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Forced Induction Turbochargers and Superchargers..Got Boost?

Tial 50mm BOV users....

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Old 08-28-2008, 08:08 AM
  #21  
IIQuickSilverII
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Originally Posted by SnyperZ
Im in the process of getting setup for my build..I thought id be ok with 4psi....and the excitement is over..I need 15-20 for street driving. One thing ill tell you is I can dead hook on 4psi in first(weird) and it just goes. I raced a friend of mine last night with a 463whp fwd talon..and I gave him a spankin until the end of 4th and that was from a first gear roll.
nice...... the sligh lag helps put the power to the ground too even though the gt37r will be probably the most responsive turbo you have used mark
anyways....haha i knew you would be doing your engine build earlier. Are you still doing the same parts you told me last time for your engine build?
Old 08-28-2008, 08:20 AM
  #22  
SnyperZ
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Originally Posted by IIQuickSilverII
nice...... the sligh lag helps put the power to the ground too even though the gt37r will be probably the most responsive turbo you have used mark
anyways....haha i knew you would be doing your engine build earlier. Are you still doing the same parts you told me last time for your engine build?

funny part is..if you know how to use it..theres 0 lag..my car pulls INSTANTLY if you keep it in the right range..and on shifts theres also no noticable lag. And yes im still doing all the parts I said and the ones suggested by you and others.
Old 08-28-2008, 08:24 AM
  #23  
UMW350Z
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4 psi should have you around 350 hpr at very very best....i'd be interested to see your horsepower readout
Old 08-28-2008, 08:39 AM
  #24  
SnyperZ
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Originally Posted by UMW350Z
4 psi should have you around 350 hpr at very very best....i'd be interested to see your horsepower readout
Not true..someone on the 35r made more power than that. Don't forget I have the 37r. However I am running through the stock exhaust...once I get the cutout and tune done it should exceed 350whp.
Old 08-28-2008, 08:55 AM
  #25  
UMW350Z
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my setup is pretty optimal and at 6 psi i am at 360 DD CATTED (400+ DJ)....you with a stock exhaust at 4 psi should not have more power than me, the physics don't favor your claim no matter the mass airflow of that turbo and exhaust restrition. just having a hard time believing you could overcome a car with that much power over you unless his power peaks exponentially
Old 08-28-2008, 09:21 AM
  #26  
SnyperZ
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1. My car at 4psi will flow a good amount more air than your car at 4ps. Your cats are prolly just as restrictive(maybe a little less) than my exhaust. If I had the same exact setup as your car with the different turbo on the same PSI id easily make 20+whp more than you. PSI is a measurement of restriction...theres more room inside my turbo so at 4pounds per square inch theres more "inches" to fill up inside my turbo(even though its not actually full inches..but you get the point)


2. Why would I lie about beating that car? If you read it again I spanked him until 4th(I guess I should of finished the rest of the sentence)..he was pulling on my hard by the end of 4th. The only reason I beat him is because of traction issues...however I still beat him. I had enough of a lead in the first 2 gears for him not to be able to go ahead of me till the end of 4th.
Old 08-29-2008, 10:37 PM
  #27  
SnyperZ
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Going from the 11psi spring to the 9psi spring made a huge difference..but it still isnt perfect. Im gonna try the 7 and see if it completely eliminates the issue.
Old 08-30-2008, 02:50 PM
  #28  
superchargedg
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Originally Posted by IIQuickSilverII
sure if you plan on keeping you stock block fo 100k miles...
i have set to see a member go over 50k boosted miles on the stock motor(vq)....

i think miaplaya is close to that at some point but not sure if he even has his Z anymore
I hear it all the time as it sounds like a pigeon on my auto g35.Should i adjust my greddy bov valve or not.And what way to adjust it.
Old 09-01-2008, 07:28 PM
  #29  
SnyperZ
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To add..to the list of reasons why its important..is BRAKING. Everyone knows thats brakes work off of vacuum..and that vacuum lines turn into boost lines..(under boost)..well what happens is..since the BOV doesnt open right away on the heavier springs it holds the boost in the lines for a split second..anyone go from boost immediately to brakes??...they dont wory for a split second..they feel the same as when the car is off. If the gate FULLY opens right away like its supposed to..it lets all that boost out right away.
Old 09-03-2008, 12:00 PM
  #30  
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Ok I stepped down to the 7lbs spring.

11lbs: It fluttered badly and id get some surge, 0 brakes right off throttle
9lbs: Fluttered VERY little, very little surge but still there..also 0 brakes right off throttle but it would come back quicker
7lbs: No flutter at all, no surge, and I now have brakes right off of boost.


seems like even though im pullin vacuum in the 9lbs spring range..it still didn't completely fix the problem. You can tell if its working properly because the BOV is supposed to open up at startup and stay open during idle and snap shut when you touch the throttle. 11psi spring didnt move, the 9psi it moved slightly but didnt open and opened very slightly upon hitting/releasing the gas quickly and the 7 doesnt open up ALL the way but about 60% at idle and would open all the way upon hittin/releasing the gas quickly.
Old 09-04-2008, 06:48 AM
  #31  
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I am still learning about the internal mechanism of BOV as I read this, I am using the HKS BOV with my TT set-up. I do not have the flutter effect I am guessing because they have the proper spring in there or is it just the difference in design? Any thoughts?
Old 09-04-2008, 08:31 AM
  #32  
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The Newer HKS's are self adjusting pull type bov's.

