zerosec

iTrader: (3)

So I went ahead and bought myself an APS TT kit for my Z a couple of months back, but I haven't gotten around to installing it yet. In the meantime, a lot of my friends have done some serious modding to their cars and I don't want to be the slowest of the bunch so I've decided to take the leap and build my engine up

Basically these are the parts combination I'm looking at:

9-9.5:1 compression pistons of any reputable brand in STANDARD bore
eagle h-beam rods
cometic head gaskets
ACT HDSS clutch
ACL bearings
1-step colder NGKs
650cc injectors
UTEC
Bigger radiator
262 degree cams with 10.5mm lift
stock plenum with 5/16" MD spacer
Snow Performance Stage II water injection kit

Note that I have deliberately left out ARP head and main studs, because I will be limiting myself to 15-16psi on account of the frailness of the open-deck block, rendering the upgraded hardware useless - unless of course the stock head bolts are of the torque-to-yield type and would need replacing anyway. Please advise... I also neither want to sleeve my bores or bore them out because I am currently overseas, and I haven't got a machine shop I can entrust with this, and have no intention of shipping a fully built-block in from the US, besides my engine only has 20k miles on it so the bores are probably still fresh..

Regarding the clutch, I would be pushing the HDSS to the limit of its holding capacity and a little past, any other recommendations for a single, sprung, organic-derived clutch kit? No metallics and certainly no unsprung clutches please!

As for engine management, will the UTEC be enough to handle this kind of output or would I absolutely HAVE TO go with a standalone? I already have a UTEC with all the bells and whistles and would hate to have to sell it if I don't absolutely have to.

Finally we come to return fuel systems, do I need any of those with the APS TT kit (which comes with a "semi-return fuel system") or is the included setup good enough to suit my needs?

Constructive feedback is always welcome, please let me know what you think of my plans, as I was looking to order the remainder of the parts I need as soon as this weekend!

deanfootlong

iTrader: (10)

go with 9.0:1 comp pistons, l19 head studs, and get a fuel return system. you can stay with the utec and try it out but ultimately, get a standalone to maximize your set up. you need a return system that increases fuel pressure based on atmospheric pressure. as boost goes up, the fuel pressure will rise. stock will not do that.

GTM

iTrader: (12)

May I recommend the following:

Engine:
Arias Extreme Duty Pistons 8.6:1 CR
Eagle Connecting Rods
OEM VQ35HR Head Gaskets
OEM VQ35HR Head Bolts
ARP Main bolts
ACL Bearings
GTM Stage 2 Cams

Fuel:
CJM Stage 1 RFS
Walbro 255 pump
Deatchwerks 600cc Denso Injectors
Rev-Up lower Plenum
Motordyne ISO Thermal Plenum Spacer kit

EMS:
Haltech / FCon Vpro

Water injection:
Aquamist HFS-5 set at about 20% water-to-fuel ratio


Shoot me a PM if you have any questions and I'll send you my cell.

-George

eltness350

iTrader: (58)

george knows....call him asap and u will not be dissapointed!!
if u got the cash...do some port work in the heads with the cams also

Dynasty.Zero

iTrader: (4)

Is there any reason you would recommend the 8.6:1 CR pistons as opposed to 9:1. Because that's what Sam recommended for me to get when I was doing my build.

GTM

iTrader: (12)

Personal Preference.

We have done plenty of both. My car has the 8.6:1 CR pistons.

Dynasty.Zero

iTrader: (4)

You're also running HOW many PSI?

When do I get to see the orange beast?

Cass007

iTrader: (34)

Get rid of the Utec - Haltec, f-con or Autronic.

Go with the HKS gaskets if you want metal or get the stock HR gaskets.

+1 on th fuel pump and return system as well.

GTM

iTrader: (12)

17

Let me know next time you are in the neighborhood

zerosec

iTrader: (3)

George,
Interesting point on the HR head gaskets and head bolts, I will definitely look into that some more. I should add that where I live we have ready access to decent 98RON (equivalent to 93 AKI in the US) gas, and a CR 8.6 is a bit too low for that. Ideally I'd get something in the range of 9.2-9.4 depending on what I can find. 20% water/fuel ratio is a good starting point, but I prefer to think in terms of water/air ratio, in which case 1.5-2% is what we're looking for.

