i would at minimum have vortech check where the bearing sits to make sure its not out of round. like quamen said, that many failures could be a combo of imperfect housings and abuse/out of spec use.

i'd prolly just send it back to vortech and xplain the situation. going down the path of doin your own bearings and seals could be worse

 

good point, but I've already decided to do this myself

 

FYI - I found a bearing manufacturer that's actually in Houston (GMN). They make a 15 degree angular contact bearing with a peek cage and 65k RPM for $95/each

 

Nothing taken personally bro.

My advice would be to not only add a oil cooler but to also check the oil supply line. A clogged oil line could easily be limiting the amount of oil that goes to your supercharger and causing premature bearing wear from increased heat.

I would also take a look at the oil viscosity you are using and bounce it off of someone like Frank at Vortech. You may not have to most optimum oil for the rpm's your blower is seeing.

I see those three things, oil cooler, verification that the supply line is unrestricted and the correct oil for your speeds, as being the key components to sucess on your setup. You could even create a self-contained system if you wanted like what Rotrex uses. You would obviously have to buy an expensive pump and make the reservior, but it would help if heat is in fact what is killing the bearings.

 

I started using Mobil 1 0w-40 after the last failure http://www.mobil.com/Canada-English/...il_1_0W-40.asp

 

what does CYA mean?

 

cover your a!s. good luck with the rebuild.

 

im considering picking up a vortech charger. im NOT planning on making a ridiculous amount of power since im running it on a stock block, should i be concerned with the bearings still?

 

yes you should

 

I Rebuilt the S/C and installed the 25 row oil cooler. Keeping the RPMs below 6600. I decided to go with the Rotella T synthetic 5w-40 oil. I am seeing 240 degrees peak for a few minutes while full throttle. After I back off it will quickly go back to 230 and say anywhere from 190-230 during normal driving - mix of open hwy and stop and go traffic.

Is 240 degrees as a peak still too high?

I gained 1lb of boost after the rebuild I was never able to get above 10lbs, even in the colder weather previously. In the muggy hot humid weather now I gained 1lb! Could have been a loose clamp somewhere or leak.

 

What bearings did you end up using?

 

GNM Bearings with a peek cage. I can get you the exact part number if you like. I will need to find my invoice.

here are the specifications - GNM Angular Contact Bearing 6003 C TXM A7 UL (15 degree contact , Peek cage, abec 7, light preload)

rated for 65k RPM and 482 degrees farenheit

I will get the exact part and post it...I paid $95 for each one

 

Unfortunately we won't know how much of any improvement they are until you get some good mileage on the car.

At least you are doing something different to fix the problem vs. rebuilding with the same parts, that will eventually fail again.

Keeping it at 6,600 is a good idea, but won't really tell us if these bearings made a difference if you do rev it as high as you used too, but I can understand not wanting to rebuild again - R&D is expensive

Condos for going on this venture for the community.

-George
GT Motorsports

 

How much did you spend on rebuilding the blower if you don't mind me asking? (Figure other Vortech users would like to know as well what this upgrade will set them back)

-George
GT Motorsports

 

+1^ I wish there was a thread on how to take the blower apart... I need to do mine this weekend =( Ill probably end up sending it to superchargerrebuilds

 

Around $300 for the bearings and I'm guessing about $20 for the oil shaft seal... as for the inner seal I'm curious to how he replaced that? although vortech will replace all bearings and all seals for $380 and they do the work, while checking the condition of the blower for you.... plus you do need some special tools to get the whole blower apart to replace the bearings.... it seems that it would be more cost effective to just let Vortech handle it...

 

He didn't reuse the OEM Vortech bearings, his are upgraded - did you read the thread?

 

don't worry george, I won't be keeping at 6600 for much longer Getting my NT05s tomorrow and taking it to the strip Friday night! We shall see what happens...

GMN Part # S6003-CTXM ABECC7

rebuild cost me about ~$230.00

 

I didn't replace the impeller seal - it was replaced not too long ago and there is nothing special about it, just that it has a rubber cover/gasket/seal thing on the impeller side.

Only special tool you need for the whole job is a press.

 

That's $380 + shipping + insurance and being without it for 2-3 weeks. Rebuilding the S/C yourself isn't for everyone, but for me I had fun and learned lots!