Well, I've done lots of research on this and havent found this particular case.

Basically I've had my car Turboed for one month and a few weeks. It drives great, no problems. One of the after market coolant hoses I got with the kit cracked and the coolant leaked out, so the car over heated. We changed out the part and no there are no more misfires and the car starts up again, but the coolant isn't getting to the engine.

Before you tell me there is air, let me explain everything first. We've leaked the air out. Changed the thermostat and next is checking the water pump and head gasket.

What's happening is, when you open the valve to bleed out the air, there is no coolant running through that hose at all. Not really sure if there is debri in the cooling system or what. It doesn't seem like it's air doing it though. The A/C blows no Heat what-so-ever.(I've seen this before)

The cooling system is blocked up by something. Any more ideas of what we should do? We've been working on this for a few days and I have to use my mommy's car, how embarassing. Time to get a beater!!!

If anybody has experienced this exact situation or know what that is, please let me know ASAP. If you need anymore info, please feel free to ask away!!!

 

Did you elevate the front of the car when you attempted the bleed? You may have a bubble that is causing back pressure and not allowing the system to flow. Also note that the car needs to hit a certain temp before the coolant flows out of the motor into the radiator.

 

Well, there hasnt been any coolant flow for like 4 or 5 days. I know he has bled it and that the car has reach the H everytime it's started up and then driven. I'll check back about the elevation part, but if all of that has been done, then what else could it be. I just know that you can see that's it bone dry in the one hose where you bleed it from.

Also, I know sometimes you have to bleed the system multiple times, but even if that weren't the case anymore, what else would it be?

 

When i had to bleed mine there was nothing really flowing thru the bleed valve either.What you need to do is have a friend rev the motor to about 2000rpm while you slowly open the bleed valve and do this multiple times and then all the air will be gone.

 

be very careful you don't pop the cap off while the engine is running. severe burns and 4 hours of cleanup will ensue.

 

You have air in the system....its not that easy to get the air out.....there is a kit you can buy to help bleed the syatem.

Do a search...tons of members have run into this problem before.

 

I found a way to make it a lot easier. I got one of these : http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?br...ocation_id=183

With this I just pump up the system, open the bleeder until I get water. No worries about getting scalded and no mess AND helps finding leaks. Everybody should have one of these.

 

It does take a while to get all the air out of the system. I usually do the bleeder 5-6 times before I get most the air out of the system.

 

try this out works for me everytime!!!!

run till hot with heater on full blast (blowing cold)

turn off car.

open bleeder valve. just a little and you will hear the pressure being released. (when I had a lot of air in the system it would let all the pressure out but still no water for like 4-5 times)

repeat this process honestly another 30 times. I did it for like 4hrs till it was driveable and then drove around till it slowly crept up and pulled over burped it for the rest of the night.

after that it ran like it should...

I dont think you needed a thermostat either......

 

Does anyone else recommend using one of these? Im betting that it will make this whole process at **** load quicker.

 

do a visual check for headgasket. i was getting similar problems. i tried everything bled system, gutted t-stat, and then just slipped a mirror between and leaking coolant.

 

It makes it easier for me. I've found that when using this I can tell when there are bubbles in the system, how big and when they're gone. I'll explain, when pumping up the system if there are air bubbles present it takes quite a bit more pumping to build pressure than when purged.

I just top up the radiator, pump it up to 17 -18 psi then bleed it quite a bit, then vent the cap re-fill radiator and repeat. Starting the motor for a minute or two can help. Once it's purged it only takes 3 or 4 pumps to build pressure and I'm good for weeks of daily driving.

 

That pump idea sounds interesting. I burnt the shiat out of myself using the rear bleeder valve thing. My process was to fill radiator run till hot and use bleed valve. It will dump loads of steam (vapor) but I am doing a new bleeding system when I put the car back together to make this process safer and easier. I'll do a DIY thread on it when I'm done.

 

I thought once you purge the system well that you dont have to do it that often. It should stay purged as long as you dont open the radiator. Im saying that if you need to purge the system every couple of weeks that there might be a problem somewhere.

 

My theory on frequent bleeding is this, being that my turbos are water cooled when I shut the engine off all coolant circulation stops. The remaining heat in the turbos is generating some steam and venting into the expansion tank. after dozens of heating cooling cycles it just forms a big bubble. It becomes a problem when I don't check the expansion/overflow tank and the level drops to the point that when it cools off and tries to pull coolant back in only sucks in air.

 

Thanks for the reaspones guys!!!

Basically, heres the new dealio. The heater now works, but it's only working during driving or when you rev up the motor. I know there was someone else in the past with this problem, but I cant find his thread. He stated that heat wouldnt kick in unless the engine was at around 2000 rpms minimum.

My guy burped the system a ton of times a few nights ago til like 12 am and finally got the air out. Now we are back to square one, since it hasnt been blowing heat at idle. But it's still drivable since I was driving with it like that for a month and a half. Lmk what I can do about that if possible. Thanks!!

 

From my experience when the heat blows cold at idle there's still a bubble.

 

Hmm, I was thinking that. But won't the car still over heat with air in there? I drove my car for over a month with the heater like that before.

 

There's likely enough coolant to keep heat controlled for a while but eventually the water pump will cavitate and you'll overheat, If you listen close when at idle in that condition you may hear a noise from under the hood that you think is just belt noise, it's actually the water pump cavitating.

 

So basically your saying I'll probably need a new water pump?