You may not feel it was worth it now.. But after dumping a few more $$k into it youll feel even worse only hitting maybe 380whp then youll say to yourself why didnt I buy a Greddy kit etc.. Just trust me Vinny... Go to a DJ which is prob near you being in NY..

 

take it to a dynojet, then take it to the strip and see what you can trap, if still not happy go with a 3" inch single exhaust and test pipes, retune. repeat step one and two.

 

So 3.5 is the way to go?

 

Thanks bro, I will try a DJ.

I have a 3" inch single Apexi in the garage, I really like the Dual Exhaust coming out the back. Is there a good Dual can exhaust for a turbo setup that is just as good in performance as a single?

 

stay with the 3.5 unless you get near 500. I had the 3.3 in at low 400's and was not happy with it.... had to up the boost and then it was great. the limited slip would be nice though if you don't have it currently

 

Save your money on other mods for this kit and start saving for your TT upgrade. If you need to feel better about your current setup, just go find a nice porche boxter or cayman and blow its doors off... you will instantly feel better about your current setup.

 

I have a turbonetics setup but instead of the turbonetics turbo I have a GT35R. At first I had my car tuned at performance motor sports and I also got low number. I was so disappointed, seeing all of these people making 380 to 400 on the kits with the turbonetics turbo. They told me the tune was so safe I could beat on my car all day and nothing would happen. After the tune my afr's were so low, it hit 8.8 at lower rpm and the highest they ot were 11.3( I have a Innovate Wide band in the car) After I left the shop and i drove the car I noticed that the car would die out at 5000 rpm. I called the shop and the tuner told me the reason for the car dying out is that my exhaust didn't create enough back pressure, which I pretty much new was not good for turbo cars.

So one day I stopped by Vinny Ten Racing with a friend and I told Vinny what my car was doing with the car dying out at 5000 rpm. So he was very nicae an threw my car on the dyno and showed me that I made 328hp and my afr were so rich I was loosing hp. I then had Vinny remove my Utec and install a split second box and he re tuned the car. The dyno and the car dosent lie. I made 382hp and 400tq. I was so happy. The car runs so much smoother, doesnt stink anymore and is a blast.

the dyno sheets below were both done at Vinny Ten's shop and the lower numbers were before he did anything(what I put down at the other shop) and the new numbers. The dyno sheets tell the whole story.

I am in no way talking **** about any shops. I don't need to speak about the work because the work speaks for itself. This was my experience at both shops. Interpret it how you wish.



Original Tune After Tunning at performance



Toque Differences


HP Differences


The dyno programs lowest shown afr is 10, so if it is below 10 it would just show 10.

 

/\ Edit:

Did the first shop put the right correction on the Temp Compensation Table in Utec? With speed density, this should be also tuned. I'm guessing that you were fine in the dyno and when the temp changes the temp compensation wasn't set right. The first shop may have you run Rich already and the temp changes made it worst.

why go from Utec to SS? Vinny seem to be a nice guy but I just dont get it why he prefer the SS or even the standard TN reflash over Utec...

 

I would like to see that gt35r mounted need pic's. Want to swap my turbo been looking for awhile now. And Yea Utec Blows the SS box out of the water...

 

vinny cant tune a utec from what i hear

 

The only problem with TN and Utec is that TN air intake temp really get high. This can be a problem on a very hot summer days were intake temp can go above 70C. Utec temp compensatio is limited to 60-70C and if your temp go above that then you will end up with a richer A/F.
Well, if my AIT is above 70C then you won't see me boosting anyways...

 

I just want 450whp on stock block till I get the bottom built and go POWERLAB. Maybe I try a retune with straight meth. I have noticed with the 50/50 mix I was injecting did a great job dropping AIT's.

 

I'm going to stop by his shop for the first time this Friday. I want to hear from him why he doesn't like Utec.One thing is for sure though, I won't dump my utec over the SS no matter what he say.. LOL I'm also curious about the Hydra so I'll ask him about it too.

I spoke to Vinny briefly today about raising my idle and he seem to be a cool guy.. He's a Pacquiao fan so in my book he is cool. If he was a Hatton fan then.I won't ever let him touch my car.

 

Vinny dosent like the Utec I guess, but the utec actually damaged my stock ecu. After we unplugged the utec and went to start the car it had no throttle response, maybe burnt out a driver. There has to be a reason why vinny dosent like the utec. There are many tuners out there that do not touch certain managment systems. and why does everyone knock split second boxes, they use them in new bmw 335, ferrari, lotus elise, acura nsx. So how is that not good enough for Nissans and there technology is up there. http://www.splitsec.com/

and it isnt a question of Can vinny tune because his work speaks for him.

And as for the air temp correction, when I got it tuned the tuner at performance said it was setup right and they said they did so many utecs, so they should know about that.

and when I tell them my car isn't running right , instead of saying come by and we will check it out, I get told that the tune was perfect and my exhaust is the problem and try and sell me parts.

All I wanted was a good tune, and good numbers and Viny provided me that with great service. Thats the bottom line. I got what I paid for.

 

Not to be a downer but.......Why do you give a crap about dyno numbers??? I haven't read yet how well you think the car performson the track, street, etc. Get your ride to a track and run it hard.....IMO a "seat of the pants" dyno is the way to go.

 

how are you measuring AITs while spraying? What aftermarket temp gauge are you using as the stock probe is in the MAF, and would not show any decrease in intake temps.

 

I won't get in a pissing match with you but i was there with you when you got the car tuned in the winter while there was still snow outside and they said to come in the spring for a re-tune. On Performance dyno (mustang dyno) I made 330whp and I made 360whp on a dyno-jet at another place. Just to show you that dyno-jet reads higher.

...... EDIT: and your numbers are also uncorrected on VTR's Dyno

 

I don't have a gauge do be sure. Can tell by smell and how my oil temps and water temps raise a bit more under boost then before.

When It was on the dyno with water/meth spraying at 10psi the AFR's dropped like a son of b!tch. Going with a more advanced kit next time to work with ems. Something that will pump straight meth. The snow kit is a standalone progressive system that's the only reason I gave it up.

The nozzle is after maf so your right on not seeing in decrease in AIT's on a log or trace.

 

The data is from the same dyno so it dosent mater what kind of dyno it is.

Vinnys dynojet verified the same hp as the mustang dyno you have acces to my dyno sheet there, pull it up and compare the hp and tq numbers and you will see that the dyno is corrected., so it isnt a matter of what kind of dyno, vinny still got me an increase of 52 tq and 56 hp, and we know that from the baseline run and then the run after the tune.
and they didnt tell me to come back in the spring,
also when i told them about the problem i was having with the car cutting out, instead of checking it out, they automatically stated the tune wassnt the problem and it was somethiing else.

And Cliff, your a cool guy, im not trying to get in a pissing match with you all I am doing is stating facts.

 

That explain part of it.. If he was tuned in the winter then he definitely need to make adjustment on the temp compensation table. The tuner/shop cannot replicate summer/spring temperature in the winter. The tuner should be able to gauge and at least put some "guestimate" # but it wont be spot on. Vice versa, if he was tuned in the middle of the summer then he need to make sure the temp compensation is set in the winter season. The only way to really set it is tune on that temp range. For example, I was tuned in early summer, so when the temp got colder in NY, I had to go out and do some minor tweaking. Every time the temp drop by 20F I made sure to do some logging to make sure my tune is still spot on. How can you tune for 0F if the temp outside is 90F? The only way is re-tune at that temp range.