ok guys i purchased the cipher today so i will be doing a log to see if i can narrow down the root of my problems.

Does anyone have a log they could send me so i can use it as a baseline to compare my #'s of off?

 

Slightly unrelated question here, but what can the Navigator do that the CAMP2 can't do?

 

The navigator is a self contained unit while the camp 2 requires an additional display. I have not looked at the Camp 2 in detail but they seem to be very similar in their basic functions. Camp2 allows you to do more with displays.

I just got the navigator for insurance to make sure the Fcon was getting the signals it needed mainly the air fuel since I have the feedback activated.

Also the navigator doesn't require any wiring other than a wire between the navigator and the Fcon.

So if you want more flashy displays and have the external display the Camp 2 looks like it would be cool to have, but it is also more expensive.

 

[QUOTE=westpak;6391077]

I just got the navigator for insurance to make sure the Fcon was getting the signals it needed mainly the air fuel since I have the feedback activated.

QUOTE]

Yeah i got the navigator for its simplicity. I have a double din dvd player in my car, but i didn't feel like hasseling w/ running all the wires associated w/ the camp 2 and honestly i feel the camp 2 is kind of gimiky.

 

[QUOTE=chris'smax;6392318]If by gimiky you mean baller as fuq, then I agree.

 

So i guess you are the anti baller because you refused to get one

 

update!! its not the fcon or any fcon settings.


nothing could possibly change after 1000 miles and a week of driving.

 

Also...it looks like for now maps CANNOT be changed using the Camp2...you still have to use the Navigator to do that


Anti-Baller

 

well guys keep your fingers crossed!!!!!

I think me and adam from Z1 have maybe come up w/ a answer. Adam called me saturday and notified me his car was having the same problem (generally speaking). His car would start to backfire and run rough after about 20 mins of running(mine does this and shuts off after a few seconds of it). Just like mine his car only ran fine when cool.

We are thinking it might actually be our altenators are about to take a dump. He hooked up a hks dli today and said the car ran longer than it had been and it never shut off on him (maybe because of the amplified voltage to the coilpacks)! He said he logged the voltage and the whole time his voltage was lower than what was specified in the FSM. The FSM states the min should be 14v at idle, well mine is running 12.8-12.9 at idle with just the radio on. Adams was running about 13.3 i think at idle today when he logged w/ the dli.
We shall see though. I am going to log mine tommorow when my cipher comes in.

Tonight i might try running the car w/ a battery charger on it to see if that alleviates the problem

 

I'll say a prayer at the dinner table tonight just for you.

 

as your laying into a pizza fatboy?

 

All jokes aside I really do hope it is the alternator, but I still have my doubts. Either way I hope you get this resolved as soon as possible and you get back out to enjoying the car.

 

I feel the same way also...because mine stays in the 13's and I dont have those issues

 

The voltage will vary from 13V to about 14.5V range, depending on a bunch of factors, including temperature, battery charge, and electrical load.

I too am skeptical, becuase if your alternator was shatting....the car would still run on battery power for a while, and then once the engine died...the battery would be too dead to even attempt at restarting the car. Sounds like your battery is charging correctly, since you havent reported that your battery has been dieing during this ordeal.

Keep us posted.

 

Actually that's a good point Sharif, back when I had my 350Z(the good ol' days), I removed the cluster to send it out to get fixed, but I had to drive the car, needless to say I drove about 15 miles before my battery died because without the cluster in place the alternator will not charge.

So even if your alternator was bad the car would run fine for a set amount of time before your battery died, but this obviously isn't the case.

Have you made a list of variables that have changed from when the car was running correctly to now? Altitude, temperature, etc. This will help us narrow things down for you.

Hopefully you figure this out soon, its a bit hard to diagnose cars over the internet

 

No real changes in temp or altitude. The car was tuned in orlando and i live in Baton Rouge La which both have hot muggy climates and are both around sea level. The car ran fine for about 1000 miles then bam, it started this mess.

My line of thinking is that maybe the altenator is malfunctioning only whenever there is enough heat generated (ie. heat is causing some kind of resistance)

 

The only problem with that is that the battery would still have enough power to run the engine until it dies, at which the car would not crank over after it dies, it doesn't seem like this has happened to you.

Can you recall anything changing before the problem appeared?

 

I had the motor built and a new fcon installed so there were a lot of changes all at once.

I only had the car back a couple of days before the problem appeared. Jeremy tuned the car and drove it around for a couple of days before i picked it up and drove it 800 miles home. The next day i ran it all day and no issues occured until that night. I really don't think it is something w/ the tune due to these circumstances. IMO it has to be something electircal.

It isn't the motor (no noises/good oil pressure/purs like a kitten)
Vaccum is good
All the Fcon sensors appear to be functioning
No SES light and there aren't any codes.

I am just resorting to the process of elimination here

 

What is your Vacuum at idle? Do the rpms fluctuate a lot before it dies or does it just die? Also could you elaborate on the backfire, and when exactly it occurs (accelerating, decel, etc)

 

Vaccum is 9hg at idle. Normal idle is around 1100rpm

Scenario: Say the car is sitting in the driveway (Runs for about 15 mins till the following happens)
The rpms are rock solid till out of no where the rpms dip to about 300 rpms where it fluctuates up and down to about 600 rpms. The backfiring only occurs occurs occasionally once the rpms dip and start fluctuating. It will fluctuate for about 5-6 seconds then it just kills

Now say i am driving the car. If i am driving the car the car runs perfectly fine. I can have my foot on the throttle and all of a sudden it will just do the same scenario as described above. Also the weird thing is i cannot give it throttle to save it. Its as if the car will not even respond to it.