APS TT & Oil Level Question
So I'm checking my oil religiously, like twice a day religiously . . . yes my paranoia is great but that's not the point.
I know the full mark for APS TT is the "low" mark.
The question I have is if the oil is like 2 or 2mm "below" the low mark is that considered normal with the APS TT. But low mark I mean EXACTLY where the line is not above/below.
Or am I being freakishly paranoid, I know checking for the correct oil level is a pain in the azz with our dipsticks.
I know the full mark for APS TT is the "low" mark.
The question I have is if the oil is like 2 or 2mm "below" the low mark is that considered normal with the APS TT. But low mark I mean EXACTLY where the line is not above/below.
Or am I being freakishly paranoid, I know checking for the correct oil level is a pain in the azz with our dipsticks.
Although everyone says they have problems, mine is fine at the regular level
I made custom drain lines & use mobil 1 synthetic 15w-50 plus a Lucas synthetic additive. Total of 6.5 quarts!
Smooth idle & no more SES(random multiple cylinder misfire) after install of the Husky oil catch can & the switch from regular castrol 10w-30.

I made custom drain lines & use mobil 1 synthetic 15w-50 plus a Lucas synthetic additive. Total of 6.5 quarts!
Smooth idle & no more SES(random multiple cylinder misfire) after install of the Husky oil catch can & the switch from regular castrol 10w-30.
So I'm checking my oil religiously, like twice a day religiously . . . yes my paranoia is great but that's not the point.
I know the full mark for APS TT is the "low" mark.
The question I have is if the oil is like 2 or 2mm "below" the low mark is that considered normal with the APS TT. But low mark I mean EXACTLY where the line is not above/below.
Or am I being freakishly paranoid, I know checking for the correct oil level is a pain in the azz with our dipsticks.
I know the full mark for APS TT is the "low" mark.
The question I have is if the oil is like 2 or 2mm "below" the low mark is that considered normal with the APS TT. But low mark I mean EXACTLY where the line is not above/below.
Or am I being freakishly paranoid, I know checking for the correct oil level is a pain in the azz with our dipsticks.
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Couple thoughts on this from my experience:
I've always filled my APS-TT to the "half-way" mark on the dipstick. Heck, I've even run it all the way at the full level without issue.
Use a good 10w-40 in the winter and a 15w-50 in the summer. Synthetic.
Also, install that hefty APS check valve in between the intake manifold and the PCV valve. Better yet, also install a catch can while you are at it. The check valve will keep boost from leaking into the crankcase. I tested a couple of stock PCV valves and they start leaking at 5 psi.
Run an oil cooler and if living in a cold climate, be sure to use an oil thermostat like the ones from Mocal to keep the oil comfortably above 180F.
I've always filled my APS-TT to the "half-way" mark on the dipstick. Heck, I've even run it all the way at the full level without issue.
Use a good 10w-40 in the winter and a 15w-50 in the summer. Synthetic.
Also, install that hefty APS check valve in between the intake manifold and the PCV valve. Better yet, also install a catch can while you are at it. The check valve will keep boost from leaking into the crankcase. I tested a couple of stock PCV valves and they start leaking at 5 psi.
Run an oil cooler and if living in a cold climate, be sure to use an oil thermostat like the ones from Mocal to keep the oil comfortably above 180F.
Are some of you guys seriously running 6 to 6.5 quarts of oil with the APS TT kit?
I've always used five and my tuner and shop says it should only go to the "low" mark.
I'm starting to get inconsistent readings between cold and warmed-down readings, also seems to be inconsistent when the ambient temperature changes. Sometimes I flip out thinking I'm lower than I should be, then I check at a different time and it seems to be pretty fine.
Those of you guys using 6 quarts of oil or so, do you have any smoking issues?
Hey westlutes you are in SoCal right? Can I ask who did your build/tune? Thanks
I've always used five and my tuner and shop says it should only go to the "low" mark.
I'm starting to get inconsistent readings between cold and warmed-down readings, also seems to be inconsistent when the ambient temperature changes. Sometimes I flip out thinking I'm lower than I should be, then I check at a different time and it seems to be pretty fine.
Those of you guys using 6 quarts of oil or so, do you have any smoking issues?
Hey westlutes you are in SoCal right? Can I ask who did your build/tune? Thanks
I have built motor and twin APS and I ALWAYS put 5 quarts in
at oil change time and the reading on the dipstick after sitting
overnight should be at the LOW mark. Reason is pan is deeper
but there has to be room for the oil returning from the turbos or
they wont drain properly and could start smoking issues. 5 quarts
is plenty for this sized engine.
at oil change time and the reading on the dipstick after sitting
overnight should be at the LOW mark. Reason is pan is deeper
but there has to be room for the oil returning from the turbos or
they wont drain properly and could start smoking issues. 5 quarts
is plenty for this sized engine.
