Where do you get T-band clamps?

 

I got mine on ebay and haven't had a problem. Paid something like $25 for 10 of them.

 

I've had my coupler blow off about 3 times, I really need to switch to t clamps!

 

Anyone any idea y I got p0300 code? This is going more stress now...well I read it is very common code for fi

 

I've never seen that code on my car, but check this thread here ... it may be gasket related.

https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance...o300-code.html

 

Oh, and I forgot to mention. Welcome to the land of FI. Where any day without a problem, minor annoyance or SES light is a glorious one.

Keep your wallet open

 

lol This is sooooo true dave.

I don't really get this why this code throw. My idle was really really rough before i made a pull and even after but i thought it just normal cuz it used to be rought at hot days...lol i don't know if it is related to fuel...hope not...damm i didn't even get to enjoy the car and everyday problem lol

 

Thanks for the link, but do you think it is safe to just drive untill i get a tune? i was thinking about remove the cog belt today and put 2.87 and drive untill tune day...

Edit: oh btw, looks like i'm getting rich after got that code...Now AF shows it goes down easily than before threw that code.

 

If you idle was rought just before throwing that code, you have something wrong. It's cheaper to replace the gaskets first, then look into the coil packs.

Based on your comment about running rich, I think you should also pull your plugs and check them, could be something as simple as a fouled out plug (in which even, you'll need to figure out why).

I'm not sure I'd drive it too much if you're seeing stumbling issues, you could exacerbate the problem and cause yourself more headaches.

FWIW, my idle is NEVER rough once the car is warmed up. It fluctuates slightly by about 100-200RPM prior to that, but it's always been that way.

 

Like you can see from my idle data log file ( i even posted video on other thread ). RPMs goes up and down little bit sometimes it gets worst. Sometimes it's fine... I sent that data log file and video to hal but didn't get any clear answer/opinion from him

I've had rough idle most of time when weather gets hot. And i thought i fixed it but did not. So yesterday i didn't really think serious about rough idle...I'm thinking to stop by cobb today see if they can try boost leak also see if they have a T-clamps.

I need to fix this problems before retune day which next week...I just don't know where should i start from...

 

If you're taking the car to COBB, just have them take a look at it.

Otherwise, I'd take a look at the following things (in this order):
1. Replace crap clamps with good T-Bolt clamps to fix the boost leak problem
a. Inspect couplers, pipes, etc for holes or cracks
2. Check spark plugs for what's happening internally
3. Replace intake manifold gaskets (assuming you've had this off before)
4. Inspect coil packs per the service manual for proper operation

Good luck, feel free to give me a call if you hit any major snags.

 

Too bad they doesn't have T-bolt clamps in stock. But i did schedule for boost leak test tommorow..they charge not much than other shop i did before so why not...

Thanks for the check list, i will see from boost leak test ( i don't really feel like it is but i will go ahead do it.). I just went tight up all clamps...everything looks tight enough ( intercooler couplers looks really tight), but i tighted it more ( opps couple clamps made pop sounds haha but still holding tho).
Deleted CEL light using a code reader, i will see if it comes up again. If it comes up i think something going not right for sure...

Thanks again dave

 

Sounds to me like your leak only makes itself known under boost. With that being said, it may not be obvious from a visual inspection that something is wrong.

 

I really think it is nothing to do boost...i don't know. So i went out side took a full throttle runs

Here is few, i didn't get a hiccups. last pulls seems i was feel weird at 5000rpms so i did switch gear...

Not a perfect run, but i saw boost gauge move...

Still boost leak guys? btw how do i read if i'm on boost on data log?

 

Looks like no boost leak or belt slip. You do have quite a bit of knock in the second log. Might want to add a little fuel in those cells or take away so timing. If you have room try a 4th gear pull and see how it logs, so we can compare.

Edit: I was just looking again at 2nd log looks like it knocked when you let off the gas.

 

I'd start by pulling a couple degrees of timing in those spots, you have a few places where it logged some knock.

Your third pull looks ok at a glance, we need you to drive through that weird spot so we can see the log.

Also, if I'm reading that log correctly, you never go 100% WOT either.

 

You are right. I went WOT mid RPMS range but i slowly let it go + switch gear, i didn't want to push boost untill 6000rpms since i do not know excatly my car is safe tune or what. I just figured that just get on boost is enough to see if i'm getting a boost leak, that is biggest point i ran that pulls.

So now what...what i know is knock isn't good sign tho

 

On the knock subject ... it's minimal, but should be addressed at the end of the day. Overall, it doesn't look bad - but that's really my interpretation without a wideband reading to go along with your log

What you need to do is log a WOT run, that's what we really need to see. Preferably in 4th gear if you have a safe place to do it.

 

thats one thing great about the utec it pulls timing when it picks up knock. Dont worry ur motor is not going to blow. Sometimes 1 knock count is just engine noise. I dont know were your knock threshold is set at.

I would like to see a 4th gear pull if possible it will tell us more.

 

Gotcha, sounds good. i might can try that tonight.