY GOING TO SELL THE DOWNPIPES WITH THE SGP WASTEGATE RELOCATION KIT IF AND WHEN THE GREDDY TWIN TURBO KIT SELLS. In other words, I'll sell the Greddy twin turbo kit by itself or with the downpipes/WG relocation kit, but I've decided not to sell the downpipes/WG relocation kit before then (just in case I don't receive a reasonable offer for the Greddy TT kit, in which case I may have to put my custom turbo idea on hold for a while). If the Greddy TT kit sells without the downpipes/SGP W/G relogation kit, then the downpipes/SGP W/G relocation kit will be available for sale.

Nonetheless, the APS 2.5" True Dual Exhaust is available for sale on its own, regardless of whether any of the other items are sold.

One note, the APS 2.5" True Dual Exhaust is setup for the G35. I will check to see what is necessary for it to fit a 350Z.

D-tuned

iTrader: (3)

I'm interested in the aps exhaust, pm the price shipped to 23452