STUMPED (turbo start up)
02-02-2009, 06:35 PM
#1
STUMPED (turbo start up)
PROBLEM SOLVED, coulper not all the way on at TB (stupid).
Well, today is the day I turned the key after a month fabricating:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...brication.html
First try, the car turns on as it would stock. I noticed that something is not right, and after about 30 seconds of idling I turn it off. I noticed that the service engine light cam on, so I got the code reader and got the codes:
P0102
P0113
P0102 P
P0113 P
So I do a quick search here, only to find out tat it's all MAF sensor related. I get back out and check the MAF out only to find that I never fully connected the senor plug to the MAF. Stupid, I know.
So I disconect the battery, step on the brake bla bla bla to reset the ECU. Get back in the car and attemp startup again. The car starts, revs up to about 2000rpm, stumbles down to about 500rpm and then dies.
I went over everything, nothing was really done under the hood ecept the MAF/intake piping. Under the car I had the oil pressure sensor diconected and another just above it, they are reconected. O2 sensor came out but are back in and connected, oil change was also done at this time. Nothing else was messed with. NO CODES THIS TIME, probably because it's not running long enough to pick any up.
Stock fuel pump, stock injectors, stock ECU, nothing really changed, just exhaust piping and intake piping.
The strange thing is that it was running without the MAF connected.
Help is gratly apreciated.
EDIT:
Catalytic converters are out.
Well, today is the day I turned the key after a month fabricating:
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...brication.html
First try, the car turns on as it would stock. I noticed that something is not right, and after about 30 seconds of idling I turn it off. I noticed that the service engine light cam on, so I got the code reader and got the codes:
P0102
P0113
P0102 P
P0113 P
So I do a quick search here, only to find out tat it's all MAF sensor related. I get back out and check the MAF out only to find that I never fully connected the senor plug to the MAF. Stupid, I know.
So I disconect the battery, step on the brake bla bla bla to reset the ECU. Get back in the car and attemp startup again. The car starts, revs up to about 2000rpm, stumbles down to about 500rpm and then dies.
I went over everything, nothing was really done under the hood ecept the MAF/intake piping. Under the car I had the oil pressure sensor diconected and another just above it, they are reconected. O2 sensor came out but are back in and connected, oil change was also done at this time. Nothing else was messed with. NO CODES THIS TIME, probably because it's not running long enough to pick any up.
Stock fuel pump, stock injectors, stock ECU, nothing really changed, just exhaust piping and intake piping.
The strange thing is that it was running without the MAF connected.
Help is gratly apreciated.
EDIT:
Catalytic converters are out.
Last edited by BoostedProbe; 02-02-2009 at 07:41 PM.
02-02-2009, 06:52 PM
#2
P0102 Mass air flow sensor circuit low input
An excessively low voltage from the sensor is
sent to ECM.
Harness or connectors
(The sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
Intake air leaks
Mass air flow sensor
P0113 Intake air temperature sensor
Intake air temperature
sensor circuit
high input
An excessively high voltage from the sensor is
sent to ECM.
What is a VAF?
An excessively low voltage from the sensor is
sent to ECM.
Harness or connectors
(The sensor circuit is open or shorted.)
Intake air leaks
Mass air flow sensor
P0113 Intake air temperature sensor
Intake air temperature
sensor circuit
high input
An excessively high voltage from the sensor is
sent to ECM.
What is a VAF?
02-02-2009, 06:58 PM
#5
New Member
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 512
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
VAF is a Vane air flow sensor, it's a door that opens with intake air movement, more air, more door opens. It's on a potentiometer so more door open more voltage so the comp knows. I think he means MAF and just made a mistake.
02-02-2009, 07:35 PM
#10
Booooosstt!!
iTrader: (58)
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Dallas/NewYork/Michigan/Korea
Posts: 5,311
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Congrat! Sasha,
but why you didn't change injector/etc. Am i missing something?
Also PIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! or VID!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
-JLee
but why you didn't change injector/etc. Am i missing something?
Also PIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! or VID!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
-JLee
02-02-2009, 07:38 PM
#11
I will try to get a couple of pics tommorow, vid will be up on dyno day.
02-03-2009, 06:11 AM
#12
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Texas, Arizona,Cayman Island
Posts: 5,256
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is the reason here. If I had installed the injectors, pump, Haltech ect... and had a problem, where do I start looking. It is best to brake it down, make sure one stage is done and then move to the next. Now I know that everything is good and running. If this changes after the Haltech/injector install I know that it's either Haltech or injecotors.
I will try to get a couple of pics tommorow, vid will be up on dyno day.
I will try to get a couple of pics tommorow, vid will be up on dyno day.
HINT HINT !!!
02-03-2009, 03:29 PM
#14
I believe the only way your car will stop bogging down like that is if you drive it...... Its gotta relearn... Its happened to me several times in the past when I reset the ecu where it bogged down, i would just rev the rpms up during deceleration to keep it from bogging down for a few days and eventually it would run normally....
02-03-2009, 04:56 PM
#15
I believe the only way your car will stop bogging down like that is if you drive it...... Its gotta relearn... Its happened to me several times in the past when I reset the ecu where it bogged down, i would just rev the rpms up during deceleration to keep it from bogging down for a few days and eventually it would run normally....
