GTM 3.8 stroker kit break in. with JWT TT
hi guys
a friend of mine started a mean project .
GTM 3.8 liter stroke engine with JWT 750 Twin turbo kit.
he is in the process now of building the car and he had couple of questions.
1) what is the best practice of breaking in the engine, ( with turbos or without turbos better )
2) A/F guige from inovate comes with one sensor, where would be the best place to place it to have the better reading for the whole engine m monitoring.
thanks in advance
a friend of mine started a mean project .
GTM 3.8 liter stroke engine with JWT 750 Twin turbo kit.
he is in the process now of building the car and he had couple of questions.
1) what is the best practice of breaking in the engine, ( with turbos or without turbos better )
2) A/F guige from inovate comes with one sensor, where would be the best place to place it to have the better reading for the whole engine m monitoring.
thanks in advance
Don't go over 4-5k rpm for the first 10,000 miles (not going to happen) run dino oil for the first 1k miles do an oil change, run another 2-3k with dino oil and then run whatever after that. Put the wideband sensor before the cats if there are any.
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1. Break-in.... IMO start the motor on conventional oil.... heat cycle a few times, maybe 25 miles? Then change the oil using conventional oil, put another 300 miles (or so) city driving, with multiple heat cycles, on it, change the oil again... using whatever toots your horn.. then begin the fun.
2. Yes put the sensor before the cats. Ultimately, it is best to have (2) a/f sensors for whole engine monitoring.
2. Yes put the sensor before the cats. Ultimately, it is best to have (2) a/f sensors for whole engine monitoring.
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Why must you use dino oil (what the hell is that anyway if not conventional?) then switch to Synthetic? I used to build bike engines and we started out with Synthetic from the first start up with no problems.
Royal purple has a synthetic break in oil but I wouldn't use it on these engines. It was designed for engines using flat tappet cams, extra additives that we don't want without those type of cams. I say around 3000 miles without going over 3K Do one oil change after 1000 miles and then another at 3000 at which point switch to synthetic if your going to.
For the A/F haltech has a dual wideband set-up, I'd say get that unless he has already bought the innovative. If he has, then before the cat after the turbo, both banks should be pretty close so it doesn't matter which side.
For the A/F haltech has a dual wideband set-up, I'd say get that unless he has already bought the innovative. If he has, then before the cat after the turbo, both banks should be pretty close so it doesn't matter which side.
i dont like how they call them 700BB and 500BB sport and stuff like that.
i realy wana know what is JWT using for the kit
allso APS EXTREME, what are the turbos ???
whats wrong if they tell us what are the turbos !!!

GTM is the best
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are the BB turbos the same GT28RS turbos ??
i dont like how they call them 700BB and 500BB sport and stuff like that.
i realy wana know what is JWT using for the kit
allso APS EXTREME, what are the turbos ???
whats wrong if they tell us what are the turbos !!!
GTM is the best
i dont like how they call them 700BB and 500BB sport and stuff like that.
i realy wana know what is JWT using for the kit
allso APS EXTREME, what are the turbos ???
whats wrong if they tell us what are the turbos !!!

GTM is the best
JWT does it that way to make it easy to pick what turbo you need. 700BB gives you around 700hp and the 850 gives you around 850hp +
The 850BB is around the same as the Greddy 20G and the APS extreme...hope that helps
I've used the mototune method on a couple engines I've built and it's always worked perfect. If your engine is built correctly there really should be hardly any break in required. I do however start with conventional oil for the first 1000 miles or so.
thanks, but are u sure its a real GT30 ? aps extreme and JWT 850BB are running a GT30 center section and the compressor housing still GT28, correct me if im wrong, cuz this setup still will not flow like a real GT30
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Thats correct....The body is not a true GT30 but the internals are...
ask 100 people how to break in a motor you'll probably get 100 different answers.
Start with organic cheapo oil. get a few heat cycles in it. try not to hold a constant rpm, but keep the rpms moving up and down. Change oil and filter (you can go to synth or organic at this point), get a few more heat cycles. Best to change again to inspect oil for debris......then start pushing it more and more.
You DO NOT want to wait 10000 miles to find out you have a problem (even though you wouldn't make it that far anyway). Think about it 10,000 miles....thats a year of driving (more if the car is just a toy)
Start with organic cheapo oil. get a few heat cycles in it. try not to hold a constant rpm, but keep the rpms moving up and down. Change oil and filter (you can go to synth or organic at this point), get a few more heat cycles. Best to change again to inspect oil for debris......then start pushing it more and more.
You DO NOT want to wait 10000 miles to find out you have a problem (even though you wouldn't make it that far anyway). Think about it 10,000 miles....thats a year of driving (more if the car is just a toy)