Are some of you guys seriously running 6 to 6.5 quarts of oil with the APS TT kit?
I've always used five and my tuner and shop says it should only go to the "low" mark.
I'm starting to get inconsistent readings between cold and warmed-down readings, also seems to be inconsistent when the ambient temperature changes. Sometimes I flip out thinking I'm lower than I should be, then I check at a different time and it seems to be pretty fine.
Those of you guys using 6 quarts of oil or so, do you have any smoking issues?
Hey westlutes you are in SoCal right? Can I ask who did your build/tune? Thanks
I've always used five and my tuner and shop says it should only go to the "low" mark.
I'm starting to get inconsistent readings between cold and warmed-down readings, also seems to be inconsistent when the ambient temperature changes. Sometimes I flip out thinking I'm lower than I should be, then I check at a different time and it seems to be pretty fine.
Those of you guys using 6 quarts of oil or so, do you have any smoking issues?
Hey westlutes you are in SoCal right? Can I ask who did your build/tune? Thanks
The Stillen oil cooler holds almost a whole additional quart.
My oil is right at the halfway mark & I have no smoking issues. I do have custom drain lines I made though.
Yes I'm in Huntington Beach. I had my motor & heads machined by John Edwards in Costa Mesa. He did the balancing & most of the assembly. I did all of the installation.
Sam at GTM did the tuning.
Wes
Is it easy to get those custom drain lines made?
Also you have an oil cooler, I also have an oil cooler, does having a cooler cause you to consume oil faster?
My motor is still during break-in. The first 500 miles fine, the second 500 miles fine, I just hit the 3rd 500 mile mark (1500 miles total) and was checking my oil. It was HALFWAY between the LOW mark and the bottom of the dipstick, so I put half a quart in and it now reads just around the LOW mark.
Now I'm freaking out wondering if my motor is having oil consumption issues.
Still using 10W-30 for my break-in. Was told 500 more miles then get an oil change and I can start boosting (I think new tune also).
Any opinions?
Also you have an oil cooler, I also have an oil cooler, does having a cooler cause you to consume oil faster?
My motor is still during break-in. The first 500 miles fine, the second 500 miles fine, I just hit the 3rd 500 mile mark (1500 miles total) and was checking my oil. It was HALFWAY between the LOW mark and the bottom of the dipstick, so I put half a quart in and it now reads just around the LOW mark.
Now I'm freaking out wondering if my motor is having oil consumption issues.
Still using 10W-30 for my break-in. Was told 500 more miles then get an oil change and I can start boosting (I think new tune also).
Any opinions?
Yeah, I purchased 45 deg AN fittings & some oil resistant hose. Now it visibly looks like a better angle of flow.
No, the oil cooler does not make the motor consume more oil. It just holds an additional quart.
After switching over to 15w-50 it seems like the oil stays at the same level.
I empty my little Husky catch can once a week(1-2 tablespoons of oil)
I would suggest getting a tune for your custom setup.
No, the oil cooler does not make the motor consume more oil. It just holds an additional quart.
After switching over to 15w-50 it seems like the oil stays at the same level.
I empty my little Husky catch can once a week(1-2 tablespoons of oil)
I would suggest getting a tune for your custom setup.
I planned on using Mobil 1 0W-40, since that is what I always used before break-in and seemed to give me solid results.
You like the 15W-50 better? What advantage does the increased weight have?
Thanks
You like the 15W-50 better? What advantage does the increased weight have?
Thanks
I would ask your engine builder if you are concerned. If the car has not been tuned yet, I would defintely not drive the car hard.
I remember that my new built motor did use some oil for the first 6K miles before I switched to synthetic. The heavier weights offer more protection. If you live in a hot climate, 15W-50 is recommended by many. Mild climates 10W-40 is ok. 10W-30 is too thin weight for an VQ35 FI motor.
I have an APS-TT and I run with the oil level at the halfway mark between "H" and "L". Its just easier to read that way in my opinion.
There is a lot of old history you can dig up going back to the original "APS Peter" recommendation to run the APS kits at the "L" mark. I'm not sure I understand it all or even believe it all. It was a hot topic when my kit was installed 2.5 years ago and I've never had a problem running the oil level higher than the "L" mark.
When you look at the oil return lines, properly installed, its hard to understand how a slight difference in oil level while the engine is running would make the difference between "smoking" vs. "not smoking" on deceleration. I know plenty of APS-TT owners have posted they run at the halfway mark or even at the "H" with no problems, including me.
