ok i have a vortech supercharger, kinetixssv, 3.12, ss box, and nothing else really special. i have been having problems with my idle being very rough for a while. the car used to run perfectly but had a high idle s.e.l. saying that the idle was higher than expected.. i did a throttle relearn to try to get rid of the code and thats when my problems started. ever since it idles terrible. the code went away but the idle jumps up and down between 650 and 1000 rpm like im revving it every second, and it stays steady like that. then when i pulled up to a stop light sometimes it would drop so low that the car would die. i got a ciper cable and bumped the idle up to 850rpm now it doesnt die but the idle still jumps up and down. i tried replacing the throttle body. replaced all gaskets including throttle body and lower plenum gasket. i have checked for vacuum leaks and have not found anything. vacuum gauge and boost seem to be normal. now the odd part, when i turn on either my ac, or my heater it idles perfect. doesnt jump, just nice and smooth right around 850-900rpm. it seems like my coolant has dropped a little bit over time in the reserve, but i dont see anything in the oil or any smoke at all. so i dont know where it could be going.. anyone have any new ideas for me to try? i feel like i am running out of ideas.. the only other thing i can think is maybe a head gasket?

 

Post your SS BOX AFR and Timing Files...

There are some Tricks with these Files to get it to Idle sooth and Start Easy every Time.

I have yet to see one so call Tuner, tune the SS BOX for Idle and Start Up.

(Of Course All the Mechanical Systems must be working correctly)

 

the gas pedal sensors go bad on these cars. you will rarely throw a code for it, but it can be the problem. I think you have to buy the whole gas pedal assembly as a whole and swap it out.

 

it actually needs to be retuned it is running really rich and was tuned for a smaller pulley( i was told for 2.62 at sea level, i am running the 3.12 at a mile above sea level), could it be something in the tune causing the idle to be that rough? i was holding off on the retune until i make sure everything else is good.. i would hate to pay for a tune then find out the problem was elsewhere and have to get it tuned again after trying something else.. by the way this is a non revup kit

 

U left this info out of your original post.......

The pulley Size would not effect the TUNE at Start up or Idle, but would effect it in Boost.

Being @ 5280 ft ASL would effect all aspects of the Tune... This is why your cars Idle is Poor if everything else is working correctly.

What are the Values in your AFR MAP in Vac?

 

get a tune, jesus come on...thats what keeps the car safe and together....check for vacuum leaks and stuff too, could cause th idle to jump around

 

this may be stupid but did you check the ground wire on the SS box. And make sure all your wiring is good and tight connections. And like TXF said make sure you have no leaks.

 

i have not checked the afr from the ss box yet i will try to get some data logs this weekend to post up.. my wideband reads between 14.5 and 15.5 at idle though im not sure how accurate that is.. my vacuum usually reads between 18 and 20 lbs at idle.and doesnt seem to change any when the idle is rough.. i have the aem uego not sure if it is normal but sometimes when i come to a stop or if i rev the engine the a/f goes up to like 18 or so then drops back to 14/15 and sometimes it will go down to 10 and back up.. it seems really finicky.. is that normal.. looks like im going to be getting a tune and going from there..

 

I'm having same issue with utec. I finally got a video, havnt chance to upload it. I'm pretty much think it is something to do with temp setup.

 

When u get a chance change out ur sensor. When u rev up, a/f should drop. But can not trust a/f gauge tho.

 

If he has vacuum leak, I'm pretty sure his a/f will jump around too.

 

sorry i wasnt very clear about this i meant if i blip the throttle up to maybe 2500rpm then let off when it drops back to idle the a/f just kinda seems to be all over i was thinking it is a bad sensor. im not really worried about this mainly the idle jumping..

when i rev up while driving and get into boost the a/f does drop steadly as it should..

 

this is/was a common problem with f.i. cars. one fix was to drill a small 1/8 inch hole in the throttle body plate. this allows metered air into engine. do a search way back to 2006 or 2007. i did this on my tt g35 & it worked like a charm

 

oh and one more question.. if i do get it tuned and there turns out to be a vacuum leak will it need to be retuned once the vacuum leak is fixed?

 

Delete

 

I remember read things about that.. I might go ahead research that tonigt.

Thanks

 

tried this saw no difference..

 

Then only way solve ur problem is take it to local tuner if you can. I found a local tuner, I will ask him see if he can adjust my utec little bit, damm cars are very senstive lol.

 

At idle, the stock ECU is in control. You can scale to some degree in column 0, but idling problems are most likely something else. you are seeing a solid -20mmHg at idle right?

erratic idle is often a vacuum leak. And yes, if you tune with a leak, you'll need to be retuned after its fixed. A vacuum leak also means a boost leak, and who knows how much more boost you might pick up after repair.

 

Fixed my previous my post. It does make sense about leak/tune.

But about the leak/idle, is possible can happen with intake hose line?

mine is hard to understand just causibg by stock ecu, when temp is around 60degree it runs fine. Mines bumpping hela crazy today..
I thought utec can automatic read temp control.


Op, I will post my video when I get home. Could you watch see if urs like that?