Similar to the Synchronics.
Old 09-04-2008, 09:15 AM
  #33  
SnyperZ
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Originally Posted by rrmedicx
I am still learning about the internal mechanism of BOV as I read this, I am using the HKS BOV with my TT set-up. I do not have the flutter effect I am guessing because they have the proper spring in there or is it just the difference in design? Any thoughts?
Yeah they are a different design. My brother has a FORGE BOV on his Evo thats fully adjustable by turning the top. The tial BOV is a little different..more old school.
Old 09-04-2008, 09:35 AM
  #34  
Driver06
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That brakes thing can be f-in scary, especially when your haulin ***. I'm used to road racing an all motor car, where everything is instantanious.. now I have to wait for the power AND the brakes...wtf lol
""And the excitement is over"" ha ha, thats going to happen with whatever you do.. its always fast for a week, then its like, this sucks, I need mo Powa!!
I knew 4lbs wasnt going to be enough for you, even for a little while... So whats it going to be up to by Friday?
Old 09-04-2008, 10:45 AM
  #35  
SnyperZ
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Originally Posted by Driver06
That brakes thing can be f-in scary, especially when your haulin ***. I'm used to road racing an all motor car, where everything is instantanious.. now I have to wait for the power AND the brakes...wtf lol
""And the excitement is over"" ha ha, thats going to happen with whatever you do.. its always fast for a week, then its like, this sucks, I need mo Powa!!
I knew 4lbs wasnt going to be enough for you, even for a little while... So whats it going to be up to by Friday?
Haha, well if your brother would ever get back to me!!!! Id be able to turn it up a bit and finally get the motor rebuild going. I need 25lbs.
Old 09-11-2008, 10:31 AM
  #36  
UMW350Z
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FYI I contacted TiAL about this issue and they asked for my vacuum reading (inHG). I am going to stick a gauge on next week and use one of the accurate meters from work.

Idle vacuum is the yardstick for determining correct spring application.
Old 09-11-2008, 12:39 PM
  #37  
Speqz
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Could the 11psi spring on our cars cause the diaphram on the Tial to jam open?

After about 400 miles on my BOV it no longer wants to close all the way and is leaking boost. You can hear a screeching sound everytime you let off the gas and im only getting 8psi out of the 9.2 im suppose to be getting and thats with the needle shaking like a crack fiend.

PL is shipping me another one, I would assume it has the same spring inside that came with my original one. These BOV's should come with the correct spring sizes regardless of if it is doing any damage to or not. For a kit with such high quality parts and high price tag cutting corners on something as tiny as that is ugh..retarded
Old 09-11-2008, 12:50 PM
  #38  
SnyperZ
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Originally Posted by Speqz
Could the 11psi spring on our cars cause the diaphram on the Tial to jam open?

After about 400 miles on my BOV it no longer wants to close all the way and is leaking boost. You can hear a screeching sound everytime you let off the gas and im only getting 8psi out of the 9.2 im suppose to be getting and thats with the needle shaking like a crack fiend.

PL is shipping me another one, I would assume it has the same spring inside that came with my original one. These BOV's should come with the correct spring sizes regardless of if it is doing any damage to or not. For a kit with such high quality parts and high price tag cutting corners on something as tiny as that is ugh..retarded
No It would stay shut. The spring pushes it closed and the vacuum pulls up on it. And spring pressure doesnt matter with how much boost your running. Are you sure its sticking open? At idle the BOV is supposed to be completely open and as soon as you give it some gas its supposed to snap shut.
Old 09-11-2008, 12:54 PM
  #39  
SnyperZ
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Originally Posted by UMW350Z
FYI I contacted TiAL about this issue and they asked for my vacuum reading (inHG). I am going to stick a gauge on next week and use one of the accurate meters from work.

Idle vacuum is the yardstick for determining correct spring application.
Thats true for the most part. Im pulling 18hg or so at idle which calls for the 9lbs spring. However it wasnt the case. As stated in the last post at idle the BOV should be completely open and should snap open and closed with ease upon giving it gas. The 11lbs didnt open at all at idle and it needed boost to force it to open. I then went according to their diagram and used a 9lbs spring. When I used that one it would open ever so slightly at idle. Driving around I still got flutter but it was much better. I then bought the 7lbs spring just to try it out. Now at idle it fully opens and snaps open and closed. Also theres absolutely no flutter just a nice even sound of air coming out. The 7 is the one id recommend even though your idle will call for a 9.
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