OK, I started my install on Thursday afternoon. I worked for 3 hours doing the preparation for install, which included rerouting some wiring harnesses, replumbing the PS fluid cooler, and hacking off some extra parts that are no longer needed.

Friday, I worked for about 6 hours and have the install about 90% complete. The only thing left is to mount and pipe the intercooler.

I quit last night because I couldn't figure out how to get the intercooler pipes and hoses to fit right. The one coming out of the SC and into the IC appear to be too long unless I'm doing something wrong. Also I can't figure out how to plumb the bypass valve with the hoses supplied. I just can't get that 90degree hose to fit right.

Here is a list of the things I've noticed are wrong up until this point. Obviously, I still haven't finished the IC piping and I haven't done the PCV installation.

1. It works ok, but the boost sense hose from manifold to FMU needs to be about 2 foot longer

2. Pictures in manual often use different parts or are taken at the wrong point in the installation.

3. Radiator overflow tank needs to be removed, not the windshield washer tank as stated in the manual.

4. Power steering fluid cooler plumbing and mounting is not explained properly.

5. In addition to the listed tools, you also need anti-sieze, loctite, and epoxy

6. Serpentine belt should be installed during the installation of the main bracket, not afterwards. Otherwise you have to remove the idler pulleys, which is a PITA.

7. Triangular compressor bracket does not fit. I left it off entirely.

All in all it is a fairly straightforward install. If you don't know anything about cars, I wouldn't recommend attempting it yourself. There are just a lot of things that are not explained in detail enough for the inexperienced to understand.

If anybody has a how-to on the tuning of this thing, it's be great. The manual how-to doesn't seem like it provides enough specifics for my taste.

 

Jesse, I couldnt agree with you more on every point you made....my system is just about finished and I ran into the SAME problems......as for the intercooler piping...I had to cut some of the hoses to fit (as per the manual)....I too left the triangular plate off the blower bracket....it WOULDNT FIT!!!!! Let me know if you have any questions. Maybe we can get through this together!

Dan

 

Thanks, don't suppose you've got a close up pic of the bypass valve hoses and the IC hoses and pipe?

How did you splice into the aux power wires. I've pulled the plug out and can't figure out how to remove the wires from the connector without just cutting the crap out of them. Did you pull the glove box out?

Also are you going to tune the system yourself or have a professional do it?

 

Some comments on each item in Jesse's list:

1. I agree, I extended mine to make it work.
2. Agreed, it sometimes helps to flip through the manual and look for pictures in different sections...
3. Yep, one of the glaring errors in the manual
4. The manual is pretty vague, but it is pretty open to do it the way you see fit. As long as it fits in behind the IC, you're ok.
5. I didn't need any epoxy, which is used to put the new end on the hood prop rod. What I did was cut the rod a little shorter, so the two "nubs" on the rod could be used to create an interference fit. The nubs will need to be ground down a bit, but this worked great for me.
6. You can install the serpentine belt without removing the idler pulleys. I'm not sure I can explain how to do it, but once you figure it out its quite easy to do.
7. I had the same problem, but I made it fit even though it looks like crap now. I talked to ATI about this, with both the kit engineer and the tech service manager on the line, and they said the bracket is completely unnecessary. Easy fix.

As far as the IC piping goes, it will be a somewhat trial and error process. I just adjusted mine to keep everything tucked as tight as I could. It still ended up pushing on the fender liner very badly, but that's just the way it is.

For the bypass valve, I couldn't make the included hoses work either. I used some hoses I had laying around and ended up with a very nice fit for the valve. I'll post a picture in a bit....

 

Unfortunately, I have the $5K to pay for a supercharger kit but dont have a digital camara....go figure. As for the EFMU wiring into the auxillary outlet (cigarette lighter) I just SPLICED into the red power wire that connects the cig. lighter....do not cut......then attatch and either sauder or tape off.....this isnt as hard as it looks....if you have experience with stereo installs it is no prob. \\

Dan

 

Pics of how I plumbed the bypass valve. I like this much better because there is a ton of clearance on all sides of it. I forgot to think about which way it should go in, so I need to get in there and see if it is in the preferable way. It will work in either direction, but it would be better to install so the "flapper" inside opens toward the boost side so that when closed the pressure helps keep it closed.

