FINALLY.......i am tuned
So i dropped my car off this morning at Motorsport Dynamics......i went in with about 300 rwhp(due to running seriously rich)......and i came out with a solid 340rwhp proven on the dyno.....i blew an intercooler hose clamp, or i would have hit 350........i'm supposed to take it back when its fixed and they'll finish up the last slider's adjustment, if it needs any at all
I gotta tell ya......if you have a Z that needs tuning in Norcal, this guy is the shizzle......this guy Henry is so educational to listen to that even my girlfriend was in stitches while he explained what they had been doing with my car, and how the FMU works, and it's strengths and weaknesses, etc.........i left there realizing that i had taken my car to the right guy
Here's a pic of my FMU final settings for the curious........but don't use these on your car!!!!....they only work on mine:
I gotta tell ya......if you have a Z that needs tuning in Norcal, this guy is the shizzle......this guy Henry is so educational to listen to that even my girlfriend was in stitches while he explained what they had been doing with my car, and how the FMU works, and it's strengths and weaknesses, etc.........i left there realizing that i had taken my car to the right guy
Here's a pic of my FMU final settings for the curious........but don't use these on your car!!!!....they only work on mine:
I know that parallax view looks like the scale setting is on 15, but it's actually on 13.......and of course, when i got home tonight i broke out the tools and a flashlight and fixed that intercooler hose clamp already.........i can't wait to go back to that place.......i learned soooooo much just talking to this guy for half an hour!!!!.....no one will ever tune my cars except Henry and Ed at Motorsport Dynamics
Don't push your boost until it's finished being tuned. I can't understand why you'd blow an intercooler hose. You might want to look at all of your hoses and verify that they are all supertight before you take it back in there. Otherwise they'll be tuning a leaking system.
Yes lights should definitely come on when you are on boost. If no lights come on when you are on boost then you have a serious problem. If you're not on boost you won't get any lights. I've posted before, maybe you missed it, but there's an easy way to test your FMU. Disconnect the rubber hose that has clamps on it from your plenum. Blow into that hose. Have someone watching your FMU as you blow into it. You should be able to blow into it hard enought to get at least the third light to light up. If you hear any air leaking you need to isolate the leak. If not lights light up you might have a crimped boost sense line or power problems on your ECU. Also as the lights light up you should hear your Aux fuel pump kick in. If any of these things don't occur, you need to fix the problem before you run your engine again.
Dan......i couldn't see any lights come on as i drove around........but under boost on the dyno, the lights came on for my tuner
This FMU is tricky to tune........and if your car's totally heated up, you might not see boost until 4K in some cases.
My tuner advised me to get new fuel management as soon as it's available, which might not be for a while.......there are some downsides to this FMU due to it's design.
each slider represents a range of boost, although there is only one fuel setting possible for each slider.......as such, it will be rich when boost actuates a given slider, but it will have leaned out when it gets to the end of that range.......so a linear boost/fuel graph is impossible.
another interesting thing about this FMU is that it tries to smooth the transition between sliders by momentarily flickering back and forth between the two.
after all was said and done, my air/fuel was set in the range of 11:1-12.5:1, depending on where the FMU is looking at that particular time.
This FMU is tricky to tune........and if your car's totally heated up, you might not see boost until 4K in some cases.
My tuner advised me to get new fuel management as soon as it's available, which might not be for a while.......there are some downsides to this FMU due to it's design.
each slider represents a range of boost, although there is only one fuel setting possible for each slider.......as such, it will be rich when boost actuates a given slider, but it will have leaned out when it gets to the end of that range.......so a linear boost/fuel graph is impossible.
another interesting thing about this FMU is that it tries to smooth the transition between sliders by momentarily flickering back and forth between the two.
after all was said and done, my air/fuel was set in the range of 11:1-12.5:1, depending on where the FMU is looking at that particular time.
Last edited by elektrik_juggernaut; Sep 10, 2003 at 08:12 AM.
The lights better come on with you FMU!
Jesse, it is easy to blow a hose. I did on mine as well. I am still looking to see which one it is. For some reason I am having a hard time diagnosing which pipe/clamp it is.
Congrats EJ on getting tuned. By the way, which pipe did you blow?
Jesse, it is easy to blow a hose. I did on mine as well. I am still looking to see which one it is. For some reason I am having a hard time diagnosing which pipe/clamp it is.
Congrats EJ on getting tuned. By the way, which pipe did you blow?
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I don't care if your car is overheating. If you're running your engine at WOT above 2500 RPM you should see lights come on. Now yes, just cruising around and not opening her up you're engine isn't seeing boost because the throttle plate isn't allowing enough air to go pass through to overcome intake vacuum.
Bottom line, if you're on boost, your FMU better know it and respond by lighting up the appropriate slider LED.
About the IC hoses, about the only way my IC hoses are going to blow off is if I have like 25 PSI running through this sucker. My clamps are extremely tight, because the last thing I need is to blow an IC hose on the freeway and suddenly my car is sucking unfiltered air in through the IC pipe.
to diagnose your IC hose disconnect the bypass valve vacuum hose and SC cog belt. Let your car idle, don't rev it. Then get a can of ether or starting fluid and spray around all of your IC connections while your car is idling. If there's a change in idle tighten that clamp up.
Bottom line, if you're on boost, your FMU better know it and respond by lighting up the appropriate slider LED.
About the IC hoses, about the only way my IC hoses are going to blow off is if I have like 25 PSI running through this sucker. My clamps are extremely tight, because the last thing I need is to blow an IC hose on the freeway and suddenly my car is sucking unfiltered air in through the IC pipe.
to diagnose your IC hose disconnect the bypass valve vacuum hose and SC cog belt. Let your car idle, don't rev it. Then get a can of ether or starting fluid and spray around all of your IC connections while your car is idling. If there's a change in idle tighten that clamp up.
Last edited by jesseenglish; Sep 10, 2003 at 09:22 AM.
EJ: My FMU looks almost exactly like yours. Mine is set at 13 like yours and the sliders are very close to where yours are.
I have been up to 130 on a straight nearly empty 3 lane highway in daylight.
I have been up to 130 on a straight nearly empty 3 lane highway in daylight.
Right on Bonz......it's gotten so i can tell by sound when boost is going on......i think the sound i hear is belt lash on the cogs when the belts are working harder than usual.........do you have that too?.......i love that sound
here's my AF readings ravaz.....i hope they help.......but they're a little screwy because of that intercooler hose clamp
here's my AF readings ravaz.....i hope they help.......but they're a little screwy because of that intercooler hose clamp
I am in the process of setting up this efi controller. Instead of using a fmu, this efi controls an extra set of injectors to supply fuel to the motor under boost. I has a fully programable range and controls up to 5 injectors. I'm not sure if someone could get it working on a Z, I'm installing this in my eclipse. My Z is bone stock and its probably going to be like that for a while. Check out the eic and its programing abilities at http://www.034efi.com
I just picked up my car yesterday from Altered Atmosphere. It is running amazing, even though i told them to tune on the rich side since i run in events almost weekly. (the muffler has like twice the carbon in it than it used to last week) But it still pulled a nice 357rwhp with that rich of a tune. My sliders are similar to the picture but my 3-4 are closer together. Ill have to take a pic of it.
And i went to like 150mph with it today in no time.
And i went to like 150mph with it today in no time.



