Fixing A Rear Main Seal Leak
04-27-2009, 02:37 PM
#21
hate to say it, but its a huge pain in the *** to do it right.
i was lucky on all customer cars to never have a problem, but 3 in a row on my own personal car i have had an issue with. i replaced it twice in the last 3 years and now i just deal with it because i dont care to do it again until my next build.
each time on removal, i found that part of the rear seal folded over and tore. I was extremely extremely careful both times i replaced it to make sure that it didnt happen again, but somehow it did. i have a small trail of oil running down under my car that i pressure wash off every so often... its not bad enough to get my clutch wet or require me to add oil inbetween changes, so i just let it leak.
removing the upper pan with the engine in the car means taking out the steering rack and crossmember and supporting the engine from the top... its to the point of where i would rather just pull the engine if i were to do it inbetween rebuilds again.
i was lucky on all customer cars to never have a problem, but 3 in a row on my own personal car i have had an issue with. i replaced it twice in the last 3 years and now i just deal with it because i dont care to do it again until my next build.
each time on removal, i found that part of the rear seal folded over and tore. I was extremely extremely careful both times i replaced it to make sure that it didnt happen again, but somehow it did. i have a small trail of oil running down under my car that i pressure wash off every so often... its not bad enough to get my clutch wet or require me to add oil inbetween changes, so i just let it leak.
removing the upper pan with the engine in the car means taking out the steering rack and crossmember and supporting the engine from the top... its to the point of where i would rather just pull the engine if i were to do it inbetween rebuilds again.
04-27-2009, 03:28 PM
#23
ha, when i had to replace my upper pan, i had to do it twice bc of that leaking seal. extra RTV over the entire seal and not just the edges like in the FSM fixed it the 2nd time.
I was able to get the upper pan off in less than an hour the 2nd time around, all from under the car on jack stands.
the black seal goes down in the arc. you can see the oil in the middle of the arc where it was leaking and how I followed the FSM and only RTV'd the edges. full coverage the 2nd time and no leaks.
I was able to get the upper pan off in less than an hour the 2nd time around, all from under the car on jack stands.
the black seal goes down in the arc. you can see the oil in the middle of the arc where it was leaking and how I followed the FSM and only RTV'd the edges. full coverage the 2nd time and no leaks.
Last edited by str8dum1; 04-27-2009 at 03:35 PM.
04-27-2009, 07:32 PM
#24
My fresh built motor also had rear main seal leak.. Initially I had a very small leak, but it got worse and started to leave oil puddle overnight.. Also, it was leaking more when I drove hard. So, I ended up taking out the tranny and the upper oil pan to replace it.. Pain in the @$$ but it was worth it.
04-28-2009, 07:00 AM
#26
How did you discover it, did you look in the inspection port for the tranny and it was inside?, Mine was the upper pan leaking from the devil seal, if you do it the way the service manual tells you it will leak, I used a lot to make sure it would not leak the second time around.
Last edited by GreenGoblin; 04-28-2009 at 07:02 AM.
04-28-2009, 07:53 AM
#27
How did you discover it, did you look in the inspection port for the tranny and it was inside?, Mine was the upper pan leaking from the devil seal, if you do it the way the service manual tells you it will leak, I used a lot to make sure it would not leak the second time around.
04-29-2009, 05:19 PM
#32
On my end..... Japtrix still has to install and tune the F-CON. Due to a scheduling issue Japtrix was unable to start on the car when I driopped it off Monday.
I am upset I can't make it to the track too. That's another $375 out the window for a non refundable track deposit.
I am upset I can't make it to the track too. That's another $375 out the window for a non refundable track deposit.
04-29-2009, 05:31 PM
#33
WTF? why couldn't they spend the 3-4 hours out of 1 week to help you out? That sucks!!! Especially when I am sure you told them you were on a very tight schedule to begin with.
I know the feeling of money down the drain. But the good news is they had better make up for it with a slammin tune! Lets hope!!
I know the feeling of money down the drain. But the good news is they had better make up for it with a slammin tune! Lets hope!!
04-29-2009, 08:15 PM
#35
WTF? why couldn't they spend the 3-4 hours out of 1 week to help you out? That sucks!!! Especially when I am sure you told them you were on a very tight schedule to begin with.
I know the feeling of money down the drain. But the good news is they had better make up for it with a slammin tune! Lets hope!!
I know the feeling of money down the drain. But the good news is they had better make up for it with a slammin tune! Lets hope!!
08-19-2013, 08:56 PM
#36
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Hi Everyone! I'm new to the thread!
I'm attempting a rather challenging job (or so I think) for a newbie....I figure, if I have the tools, space, and patience I should be able to do the job....
I am trying to change the rear main seal on my 05 g35 6mt...I assume its the same as the 350z's, right???
Well, I know I have to drop the upper oil pan...took a while just to research and figure out what that is,lol...well, I have taken off all the bolts...So, do I have to remove it completely??? like take it out and place it on a table so I can clean it and put new RTV????
If I were to drop it just enough to slip the the new rear oil seal/casing....could I just tighten the bolts back up??? Or would the RTV on the upper need to be replaced??? It doesn't seem like something that can be done with the upper oil pan just hanging there....
I appreciate everyones help!
I'm attempting a rather challenging job (or so I think) for a newbie....I figure, if I have the tools, space, and patience I should be able to do the job....
I am trying to change the rear main seal on my 05 g35 6mt...I assume its the same as the 350z's, right???
Well, I know I have to drop the upper oil pan...took a while just to research and figure out what that is,lol...well, I have taken off all the bolts...So, do I have to remove it completely??? like take it out and place it on a table so I can clean it and put new RTV????
If I were to drop it just enough to slip the the new rear oil seal/casing....could I just tighten the bolts back up??? Or would the RTV on the upper need to be replaced??? It doesn't seem like something that can be done with the upper oil pan just hanging there....
I appreciate everyones help!
08-20-2013, 01:21 PM
#37
Registered User
you dont want to risk it, its too much work to go back in. take it all the way out and clean the block and pan and apply new RTV everywhere that is required.
should only take a hour to clean the old stuff off and prep the upper pan and block for fresh reseal.
should only take a hour to clean the old stuff off and prep the upper pan and block for fresh reseal.
08-20-2013, 01:23 PM
#38
Registered User
If you read my post from several years ago at the top of this page... the problem seems to be resolved. The buyer of my car changed the rear seal and improved the flow of the PCV system. So far, it hasnt leaked on him. We assume that excessive PCV pressure from a stock PCV system was blowing the rear seal out.
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