 

Yowzers! thats some piping for ya-

as far as the EFMU. do you know how much pwr draw it's taking.. i.e. will that fuse hold up if you're running the car and say, plug in a lap top charger or something to that same line?

 

Excellent pic Gary, thanks. I finished the piping install last night and it looks exactly like yours now except my bypass valve is the opposite direction. How did you run your hose from the PCV T connector to the Air filter. The only way I could get mine to fit was to run it directly under the headlight because it was way too short to run along the blower discharge tube. Oh and about the epoxy. I also used it to attach the 90degree fitting onto the end of the air filter.

Keepup, about the splice. I guess I'll just go get a splice connector. I was hoping there was another way but this will work fine. I've also got to find a good chassis ground in the back for the FMU because I did not run the black wire through the firewall.

Where did you guys put the additional fuel pump. Right now I've just kind of shoved it down between the Power Steering fluid tank and radiator overflow tank.

 

Jesse, take a look at your bypass valve and see which way it opens inside. It will work either way, but it may be better to install it a certain way depending on how it mechanically works. I might pull mine apart and look if I get a chance.

I ran the pcv line to the air filter by going through the small opening below the headlight.

If there isn't already a place in the back to bolt the ground wire to, you could probably drill a hole in the sheetmetal under the glove box to pick up the ground.

The fuel pump is secured to a black bracket that is on the front of the strut tower. In this pic, the pump is sitting near the final position, but needs to move forward some so it can be clamped to the bracket:

 

I placed the fuel pump right next to the power steering reservoir.....one question, how does the vacuum line (i think that is what it is) connect into the air filter??? There is no connector on the air filter...do I drill a hole and pop it in? HELP!!!1 this is th only thing left to do. Thanks!

Dan

 

Gary...1 more thing...if you can, please post a pick of you pcv hoses and exactly where they went.... the instructions for this part are not very clear......just want to make sure everything is correct......that would be of GREAT help. Thanks!

Dan

 

The line that goes to the air filter is the pcv line. You need to make a hole in the end of the filter and use the 90 degree barb fitting. I actually drilled a hole in the end of the filter with a nice sharp bit. The hole should be quite a bit smaller than the barb fitting, so you can just press it in and it will be tight. If you are worried about leaks, use epoxy or something to seal it.

 

Here are some pics that show what I think you are looking for...

 

Nice to see the website working the way it's supposed to. Installs look nice guys.

 

Gary, I just started the car and the serpentine belt is making HUGE amounts of noise....did you encounter this?

Dan

 

You probably don't have it tight enough. Mine slipped a little on a cold start, but I tightened it just a little more and the problem seems to be solved. The belt tension is about what the manual recommends.

 

Just ran into another problem.....the "Quick Connect" supplied by ATI to connect the new fuel pump to the fuel line just came undone under normal pressure and sprayed fuel out....is there a trick to these things? Maybe I did something wrong? Doyou or anyone else have a pic of this?

Dan

 

No trick to the fuel line connections, just make sure the clip that locks the line on is in place.

 

Guys, I suppose I could resort to actually reading the owners manual but where exactly do you 1) drain and 2) add the oil to the Procharger. Could you post a pic with arrows or something. Thanks a lot.

 

keepupp, make sure you have the right plastic clip with the correct connector. I had some difficulty getting them to connect properly, thought I had it because it sounded like it clicked, but then it just fell off when I pulled on it. Make sure you put the plastic clip onto the male connector first and then slide the female connector over it.

Gary, I'm going to pull of my intake pipe tomorrow because I can't get the hood to close properly. I think it's the intake pipe, but it's hard to tell because it's so dark. I'll look at the bypass valve and let you know what it looks like. From the outside, it looks like the pivot is in the center so it shouldn't matter, but I'll know for sure tomorrow. Regarding the chassis ground, I pulled up the center console and there was a perfect bolt under there not 1 foot from the FMU. I think you got more pcv hose than I did because I just barely had enough line to fit it on and there's no way in hell I could run it in front of the air filter, the fit was that close.

I blew a fuse to the aux power connector. I hooked up the battery and turned the key on. I hooked up a multimeter and I've got no voltage there. I'm having a hell of a time finding the correct fuse anyone know where it is an what it's labeled as?