I should have added that I already have a Walbro 255lph pump, why go with the 600cc Deatchwerks if I already have 650cc Siemens-Deka injectors?
Could somebody also please explain to me why the APS setup isn't good enough and I need to go with another RFS? I'm not being cynical, just want to understand/learn.. Also why isn't the UTEC good enough for my needs?

I was also considering modifying the upper manifold to shorten the intake runners a bit for more high-rpm power. I would like to run a 7250-7500rpm redline and make decent power up there in the process to get the most out of my kit without turning up the boost too much. I might do a mild port/clean-up job on the heads while I'm in there as well... I already have an MD spacer.
Oh and what's the difference between the Rev-Up lower manifold and the regular lower-manifold?


I really appreciate the input I've gotten on my project so far, thanks a lot guys!

Dynasty.Zero

iTrader: (4)

UTEC has issues controlling larger injectors from what I understand. Plus 10x10 resolution isn't optimal for tuning.

I have been/driven boosted Z's with the UTEC and it feels night and day from my F-Con VPro.

I ran the Unichip on APS TT prior to blowing my motor. It was "adequate" for my power levels and whatnot. Before I had driven a car running a standalone I thought it was really good. Then I got my F-Con and it was a night and day difference. Any standalone worth their salt should feel the same way IMHO.

BrianLG35C

iTrader: (2)

+1

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

I cannot see how you will be able to run a stock bore unless you tear down the motor, spec out each hole and have pistons custom built to accomodate them. You can't just buy a stock bore piston and expect them to drop right in and have proper clearances. Aftermarket forged pistons have different clearence specs than OEM and that alone would have me very concerned about not overboring/honing to get proper specs...

15-16 psi is still a lot of boost and things will break at those levels... don't for a second think because you are only running 16 psi that you can get a way with a lower budget build

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

zerosec

iTrader: (3)

Zivman,
Stock pistons are all nominally 95.5mm in diameter, but fall into 3 or so tolerance groups to keep clearances, and thus piston slap and oil consumption to an absolute minimum. Aftermarket pistons in a STD bore will have been deliberately designed to be a little SMALLER than the stock pistons due to the higher thermal expansion coefficient of forged pistons, so there should be little reason to worry. Sure there will be more piston slap when the engine is cold but that's going to happen with forged pistons no matter what you do.

Zivman

iTrader: (19)

I still wouldn't assume the stock bore of the motor.

phunk

iTrader: (21)

i executed that theory once in 04 or 05 for a guy who thought the same thing. engine sounded like a diesel truck. before i even bothered to tell him to come back in from out of state i just said the hell with it and rebuilt it again out of my own pocket it was so bad.

DaveFunction2ND

iTrader: (8)

Utec is 10 x 36. Its 10 load units can also be expanded or contracted to provide more or less resolution.

zerosec

iTrader: (3)

Interesting experience there Phunk, I would imagine that the motor you were dealing with was on the high-side of the factory tolerance groups, hence all the piston slap. Incidentally what pistons did you use for that motor?

Perhaps it would be prudent to check the tolerance group of the pistons/bores on my engine before proceeding any further with this?

I was looking to buy Mahle's Powerpack Pistons, in 4032-alloy which has almost the same expansion rate (and thus operating clearances) as the factory cast pistons, and is a lot better than 2619-alloy pistons in that regard. Just so you know, OEM forged pistons usually come in a 4032 (or similar) alloy, so these should help greatly with the piston slap and oil-consumption issues... Anybody used these on a built block before?

Cass007

iTrader: (34)

Based on the research that i have done on built motors, it seems that the bulk of the pistons used by members are Arias 8.5 or 9.0:1. I have never heard another member speak of matching the expansion rate of the stock pistons. Most of us just have the block bored .20 over and buy pistons to match.