My Engine and procharger issues
09-03-2003, 11:33 PM
#21
i'll cast one more vote for a blown head gasket, from your descriptions
it cost me almost 800 labor to get cams installed, and cams are suppose to be ~13 hr job.
but a blown headgasket is better than your piston rings going out. good luck bro.
ps. i also agree that the install was botched
it cost me almost 800 labor to get cams installed, and cams are suppose to be ~13 hr job.
but a blown headgasket is better than your piston rings going out. good luck bro.
ps. i also agree that the install was botched
09-04-2003, 01:01 AM
#22
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I agree, it definitely sounds like a blown head gasket. I would get it towed to whomever you get to work on it. I would not even start the engine because there is a good chance that it could hydraulic on you which is not a good thing. Another thing that you may want to consider is that since you are replacing one head gasket, you may want to do both and replace them with a good set and some head studs.
09-04-2003, 06:00 AM
#25
I'm about to tow it to my friends shop, he builds race cars, stock cars, and says he could figure it out, he's sure. He doesn't think anything got blown, but again isn't 100% sure until he see's it in person, so the tow truck is on it's way.
Oh, and I called my installer, they told me to get a compression test.
It's weird, the vibration is only when I start it up and idle, and when I put it in first gear and up to like 1000rpm or about, I'd have to double check on this.
Oh, and I called my installer, they told me to get a compression test.
It's weird, the vibration is only when I start it up and idle, and when I put it in first gear and up to like 1000rpm or about, I'd have to double check on this.
09-04-2003, 06:13 AM
#26
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How do the installers know how to set the fuel? Do you SC Z owners have to get it dyno'd or is the fuel unit preset (just install and drive)? Just curious because maybe the Z ran lean due to the fuel unit (or whatever the thing is called) was not set properly and under boost the Z ran lean.
09-04-2003, 06:47 AM
#29
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My suggestion is to take it to the installer only, and put him on the hook, if you take it to someone else he will try to relieve himself of responsibility since you r friend looked at it.
Call ATI and let them know and take it to the installer, too much money at stake.
Call ATI and let them know and take it to the installer, too much money at stake.
09-04-2003, 06:53 AM
#31
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It is tough, but try to get him involved and acknowledge that you will take it to your friend and be involved in anything your friend finds.
That is as a minimum, the best would be for the installer to take care of the towing.
That is as a minimum, the best would be for the installer to take care of the towing.
09-04-2003, 07:01 AM
#32
I just spoke with them again, doesn't sound like they can give me any advice until we can give them compression numbers. I told them maybe I will tow it to them.
I'm just pissed because I really haven't pushed the car much yet at all, I drove it over 300 miles home, cruised and then around town yesterday and on the highway last night and this **** happens. Still waiting on the tow truck, should be here within 30 mins, so when I find out what my #'s are, we will be able to rule things out. Wish me luck
I'm just pissed because I really haven't pushed the car much yet at all, I drove it over 300 miles home, cruised and then around town yesterday and on the highway last night and this **** happens. Still waiting on the tow truck, should be here within 30 mins, so when I find out what my #'s are, we will be able to rule things out. Wish me luck
09-04-2003, 07:15 AM
#33
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Sorry to hear about this ravaz. Hopefully it will be resolved with minimum time and money.
Did you have any gauges installed..boost, fuel pres, EGT, A/F...anything that may have told you anything??
Did you have any gauges installed..boost, fuel pres, EGT, A/F...anything that may have told you anything??
09-04-2003, 07:20 AM
#34
Have an EGT gauge installed. At all times, my numbers were between 550 and 675 I'd say, never above that, even 300 miles driving home. Everytime I was about to shut the car off, I'd hit the memory button and see what it topped out at, and never was more then 675.
09-04-2003, 07:21 AM
#35
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Ravaz, One thing you could easily do to tell for sure if there is a problem in the engine is to do a compression check. I bought a cheap(<$10) compression test kit from Harbor Freight. You should be able to pick one up from most auto parts stores if you don't have one. To do the compression check, you pull one spark plug out and thread the hose for the gauge into the spark plug hole. Look at the spark plug as you pull it out. A white or light brown color on the plug will indicate water in the cylinder. If the electrode is burnt off, you have signs of detonation. Then disconnect the crank angle sensor. This is to keep the ignition from firing. It will trip a code(MIL), so you will need to clear the code when you are done. Crank it 3 times for 2-3 seconds before looking at the gauge to get a reading. Recode your compression numbers. I don't have a service manual yet, but I would expect the compression to be somewhere between 150 and 170 psi. If you are seeing 100 or less, there is a big problem. Take the compression tester off, put the plug back in and do the rest of the cylinders.
If it is bad, I agree with the previous comment to have it removed and take it back to the dealer under warranty. This may be the easiest option for you in terms of time and cost. If you do this, act very dumb. 'I don't know what happened, I was just driving in traffic and it started feeling sluggish...then it just started smoking.' Last, make sure you clear the memory in the ECU before you take it in(it data logs).
If it is bad, I agree with the previous comment to have it removed and take it back to the dealer under warranty. This may be the easiest option for you in terms of time and cost. If you do this, act very dumb. 'I don't know what happened, I was just driving in traffic and it started feeling sluggish...then it just started smoking.' Last, make sure you clear the memory in the ECU before you take it in(it data logs).
09-04-2003, 09:10 AM
#37
OK, just got back from my mechanic. We did a compression and leak down test. Cyl 6, on the rear of the engine on the drivers side. Took the spark plugs out, cyl 6 plug is soaked in oil big time, did a compression test, not good (don't have the numbers infront of me I'm at my girls work now), and did a leak down test. Seems that we blew a hole in the piston, which was caused by me running lean. Contacted the installer, waiting on the owners response and will see what sort of solution we can come to.
That is all for now!
Bill
That is all for now!
Bill
09-04-2003, 09:19 AM
#38
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Im sorry to hear that... Best thing to do is put it back to stock and take it to the dealer so they can warranty the problem. Boost is deadly even at 5-7psi if not tune correctly... Did your installer tune your car? Just make sure if you do put it back to stock to do it right because missing bolts or stuff will only make it supicious that you installed something and that's what caused the problem... I guess it was blue smoke like you indicated first?