As noted before, best time to get a good oil level reading is after the car has sat overnight and allowed to drain all the oil into the lower oil pan. If you are concerned check it every morning for a while, or at least once a week at a minimum.
Hope that helps and enjoy the car.
I remember that my new built motor did use some oil for the first 6K miles before I switched to synthetic. The heavier weights offer more protection. If you live in a hot climate, 15W-50 is recommended by many. Mild climates 10W-40 is ok. 10W-30 is too thin weight for an VQ35 FI motor.
I have an APS-TT and I run with the oil level at the halfway mark between "H" and "L". Its just easier to read that way in my opinion.
There is a lot of old history you can dig up going back to the original "APS Peter" recommendation to run the APS kits at the "L" mark. I'm not sure I understand it all or even believe it all. It was a hot topic when my kit was installed 2.5 years ago and I've never had a problem running the oil level higher than the "L" mark.
When you look at the oil return lines, properly installed, its hard to understand how a slight difference in oil level while the engine is running would make the difference between "smoking" vs. "not smoking" on deceleration. I know plenty of APS-TT owners have posted they run at the halfway mark or even at the "H" with no problems, including me.
As noted before, best time to get a good oil level reading is after the car has sat overnight and allowed to drain all the oil into the lower oil pan. If you are concerned check it every morning for a while, or at least once a week at a minimum.
Hope that helps and enjoy the car.
Yeah I've NEVER had a smoking issue. Today is thanksgiving and 500 more miles I'll be back for my 3rd oil change, then we're gonna tune and be boost happy. 
To this date I have no hit boost once, have not gone past 4,000RPMs, and have not even gone past half throttle (to keep boost away). I think I'm doing a good job . . .

To this date I have no hit boost once, have not gone past 4,000RPMs, and have not even gone past half throttle (to keep boost away). I think I'm doing a good job . . .
Last edited by Dynasty.Zero; Nov 27, 2008 at 02:15 PM.
Welcome to the APS "no smoking" club. Now go put some oil in that car, get it tuned and beat the crap out of your car like the rest of us have been doing for years 
Have fun and be safe.

Have fun and be safe.
Last edited by ToastZ; Nov 27, 2008 at 02:44 PM.
I would ask your engine builder if you are concerned. If the car has not been tuned yet, I would defintely not drive the car hard.
I remember that my new built motor did use some oil for the first 6K miles before I switched to synthetic. The heavier weights offer more protection. If you live in a hot climate, 15W-50 is recommended by many. Mild climates 10W-40 is ok. 10W-30 is too thin weight for an VQ35 FI motor.
I have an APS-TT and I run with the oil level at the halfway mark between "H" and "L". Its just easier to read that way in my opinion.
There is a lot of old history you can dig up going back to the original "APS Peter" recommendation to run the APS kits at the "L" mark. I'm not sure I understand it all or even believe it all. It was a hot topic when my kit was installed 2.5 years ago and I've never had a problem running the oil level higher than the "L" mark.
When you look at the oil return lines, properly installed, its hard to understand how a slight difference in oil level while the engine is running would make the difference between "smoking" vs. "not smoking" on deceleration. I know plenty of APS-TT owners have posted they run at the halfway mark or even at the "H" with no problems, including me.
As noted before, best time to get a good oil level reading is after the car has sat overnight and allowed to drain all the oil into the lower oil pan. If you are concerned check it every morning for a while, or at least once a week at a minimum.
Hope that helps and enjoy the car.
I remember that my new built motor did use some oil for the first 6K miles before I switched to synthetic. The heavier weights offer more protection. If you live in a hot climate, 15W-50 is recommended by many. Mild climates 10W-40 is ok. 10W-30 is too thin weight for an VQ35 FI motor.
I have an APS-TT and I run with the oil level at the halfway mark between "H" and "L". Its just easier to read that way in my opinion.
There is a lot of old history you can dig up going back to the original "APS Peter" recommendation to run the APS kits at the "L" mark. I'm not sure I understand it all or even believe it all. It was a hot topic when my kit was installed 2.5 years ago and I've never had a problem running the oil level higher than the "L" mark.
When you look at the oil return lines, properly installed, its hard to understand how a slight difference in oil level while the engine is running would make the difference between "smoking" vs. "not smoking" on deceleration. I know plenty of APS-TT owners have posted they run at the halfway mark or even at the "H" with no problems, including me.
As noted before, best time to get a good oil level reading is after the car has sat overnight and allowed to drain all the oil into the lower oil pan. If you are concerned check it every morning for a while, or at least once a week at a minimum.
Hope that helps and enjoy the car.


